Worklog Ps2 portrait with pi smb

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Well i figured it's time I should start a worklog. I've been around the forums for a little while now reading the guide and a bit on discord so here goes my progress so far.

** April 18 2021

Finished Product

**Update Mar 14 2021
Some minor project changes:
  • Moved from standard trim to advanced for part placement
  • Pi 3b is now working with ethernet to ps2 and will have an usb ssd attached
  • Not thinking ahead or looking at the bit built store USB Pd charger closer, it would have been a great addition for internal storage out to pc
  • Switched to 1s4p layout with 18650 Cells, charging and output all handled by PS2 PMS
  • Current charger is just a simple 12v 3a external hdd power adapter, might consider a different programmable usb pd converter ex. ZY12PDN
  • Case modifications coming for L/R button comfort
  • The 2s battery level indicator thankfully can be swapped out for a 1s indicator in the same format so using a 2n3015 transistor I could use vsys or similar to display a different style of visual indicator

Requirements for my portable:
  • PS2 standard trim modified for ethernet
  • 5" vga compatible screen from the store
  • Cooler kit from the store
  • Pi 3b smb
  • 2s battery system, 22650 cells or flat lipo currently have a 10000mah 2s pack built waiting on my 26650 cells
  • 5v switching reg not a linear reg, pololu or the one from the guide, i was calling it the wrong thing initially
  • 2s charging board currently 2a tp5100
  • Mosfet switch circuit
  • Possibly extra LEDs for charge indicator
  • PS4 button swap kit aluminum
  • 9v 5a charger maybe a 12v 5a charger
  • 64mb fcmb slot 2
  • External slot 1 mem and usb
  • TTX aftermarket controller for board
  • More TBD later
So far the build is going well, trim works memory card is mounted. Video sources went great. Now it comes down to a case with space for everything.
 

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Looking good man! Can you explain how you wired the ethernet from ps2 to the pi? I see you only have two wires going to the pi then some sort of breakout board as well. I'd really appreciate it as It's the only thing i can't understand about the SMB method, thanks!
 
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So the best way for me to describe how the connection for ethernet is the paint drawing I added. The credit for this has to go to Darkwing I believe was the user, they had a photo of their completed build that showed this board being used. I've attached what Gman did in their PS2 Razer one of his build photos they did the capacitor method, but from what Darkwing tried their build didn't work with that. I did attach a diagram that would have been what gman did as well just for the info being in one spot. Gman however did use a 3b+ which had the extra pair for gigabit ethernet.
 

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i’m not trying to be rude by saying this, but why use a linear regulator? aren’t switching regulators much more efficient?
It is a switching regulator, I used the wrong wording. The pololu one is a D36V50F5 model
 
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It is a switching regulator, I used the wrong wording. The pololu one is a D36V50F5 model
I'm guessing that is used to stop the pi dropping voltage since the built-in linear one can? I should probably grab something similar for my build too
 
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I'm guessing that is used to stop the pi dropping voltage since the built-in linear one can? I should probably grab something similar for my build too
If by built in you mean the one from the guide that we need to put a power wire to one leg and the 5v to the audio board, I don't think that one would be able to handle the load of a pi. The pi would basically require upwards of 2.4a @5v based on its specs to run. Now we don't need that high due to just a usb and the ethernet so the power gets trimmed down decently. The switching regulator is being used to step the 2s power from 5.5v to 8.4v based on charge to a constant 5v, that way we don't loose any game time. The draw back is less battery time for better game loading than usb
 
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If by built in you mean the one from the guide that we need to put a power wire to one leg and the 5v to the audio board, I don't think that one would be able to handle the load of a pi. The pi would basically require upwards of 2.4a @5v based on its specs to run. Now we don't need that high due to just a usb and the ethernet so the power gets trimmed down decently. The switching regulator is being used to step the 2s power from 5.5v to 8.4v based on charge to a constant 5v, that way we don't loose any game time. The draw back is less battery time for better game loading than usb
Yes that's what i meant, the 5v would drop because it's linear and would drop as the 2s power would. From what i understand switching regulators keep that 5v regardless of the battery voltage to prevent things like the screen, audio and any other feature from dying in a random order. Also i assume you mean it steps the 8.4v to 5v not the over way around

I was going to have a larger one step voltage down to 8.4v to get around my cmb's limitation of 9-15v input so i could play and charge safely but found it drained the battery considerably
 
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Progress update, have a basic layout for my back shell pulled a bit of inspiration from the dmg gameboy with the ribbing on the side for handling.

Got my batteries, 26650s are definitely awesome but leaning to a more difficult fitting. Back shell is a rough print for now, had adhesion issues with my textured bed so It's on the shiny pei for now.

Now I gotta get connectors setup and finish wiring the face plate. Dimensions so far are 172mm h x 155mm w x 40mm thick it is comfortable to hold so far so that box seems to be checked
 

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Project adjustments:

Power changes, coming in the mail is a PS2 PMS in the later future I've decided as much as I liked the 2s3p setup I was going with, the power management of the ps2 just has to go and give me more space for moving things around. Doing this I can move back to the 26650s in a 1s2p at the very least.

Dimension issues, so far the thickness of the portable is something I'm finding to be a nuisance. I'm at about 45mm thick and boxy not a terrible size at all, but placement of parts internally has somethings hitting others that I'd like space around, even 1mm would be enough. Tried for fun a spacer in a different colour, while the splash of something different is great and the space was added, an extra 8mm was horrible to hold. So advanced trim and dropping the PS2 into the bottom cavity opens up some crazy space cooling channel would be better too. There's also the possibility of maybe loosing 5mm of thickness. My weekend project of the portrait GBA SP definitely spoiled me with things fitting in a smaller cavity and being comfortable to handle.

Needless to say it's all a learning experience, I do have progress photos of the front plate at least, will have to do a 5v mod to the LCD later.
 

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Back in business folks! So advanced trim is complete, wired up and powering nicely. PS2pms is amazing, kinda wish I snagged a uamp as well but we will see where the pam8403 gets me.

Currently I have to focus on case setup and placement of things, L and R buttons in my current design just don't feel comfortable when the weights added in so my rear shell is getting a redesign in a 2 piece stepped setup.
 

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Well Easter weekend progress report. Burned my hand with my iron but it's been worth it.

So rear of the case came together really well, have a removable mem slot 1. PS2 PMS led is sadly not as bright as I had hoped so I'll have to put a different RGB LED behind the logo, I do have a bright one. Uamps are now built and programmed, complete sold on the digital audio out, didn't anticipate adding a headphone jack but it found its way in. Waiting on a usb pd decoy board so for redundancy I have a DC barrel jack as well.

And progress report isn't complete with some necessary photo updates
 

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So epic updates, unit is almost finished! Found sometime this weekend to do the finer details on the portable. RPi 3b is now hooked up and running on the 5v line, seems to run just fine with 30awg power lines. Ran into some design issues, so some minor Frankencasing happened with the rear led and putting an external usb port in.

Still unsure about charge and play I seem to get a slower discharge while charge playing. That being said just did a battery test this morning with a 16000mah pack and got approx 4hrs and 15mins. So 4 18650 cells will amount to 14000mah at approx 3hrs and 40mins run time, can't say I really wanna play on a portable for longer but those are still good numbers.

I did wire up the rtc battery so I'll have to double check that time is being kept. I have charging redundancy now installed, my usb pd decoy boards are here, tiny little things but 12v and 9v compatible and I have DC Jack for a 12v or 9v DC power adapter like those for an external 3.5" HDD. Usb port is actually in a spot that doesn't conflict with holding.

** Yes rtc does work, helps to set the time so it initiates it
 

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