Solved Possible short?

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Hey guys, I got my PMS working after I replaced the U7 I exploded but I've got a couple of new problems that may or may not be related. First is that the board detects full charge on the batteries until I solder on the Wii, then the turns led red even with 4 lithium batteries. Second is that the board seems to turn completely off when I plug in a charger and isn't charging any of the batteries, my guess being that I need a better charger since the USB-C charging line only outputs 5v. Lastly, when I attach my Wii the 1.15v pad drops to 0.45v while the other voltage pads seem fine. I know I'm dumping a lot of information here but I'm honestly at a loss as to what is wrong.

Side note: I sanded the sides of the Wii trim some more and can't see any shorts but I'll post more pics if needed.

board.jpg
charging.jpg
short.jpg
 
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Gamecube has a handle, right?
This seems like it could be either a short on the Wii or on the PMS.

On the Wii:
If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance from the 1.15V pad to ground.
Make sure the solder joint isn't touching something it's not supposed to.
Make sure nothing is on the board shorting to anything else. (A random piece of wire, a drop of solder, etc.)

On the PMS:
Measure resistance to make sure there are no shorts on the 1.15v line. (Or any line for that matter.)
Check for anything visibly shorting any part of the PMS.
Some of the solder joints on the PMS look a little messy, and resoldering them might help.

Otherwise, any other information (like resistance, voltages, or pictures) would be helpful for diagnosing, and hopefully fixing your problem.
 

Stitches

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Can you provide close up photos of both sides of the Wii? In good light if possible.
 
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This seems like it could be either a short on the Wii or on the PMS.

On the Wii:
If you have a multimeter, measure the resistance from the 1.15V pad to ground.
Make sure the solder joint isn't touching something it's not supposed to.
Make sure nothing is on the board shorting to anything else. (A random piece of wire, a drop of solder, etc.)

On the PMS:
Measure resistance to make sure there are no shorts on the 1.15v line. (Or any line for that matter.)
Check for anything visibly shorting any part of the PMS.
Some of the solder joints on the PMS look a little messy, and resoldering them might help.

Otherwise, any other information (like resistance, voltages, or pictures) would be helpful for diagnosing, and hopefully fixing your problem.
Alright so I did a bit of probing and found the resistance for most of the voltages. The 1.15v is around 17 ohms and the lowest of the four. 1v is around 64 ohms, 3.3v around 120, and I couldn’t actually find the resistance of 5v but I would assume it’s the highest since it has the longest wire.
 
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Small update: I bought a RVL-PSU a couple weeks ago and just got it in the mail. I hooked up the Wii to it and it booted up just fine with composite display and everything.

In other words the Wii definitely doesn’t have a short leaving only the PMS or USB-C.

I’ll post close up pics of both boards a little later in case anyone want to play “find the short.”

Edit:
The USB-C was definitely not the problem as everything works fine with a new PMS. I’ll keep my old one around for when I get around to fixing it. Thanks everyone!
 
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Hello! I’m necroing this thread because I now have the same problem on a second PMS. I replaced the BQ chip I BBQ’d but when I turn the board on I get nominal voltages across the board except for 3.3v which seems to always be lower than the batteries.

With it wired to everything else (the screen, trimmed Wii, GC+ etc.) the batteries drop from 3.54v down to 3.2 and I don’t know why.

Edit: I added a bit more solder to the sides of the BQ and its working fine. Games boot but the power button from the USB-C board seems to have issues.

AD1EA05D-5333-4972-A2D9-C400445B7C12.jpeg
 
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