The Fliptendo (Noldtendo 4-LAYER Edition)

Oct 27, 2022
On March 30th, I stepped into territory I had never faced before. Everyone always wants to build a portable Wii or a micro. But, not everyone has what they need for it.

The original Noldtendo was released August 26th, 2020. It is one of the most well known 6-LAYER Wii projects. It's even viewed as one of the best beginner projects due to its low-cost, low-risk, and slightly easier to assemble wiring. Here's the issue, not everyone has a 6-LAYER Wii. If your Wii is any color BUT white, or is a family edition, it has a 4-LAYER form factor. However, the Noldtendo can only fit a 6-LAYER due to how the nand chip is located. It sticks out much more on a 4-LAYER Wii. I found this out the hard way, as I wanted to build a Noldtendo. I had a spare 6-LAYER, I absolutely could have.

But I said F*** it and decided to redesign the case from the ground up.

This is the Fliptendo.

Featuring real Wii hardware, this tiny box fits perfectly in any entertainment center design you see fit. Featuring four Gamecube controller ports, Bluetooth, a sensor bar port, and the original AV out, you won't need much to get this thing up and running. The best part? You can power it with a USB-C cable.


If you're one of the many people who have gotten U-GREEN ads, ANKER ads, any one of their stations can power this puppy.

All you need to print are NINE parts. Four of which are just the feet, which you can easily replace with stick on feet too.

However, to build this, you'll need the following:

Top Shell
Bottom Shell
Button Bracket
(dependant on what buttons you use's length) 2x Button Fillers
4x Feet *can be printed or made seperately*

Stuff you have lying around or tools:
A decent temperature controlled soldering iron. I recommend the PINECIL V2. Great for hobbyists, small, USB-C powered, love it.
22AWG Stranded wire. I used solid core, but I recommend against it unless you want people making fun of you *kidding*
34 or 38 AWG Magnet wire. I used 38, I'd recommend 34 to help stick to the traces for the Bluetooth wiring.
Solder *duh*
PLENTY of flux. Don't cheap out on flux either.
Dremel with a diamond disc cutting bit
Sandpaper *100-1000 grit*
Painters tape. Use it to mask your outline out, and keep fiberglass from getting inside chips.
Screws from your Wii. You will need 6 long silver screws, and 10 small silver screws. *14 if you use the included feet*
Optional: Hot air soldering station, helpful for the U10 relocation, plus removing the bulky GC memory card slots.
Optional: Magnification. EXTREMELY helpful for trace and via wiring, but not entirely needed.

And in terms of the money you'll have to spend:
USB-C Breakout Board *you can use seperate ones, but this fits in the cubby made for it perfectly*
11-12mm Powerswitch *doesn't specifically need to be this one, plus I recommend getting a slightly smaller one to help with the final assembaly* Amazon productAn RVL-PSU. Unfortunately, Gadget has stopped selling them on his Etsy shop as of writing. Fortunately, it's now open source!
Two Tact Buttons. *again, doesn't exactly matter which type as long as they have these type of pins and size, button length is irrelevant* Amazon productAnd of course, a Wii! The cool thing about this Miicro, is that it can fit a 4 OR 6 layer Wii. Just know, the tolerances are EXTREMELY tight with a 4-LAYER. Speaking of, how the hell do you cut it out? This is how!

OMGWTFLIP Bottom.jpg


As always, trim OUTSIDE the given line, THEN sand inward. Work your way up from 100 grit to 1000 grit. Did I do it that way? Nope! (sorry Gadget)
Overall, there were six revisions, five of which were actually printed, four of which remain intact. One of them questions if I really understand physics....


Each of them had major flaws. However, in the end, it all fits snuggly together.

CrazyGadget: Created the RVL-Plus, helped me finalize trim lines, power wiring, sent U10's to help save the project, helped with resistance charting, and overall was a main mentor for this project.
Thommothy + YveltalGriffin: Helped pick out a USB C board for the project, helped make sure I didn't go bezerk during this project.
Stitches: Offered to test fitments.
Y2K + Wrental + Voultar: Helped with soldering techniques so I didn't ruin my entire build.
ShankMods: Telling me to finish my project.

Lastly but certainly not least: NOLD!
If it wasn't for Nold's original build being open source, none of this would be possible. I cannot tell you the amount of times I referenced his original shell for measurements, screwholes, and even what screws go where. Thank you @Nold for being awesome.

Every single file will be open source. I want EVERYONE to be able to enjoy and make this project. If you do end up making one, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tag me in it. I'd love to see atleast one other person beside me make one of these.

If you care to read the original discussion and see more behind the scenes images, read the original thread here
Thingiverse Mirror:

Thanks for reading :)

Edit: Noticed a flaw in the case logo. Fixed it.


Last edited:


2 and a Half Dollarydoos
Staff member
Feb 5, 2017
Banana Bender Land, Australia
Excellent to see this all come together! Well done!