Question Some questions from a noob.

Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
Hi, I've been doing some research over the last few weeks and still have a few things that I hope maybe some of you can answer for me. I've done a lot of reading and I don't believe these questions have been answered elsewhere, but please excuse me if they have and I missed them.

This is my first post after a little bit of lurking, so nice to meet you all and thanks in advance for any help you may offer.


For my build I have decided I want to retain the full funtionality of the console as well a making it handheld. So I am keeping the original 4 controller ports and the TV out.

1) I am going to RGB mod the console so I can use it with my SNES setup, which runs from scart to a YUV converter, to HDTV. Does this mean I can then connect to an RGB compatible TFT and get an RGB picture without any other modification or added components? Or am I stuck with composite?

2) Is it easy enough to relocate the AV out port? I really want to keep it, but it protrudes a good 25mm off the top of the board. I'm thinking I can just break it off and solder wire between the motherboard pins and the 12 metal strips on the av out. Is it that straight forward? If this is possible is there a maximum wire length I need to take into consideration so there are no picture or sound issues?

3) To save space I am thinking I can move the controller ports up the motherboard (11mm or so), by running wires from board to the backs of the controller and cutting off much of the excess. Will this work?

Here's a few mockups of how I think I could procede, again input is appreciated.

A) With the adjustments I mention in my questions.


B) Similar but with some trimming to the board. Would this effect the RGB output or is it just a case of wiring to elsewhere on the board.


C) Even more trimming, plus the cartrige slot is bent at 90degrees to save more space. With the original AV and power pins removed, is there a guide to where alternative connections can be made?
 
Last edited:

YveltalGriffin

First Wii U Trimmer
.
Joined
Jun 7, 2016
Messages
303
Likes
1,106
Location
South Florida
Portables
5
Hi, and welcome to BitBuilt! Let's see if I can clarify some things for you.

Some screens do accept regular 240p RGB with composite sync. I know that certain Dalian Good Display brand modules accept it. Those are expensive, though, so you'll need to find a datasheet or ask around if you have a specific screen in mind.

As for the relocations, as long as things are continuous and you haven't cut important traces on the board, you're totally fine. It looks like you're just trimming ground plane, so that won't affect RGB. There are some great guides floating around on trimming, as well as power relocation for the 3.3V line, etc. Try using a multimeter with an audible continuity sensor to trace the power lines, if you feel so inclined.

I would recommend desoldering the AV Port completely if you're planning on reinstalling it. Too much force on the pins can pull them out of the back of the connector and that's not something you can fix easily.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
Thanks for the reply! So I need to find a screen that takes 320x240? All of the 5/5.6" ones I've seen only list 640x480, even the ones made by Dalian Good Display.
 

Stitches

2 and a Half Dollarydoos
Staff member
.
.
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
3,817
Likes
3,011
Location
Banana Bender Land, Australia
Portables
6
Thanks for the reply! So I need to find a screen that takes 320x240? All of the 5/5.6" ones I've seen only list 640x480, even the ones made by Dalian Good Display.
That's the maximum displayable resolution of the screen. Anything lower will work fine, it'll just scale up.
 

JoJo

.
Joined
Oct 19, 2016
Messages
41
Likes
85
For my build I have decided I want to retain the full functionality of the console as well a making it handheld. So I am keeping the original 4 controller ports and the TV out.
Ambiguous plans, but I like it! My current N64p will still be my home console also. If it makes more sense for your build, a detached "hub" could be used to still have full functionality of the system while keeping the portable itself free of unsightly ports and plugs. (Essentially relocating all the user friendly ports to an external/optional location)

Downing has done a supreme job of this using HDMI ports as seen in his Work log here. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/downings-latest-n64p-commission-hesline-64.479/

There are just suggestions of course, you can go about this any way you please.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
That's the maximum displayable resolution of the screen. Anything lower will work fine, it'll just scale up.
Good to know, thanks.

I know for a fact the 5.6" Dalian LCD takes RGB. The 5-incher probably does also.
According to the specs it does.

Ambiguous plans, but I like it! My current N64p will still be my home console also. If it makes more sense for your build, a detached "hub" could be used to still have full functionality of the system while keeping the portable itself free of unsightly ports and plugs. (Essentially relocating all the user friendly ports to an external/optional location)

Downing has done a supreme job of this using HDMI ports as seen in his Work log here. https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/downings-latest-n64p-commission-hesline-64.479/

There are just suggestions of course, you can go about this any way you please.
He's done a great job on that portable, but I don't think the breakout box route is for me. I want to have everything contained in one unit.


I've been looking at this board trimming guide, https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/trimming-your-n64-revs-1-4.52/
It has info on how to relocate the power and AV for composite.

As I want to go with RGB, would it make sense to connect the internal screen and sound direct to the chips on the front of the motherboard? Then for the external AV connect from the R8, R9, R10 on the back of the motherboard direct to the pins on the av out?

Also, is it alright to connect to any part of the metal contact on the AV out? If I can do that I should be able to make it half it's original length.
 

YveltalGriffin

First Wii U Trimmer
.
Joined
Jun 7, 2016
Messages
303
Likes
1,106
Location
South Florida
Portables
5
Yes, connecting things directly will be necessary. I imagine you'll still need an RGB amp, unless the LCD can work with the unboosted signals straight from the N64. Same with the AV port; you'll definitely need an amp to get a good picture on an external TV.

You're fine soldering to the pins further up on the connector. What's your plan for batteries?
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
I have some parts on order to make the RGB amp. Unfortunately with it being National Day holiday here in China, all the mail is backed up, so I'm still waiting for them. Good to know I need to go from the amp to the TFT as well as the AV port. Is running 2 wires from each of the resistors connected to the amp ok? One to the AV and one to the TFT.

I'm not sure for batteries yet. Whether to go with flat rectangular ones or rounded ones I haven't decided. I think it might be better to use the cel type and have them on the sides, which will mean I can go a bit slimmer on the case. I've also seen people mention trying to not buy batteries from China. Since that's where I'll have to get them from, I'm going to have to be careful that they're true to spec.
 
Last edited:

YveltalGriffin

First Wii U Trimmer
.
Joined
Jun 7, 2016
Messages
303
Likes
1,106
Location
South Florida
Portables
5
I'd be concerned about the amp not being able to drive both the LCD and an external monitor. That happens with composite video sometimes. You could always turn the internal screen off with a switch if you wanted to.

I personally really like lithium polymer batteries, but it all comes down to your case design.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
I'd be concerned about the amp not being able to drive both the LCD and an external monitor. That happens with composite video sometimes. You could always turn the internal screen off with a switch if you wanted to.

I personally really like lithium polymer batteries, but it all comes down to your case design.
I'd prefer to be able to switch the screen off anyway when it's being used plugged into a TV, so if that will save any issues with the amp then I'll be sure to include a off switch.

I've been thinking a lot about the case, and I am leaning towards modding a WII-U controller case. I saw one modded by Bungle which I really like. I can get an empty shell to mod pretty inexpensively, and I think with some modification, there should be space on the back to add all 4 controller ports.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
I've slowly been putting together all of the resources I need for my portable. I have some last bits I'm waiting for from the US, so I can get things moving soon.

I was wondering if anyone has info on connecting to a ZJ050NA-08C via RGB? The screen has composite and VGA. If I connect to the RGB on the VGA, what do I use for sync? There are luma and csync out on the the N64, but the VGA has horizontal/ vertical sync in. DO I need some sort of converter?
 

Stitches

2 and a Half Dollarydoos
Staff member
.
.
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
3,817
Likes
3,011
Location
Banana Bender Land, Australia
Portables
6
I've slowly been putting together all of the resources I need for my portable. I have some last bits I'm waiting for from the US, so I can get things moving soon.

I was wondering if anyone has info on connecting to a ZJ050NA-08C via RGB? The screen has composite and VGA. If I connect to the RGB on the VGA, what do I use for sync? There are luma and csync out on the the N64, but the VGA has horizontal/ vertical sync in. DO I need some sort of converter?
Yes, you would need a sync separator or an UltraVGA.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
Looks like ultraVGA is out of the question right now. I did some googling and found the LM1881N mentioned in a few places.




The second pinout doesn't have a hsync out on it.Any idea which of the 2 is correct?
 
Last edited:

Stitches

2 and a Half Dollarydoos
Staff member
.
.
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
3,817
Likes
3,011
Location
Banana Bender Land, Australia
Portables
6
I also found some mention of this here: http://bitfixgaming.boards.net/thread/332/n64-snes-rgb-confusing

Regarding the LM1881N it says "that will get your sync, but then its only 480i 15khz".

Does anyone know if the ZJ050NA-08C will accept this as an input?
Depends on the driver board you're using with it. The KYV-N2 V1 board definitely does, so does the board Dalian Good Display ships with theirs. What board are you using/planning to use?
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
I believe it's a UT-MD07080. V.3. The only number on the listing is AT050TN22 V.1, but in hand, the board has the UT number printed on it. You'll have to forgivve me, I bought it from taobao, so the listing is in Chinese.
 

Stitches

2 and a Half Dollarydoos
Staff member
.
.
Joined
Feb 5, 2017
Messages
3,817
Likes
3,011
Location
Banana Bender Land, Australia
Portables
6
I believe it's a UT-MD07080. V.3. The only number on the listing is AT050TN22 V.1, but in hand, the board has the UT number printed on it. You'll have to forgivve me, I bought it from taobao, so the listing is in Chinese.
I couldn't find any mention of it accepting 15KHz, but that's never on datasheets or listings. Unless someone here has tried one before, the only way to find out is to give the board interlaced VGA and see if it works.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
I've not got any other device capable of 480i over vga right now, so I'll have to wait until I have all of my components here and just give it a go. If it doesn't work then I'll grab the driver board you mentioned. Thanks for the assistance.
 
Top