LOL! Same here, many late nights.Please do all that you mentioned, I have all the parts already, a resin printer and use fusion 360. Just don't have the time to design and work out bugs. Happy to assemble it all late at night once kids are asleep!
It'd be a chonky build, but yeah this is what people used to do before the 7900X trim was available.So technically you could use this in a portable PS2 by using batteries and integrating a controller into the design and motherboard
Would you be interested in sharing the STLS? Thanks!View attachment 38098View attachment 38095View attachment 38096View attachment 38097
I made this version by modifying the files provided by wesk. This is a result of my frustration with my first try of the project ( I managed to lift the reset pad and bricked my board when fixing ). Also I liked the idea that the console is theoretically restorable to stock, as no traces are cut with the included power button. Other modifications include the sd card and switch moved to the back, and the sd card holder changed so that the board holds it in place.
The power button is a 12mm push button with a holder.
..and into the cart it goes!! Thanks for sharing!Hey guys, I've recently modded my ps2 ultra slim to work with usbc at 8.5v and a max of 5a.
Board is from here:
https://www.elecrow.com/usb-c-pd-and-pps-trigger-board-5a.html
Details are here:
And pics are here:
Hope it helps someone!![]()
As far as I understand it's more to do with the over volting risk. 3A for the Ultra Slim is good. This device is nice as you can put it at the correct voltage with one board. Others have done the 9V and its been fine. For me, I prefer to stay with the OEM voltage range (just in case).Is the standard PD 9v 3A not enough for a 79K, especially with no disc drive?