Solved RVL-PMS 2; some rails giving off wrong voltage

[Mar0nat0r]

Hey! so I've been working on my first portable for a while now and I've almost completed everything. When I was trying to fix the audio yesterday though, I was able to get it fixed but after I powered down the console, I wasn't able to get the wii to turn on anymore. at first I thought it was something to do with the video wire since my screen turned on but didn't show a picture so I tried to fix that but now after examining everything more, I think there is something wrong with my power board. All the volatges from the power rails are showing around the volatge they are supposed to be giving off except for my 1.8v rail which is giving off 130mV and my 3.3v rail which is giving of 3.06v. On top of that, I've given it a good look over and I can't see any obvious shorts or burn marks on the board. Does anyone know what might be wrong with the board and if its fixable (I have a spare broken one from before that I can use for parts)?

 

[Gman]

May be obvious, but is the battery charged? This is sign of voltage drop could be from too thin wires, battery not charged, or a short. Fix the issue, the pms could be fine perhaps.

 

[Mar0nat0r]

May be obvious, but is the battery charged? This is sign of voltage drop could be from too thin wires, battery not charged, or a short. Fix the issue, the pms could be fine perhaps.

Ok thanks for the advice. I charged the batteries up a little bit but, nothing happened still. I'll make sure to go over the board again though and see if there are any shorts to get rid of that I didn't see before.

 

[RoseDagger]

I charged the batteries up a little bit but, nothing happened still.

What is a little? Check the battery voltage when nothing is connected/on and make sure the battery is above 3.7V, preferably more like 4 - 4.2V. I ran into a similar issue when my battery was low and my wires were too thin, making the voltage drop worse. I used a relatively weak charger that I was not afraid of toasting, and it took a really long time before I reached normal operating voltages again, and the wii could boot reliably. So check the actual battery state and not the time spent charging.

 

[Mar0nat0r]

What is a little? Check the battery voltage when nothing is connected/on and make sure the battery is above 3.7V, preferably more like 4 - 4.2V. I ran into a similar issue when my battery was low and my wires were too thin, making the voltage drop worse. I used a relatively weak charger that I was not afraid of toasting, and it took a really long time before I reached normal operating voltages again, and the wii could boot reliably. So check the actual battery state and not the time spent charging.

Ok thanks for letting me know! When I checked my batteries it was ~3.5v so I'll leave it on the charger over night and see if that helps.

 

[Stitches]

photos of all wiring pls

 

[Mar0nat0r]

photos of all wiring pls

OK here are the pics of the board. I charged the batteries more yesterday and that didn't help but I think I have pinpointed the problem. After charging the batteries more and checking voltages again, all the rails this time were outputting the right voltage except again for the 1.8v rail (which was supplying something like 153mV . I think this rail in particular wasn't working because when I was trying to figure out why the audio wasn't working a few nights back, the wire to the digital supply popped off the 1.8v rail so I soldered it back on after I unplugged the battery to fix it. What I didn't realize though is that I got some solder on one of the resistors that was right next to the 1.8v pad which may have caused a short. So I've been trying to see if I can just figure out if any of the resistors are actually broken and then replace those ones that are to get the right voltage again. The problem is that when I measure their resistance, my multi-meter can't keep a solid reading despite the batteries not being plugged in.

If this isn't the problem though, maybe its because I acidentially desoldered two of the resistors to the video/audio chip that's on the wii along with breaking off a pin to it and bending some others? I fixed one of the resistors but haven't soldered the other one back on yet. Also, idk if its supposed to happen but the nand chip get so hot that it hurts to touch and the audio/video chip gets warm as well. I'm just now realizing that I probably should have said all of this from the get go and sorry about that. But that is now all the information I have that could be relevant to this problem now so I hope this helps.

 

[RoseDagger]

You have the LDO still on, (the big chip between where you soldered 3.3v and 1.8v) The LDO supplies 1.8v itself from the 3.3v input, so either you have to remove the 1.8v wire you have added letting the LDO do its job, or you remove the LDO and supply the 1.8v from the PMS. You cant have both at once. This is likely your main problem I think.

The broken pin on the AVE is for analog left, if you are using the u-amp, this should not be an issue as far as I know, and the missing resistor is for composite video, so as long as you are using another video signal like component or VGA it should be fine. Just make sure it is not shorted.

As for the nand and ave heating up, smarter more experience people will have to point out what to expect there, though I assume that it is the voltage problem from the LDO + 1.8v wire. And more experienced people will have to tell you if there is something else that could be wrong.

 

[Mar0nat0r]

Ok thank you for telling me! I will fix these issues and let y'all know if that fixes it

 

[Mar0nat0r]

OMG I got it to turn on again, Thank you so much RoseDagger for the advice! It was totally the LDO and when I removed it, everything turns on and works again. All I have to do now is fix my audio and figure out how to switch to vga and everything will be finished. Again thank you all for the help!