Worklog PS2p: 3 years Hiatus... Comeback!

[cfc_12]

It just looks a little weird because the fan is backwards compared to how most people would do it (blowing through the heatsink instead of away from it), and sony put it at a wonky looking angle

so what do you suggest me to do then?

 

[cheese]

so what do you suggest me to do then?

Just looking from the picture makes it seem like you just threw the fan on without really attaching it or putting much thought in, but if it's the stock setup, you're fine as is

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

It just looks a little weird because the fan is backwards compared to how most people would do it (blowing through the heatsink instead of away from it), and sony put it at a wonky looking angle

It doesn't look screwed down, stock 7900x fan blows air over the heat sink and is the only way to mount on the frame afaik.

This is a dead board, do not remove the CXD3098 or the oscillator

View attachment 3833

This point does turn on the console but doesn't cause a reboot and you can't power down with it by the way.

 

[cfc_12]

Just looking from the picture makes it seem like you just threw the fan on without really attaching it or putting much thought in, but if it's the stock setup, you're fine as is

ahh the screws I see.

Don't worry, I'm gonna screw it down once its finalized. I'm still using the original screw from the PS2.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

Looks like either a dodgy connection somewhere or not enough current getting to the screen.

 

[cfc_12]

i just followed this

but instead of 10V electrolytic capacitor, I used 16V electrolytic capacitor because there's no stock of 10v here in electronics stores.

Will that affect it?

 

[darkwing]

Good timing, I receive my batch of LM1881N yesterday and was going to try to wire one tomorrow.
Do you have both capacitor? First one on the Composite input and the other one on the RSET along with the 680k resitor.
Also don't worry about the the capacitor on the RGB line as they should already be on the board (assuming it was only a basic trim)

And having 16v instead of 10v shouldn't affect the outcome as long as the capacitor voltage is higher then the line.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

but instead of 10V electrolytic capacitor, I used 16V electrolytic capacitor because there's no stock of 10v here in electronics stores.

As long as it has the same capacity, should be fine. The voltage rating is a Max value i think.

 

[cfc_12]

Do you have both capacitor? First one on the Composite input and the other one on the RSET along with the 680k resitor.
Also don't worry about the the capacitor on the RGB line as they should already be on the board (assuming it was only a basic trim)

Yes there's two capacitor.

Have you seen the two video that I post above?

I was wondering why it keeps on blinking

Could it be maybe it's because the screen needs 31khz while the PS2 only outputs 15.1 khz on Horizontal sync?

 

[darkwing]

Hard to say, could be a range of things.
Have you double check the connections and tested the screen to see how much current it needs?
What I can do on my side is wire mine tomorrow on the Dalian screen and see if it works.

If it does then it would mean that either the screen or the way it is wire is playing up on your side and if it doesn't the it could be the sync splitter.

 

[Dave Mackintosh]

Also, what country is the motherboard? NTSC, PAL, etc?

 

[cfc_12]

I'm not sure but it's a 79002

 

[cfc_12]

Also, what country is the motherboard? NTSC, PAL, etc?

does it mean that you have tried the LM1881N method on your screen and it doesn't work for you?

which means as in totally no video output?

or is it just like mine that keeps on blinking?

 

[darkwing]

That would be an Aus model, so PAL. That's the one I have on my side

Edit: Also you could try to connect the composite line to the screen. If it works it would mean that the screen is not under powered at least. Assuming the screen as a Video port

 

[Gman]

i just followed this

View attachment 4323

but instead of 10V electrolytic capacitor, I used 16V electrolytic capacitor because there's no stock of 10v here in electronics stores.

Will that affect it?

Try splitting the S-video Y signal on pin 5 of the AV port instead of the composite video signal. The screen might be turning off because it is not syncing.

 

[Gman]

I tried the S-video Y signal and its almost just the same with the Composite signal


Should I try to remove the 0.1uf capacitor?

What does a capacitor do anyway to the screen?

The capacitor on the signal input is for coupling to block any DC component of the signal. It's important. It's hard to say what's wrong, could be your soldering or wiring. But in my experiences, if the screen is not compatible with an interlaced signal, it won't display anything at all. I'd recommend just using the sync output from the ps2, you can trace it back to wire it to the vias. This circuit is just over complicating it.

 

[cfc_12]

Good News

I made VGA appear twice by poking the two holes based on the picture above, sadly, on the third time, it didn't happen anymore.

 

[Bakuku]

I had a similair issue when hardwiring my psone lcd to my psone console. It had something to do with the wiring ans sync.

Just make sure that whatever you’re using for sync is isolated from the rest and do use the video ground signal that is provided on the plug. There should be one there. Check the AV plug pinout.

 

[darkwing]

I manage to get some time to play with this yesterday and I can replicate the same issue. the screen goes on and loss sync after a few sec and goes back on.

My guess so far is that it could be due to the sync output. Based on the datasheet the LM1881M board output Csync (Hsync / Vsync combined) and Vsync VS the LMH1251 board which output Hsync / Vsync and we already know works.

Will still play with it for the next few days to see if we can get something out of this because it could be a nice alternative to the LMH1251 in term of price and size.


Edit: so this page confirms it

"The circuit have one serious drawback: The HSYNC output of the circuit is not really a HSYNC signal. To be exact the signal which the circuit outputs is TTL level composite sync signal...By adding a little bit more electronics it is possible to make a real HSYNC output by wisely combining composite sync and VSYNC outputs from LM1881 using the following circuit which consits of two AND gates"

So it could work with 2 AND gates to make a H sync from the C sync but could be a bit overkilled for our usage, probably easier to go with a LMH1251 board from one of those PS2/PS3/Wii cable.

 

[cfc_12]

I manage to get some time to play with this yesterday and I can replicate the same issue. the screen goes on and loss sync after a few sec and goes back on.

My guess so far is that it could be due to the sync output. Based on the datasheet the LM1881M board output Csync (Hsync / Vsync combined) and Vsync VS the LMH1251 board which output Hsync / Vsync and we already know works.

Will still play with it for the next few days to see if we can get something out of this because it could be a nice alternative to the LMH1251 in term of price and size.

Now try the H & V wiring coming from the PS2 Motherboard