PS2 Ultra Slim

Wesk

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Is there a guide on how to add the power switch i ended using a 79 that didnt have the lid switch.
1) Purchase a taller tact switch similar to this:
1674626356407.png

2) Mount it to the bottom of the case with a little bit of glue in the same location that the lid switch would be.

3) Solder one leg of the tact to GND and the other to the Reset pad as shown in Tito's video.
 

Y2K

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Dumb question but do you have to remove the usb port or can you keep it on?
Needs to be removed to fit in the case. You still get one port, but it's not as useful as you'd think since its USB 1.1 speeds. Should also be able to use a hub though.
 

Merk

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1) Purchase a taller tact switch similar to this:
View attachment 25915
2) Mount it to the bottom of the case with a little bit of glue in the same location that the lid switch would be.

3) Solder one leg of the tact to GND and the other to the Reset pad as shown in Tito's video.
Thanks, I'm actually using the original power switch. I used hacksaw to cut it down and used some epoxy to attach it so the spot where lid switch is. If it works with the case ill post pics.
 

Wesk

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As it seems some people have been getting stuck on the software side of things I figured I'll update this here.

Make sure you're using the latest BDM4 version of OPL for best results, you can find more information in the PS2 SD loading thread here:
PS2 SD LOADING THREAD
 
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These are meshes only as it wasn't created in Fusion or the like. Adding a logo is simple enough with a boolean.
Got it yea I was already playing with it was just curious

You'll need to provide pictures of your soldering/wiring.
Do you have a free Mcboot card installed With the latest OPL

Is there a guide on how to add the power switch i ended using a 79 that didnt have the lid switch.
A momentary switch off of Amazon should work the same not 100% positive I ordered so I’m gonna try it out when they get here

[MOD EDIT]
Merged triple post.
 
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So, I'm a total neophyte with hardware mods. I've done some repair jobs in my day but this is more or less into the breach for me. The algorithm brought this mod to my attention and it just so happens my PS2 Slim is, in fact, a 79001. So I'm thinking about doing this but I had a few questions before I rip the proverbial band-aid off here:

1) I'm really into the idea of wiring in and soldering a SD adapter into the side, as Tito did on his build, but I wasn't sure if doing that would still neccesitate buying one of Helder's MC2SIO cards (because it looks like its a no-solder version of what I want to do with mine).

2) Passing similarity to the first question, I've never used FMCB or set up OPL (I've ran stock all these years since I used to own a Phat), so I don't know what I need to buy in terms of getting it set up. I've set up 2-3 handhelds for homebrew and a Wii but it's been awhile since I've done one so I want to know how much work has to be done before I take a Dremel to the PCB and get to soldering the SD adapter. Actually, if you know what I need to search for on Amazon to get the thin gauge, colored wires Tito has in his build that'd be great too. Haven't soldered wires since I installed a car radio, lol.

3) I also noticed on Tito's build that there was no obvious LED status indicator (POWER/STANDBY light) and I was wondering if that was an aesthetic choice or not. I'd rather find a way to reincorporate it somehow instead of leaving it off and wanted to know what would need to be done to reintegrate it (as in, where would I re-solder the LED to the PCB if need be and if there's already somewhere on the print that allows for the light to be placed and tell you if the PS2 is on or not).

4) The main reason I was thinking about this build is because the disc drive on my Slim seems to have a hard time recognizing when a disc is being read. It'll load a game, stop spinning the disc, and I have to continuously open and close the tray to get through stutters and errors. Could that potentially be an error caused by the lid switch (meaning I'd need to replace it to even get the build started) or is it something else?

5) I've heard scuttlebutt about other parts being integrated, such as HDMI conversion and I believe Bluetooth for controllers and wondered if there was anybody who had experience with that, namely the HDMI. It is the year 2023, after all, and you don't really have many TVs that still use A/V output. Could save me a lot of headaches down the line if I could find a way to integrate the A/V to HDMI dongle I've had for years (and possibly use the system itself to power it instead of the 1 USB slot I'd have).

Thanks for any help and advice you could offer -- I may need to move to another country soon and being able to take the 2 with me (with more modern conveniences) would be awesome.
 
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Has anyone else had an issue where the boot screen freezes when the colored balls turn into a single white one? I used the og switch since mine doesn't have the lid switch. Powers up normally until the freeze, I sanded the edge to keep the layers separate. Stumped atm.
 

Wesk

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Has anyone else had an issue where the boot screen freezes when the colored balls turn into a single white one? I used the og switch since mine doesn't have the lid switch. Powers up normally until the freeze, I sanded the edge to keep the layers separate. Stumped atm.
Gonna need pictures of your setup.
 

Merk

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Miketage i was having some issues myself until i changed the location of the switch's ground wire to a spot where it wouldnt touch the shielding.
 

Migon

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Seems that I got a SCPH-79004 with a GH-061 motherboard, it's slighty larger than the GH-062 found in other 79K consoles.

Got some components in different places, will take some photos myself of the bottom later but are these safe to just trim down so they fit the Ultra Slim case?
 

Wesk

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Seems that I got a SCPH-79004 with a GH-061 motherboard, it's slighty larger than the GH-062 found in other 79K consoles.

Got some components in different places, will take some photos myself of the bottom later but are these safe to just trim down so they fit the Ultra Slim case?
You should have no issues trimming along the same edge, you may want to send pics of the back of the board just to make sure the 5v reg for the USB isn't in the way.

1674809840238.png


[EDIT]

Doing some further checks it looks like there's nothing on the underside. Seems like the other regulator for the 5v USB may be this one here:

1674810459958.png


Although be sure to check with a multimeter, it's possible you might not need to rewire power to the USB port on this motherboard after trimming.
 

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Migon

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You should have no issues trimming along the same edge, you may want to send pics of the back of the board just to make sure the 5v reg for the USB isn't in the way.

View attachment 25941

[EDIT]

Doing some further checks it looks like there's nothing on the underside. Seems like the other regulator for the 5v USB may be this one here:

View attachment 25943

Although be sure to check with a multimeter, it's possible you might not need to rewire power to the USB port on this motherboard after trimming.
I believe you are right, should be a pretty easy trim, here is a photo of the back anyways to double check if all things are fine.

Will check with a multimeter to make sure also.
 

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Nope, 7900x was released in the following regions:

79000 - NTSC-J
79001 - NTSC-U/C
79002 & 79003 - PAL

Every other PS2 slim model is incompatible with this project since the 7900x series is the only series of PS2 slims with the small enough motherboard. The 9000x went to a larger board with an internal PSU, and thus is not compatible.
you didnt answer the second question, i want to MODIFY THE CASE to suit other boards, all i want is some measurements so i can edit it in blender.

you didnt answer the second question, i want to MODIFY THE CASE to suit other boards, all i want is some measurements so i can edit it in blender.
all i need is measurements to modify the case.
the thing with 3d models is that you can fuck them up however you want
 
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