portable ps2 questions

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Hello everyone,
i've stumbled on your site a while ago, and im planning to make my own portable ps2.
I will work with a 7000x motherboard that im on the way to modify to support an internal disk (will be using either a 64gb sata dom for size or a ssd with the outer shell removed)
Since the 7000x motherboard is kinda big, i was wondering if it has some trimming potential that is relevant (if i only gain a few cm, i am not sure it is worth the effort)

i am also wondering if i will keep the disc drive or not.

and last, i am also considering making a custom regulator setup if i can get rid of the 8.5v line on the mobo, still trying to understand where goes what using the service manual.

I know that it might get power hungry, but im planning to get 4-6 26650 5000mah batteries that will be able to get me a lot of power to play through : )

Regards,
mrcarembole
 
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I am not a ps2 expert but i think i can offer a couple helpful hints.

First off, if you do have internal storage, the disk drive is rendered obselete. Also, the disk drive takes up space and uses more power. There is no reason to keep it.

Also, an internal hard drive would be pretty big and use more power than just using a flash drive. I would just recommend getting a 32gb or 64gb usb flash drive to put games on and plug in as you play. It would help to make the case smaller and extend the battery life a bit.

Can you post a link to the batteries you want to use? It would be great to get other peoples' opinions on if those batteries should be good or not.

I wish you all the luck on your first portable.
 
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here is the link to the batteries i'm planning to use :

http://efestpower.com/index.php?ac=article&at=read&did=448

Their first use is for ecig's, the goal of using a ssd to leverage the internal ide connection and thus having a fast loading speed, as consumption is concerned, an ssd saturated with I/O is consuming roughly 2.5w, and goes to ~30mw when idle, and it will be far from saturated via an ide connection, so the power consumption of that is not a real concern.
Regarding the foot print of a ssd when the outer shell is removed :
http://images.anandtech.com/doci/8747/MGX controller.jpg

Still good point regarding the optical drive, i will need to identify which IC can be safely removed so i can get as much power saved as possible.
 
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Those batteries could be fine, but you always run the chance of getting crappy batteries when you dont buy name brand. Also, those batteries specs seem to good to be true. You can buy them, and they could be awesome. But there is that chance that they arent what they say they are.

Still good point regarding the optical drive, i will need to identify which IC can be safely removed so i can get as much power saved as possible.
What do you mean by this?
 
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As i am a vaper, i already have 6efest batteries(but not this model), and they are good, the only lie, is about the pulse discharge current, which is damaging the battery a bit.

Regarding the optical drive i was saying that since i will remove the laser/motor, i can also remove the onboard controller that are made to interact with the laser/motor
 
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Before I switched back to the 79000 series I was going to do exactly what you're planning. My design then as now uses a Samsung 250 GB SSD, that way it's lightning quick and extremely low power consumption.

There will need to be an IDE to SATA bridge obviously, and for that you could go a number of ways, but the best would probably be to use one from an official PS2 kit, like these:
http://www.maxdiypower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=80
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesal...909084325&SearchText=ps2+network+adapter+sata

I was actually working on a clone of the first one that uses the FPCs from it, and would mount where the disk drive was and accommodate the SSD minus it's casing, also a spot for the CMOS
e355c894325d64b961848cfe02e8fdce.png


I have been looking for an excuse to finish it though, so if you're interested let me know.

And yes you are correct, you can remove both of the ICs that control the drive laser, just make sure to also remove the lid switch on the board so that the system never gets the idea to try to read from it, because that might just fling it into service mode
 
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Well, i was going to order the first one you linked, but that thing you made looks sexy :-D how much do you think will it cost to make, knowing than past a dremel and some basic soldering tools and a good amount of patience i have nothing tool wise

Edit:
Yes i was thinking of that regarding the disc switchs, im waiting for my new credit card to order a slim with a broken laser to start butchering it, that will give me some time to continue documenting myself and figure what IC to remove and what i can do regarding voltages
 
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The middle section is a cutout, for some reason the OSH Park HTML gerber viewer didn't make it black like the holes. Anyway it's a 4 layer board, so they'll make it for about 20 bucks

BTW do you have a preference for the EE and GS version? Because if you want to make sure it has the combo chip look for date code 4D, any other codes have the separate version chips, which IMO is less efficient
 
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you lost me with the EE and GS version thing
20 bucks aint that bad, but i will have to check around if i can get them made
by the way the console has no date code on the sticker, i will have to open it up to see for myself, what chip should i look at ?
 
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Nice one, but im living in the EU (France), and i got some on ebay for 10-20bucks (they come without anything but the charger though)
Its a version with the EE and GS in two chips, will have to see if the one that i wait in the mail are with a single chip
Here are pics of the board that i have, (yeah both the fan and cmos connector were too old and the plastics kind of melted together and i ripped them from the board ~~ i will replace them)

EDIT : just had a nice idea, i think regarding the charge and play port, i will be using a magsafe connector from an old broken macbook i have laying around
 

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Naw man that looks great, I only like the single chip version for cooling efficiency, but that is literally the only advantage to it, otherwise they are identical
 
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Started today by quickly trimming the shield to get only the radiator + fan assembly (need some further cleaning on the left side as i did it with a metal shear, broke my last dremel cutting disc, and ordered some back)
I will be using one screw + adhesive thermal paste. Just by press fitting with the majority of the shield trimmed the aluminium radiator is comming out flush on both EE and GS (was afraid it might not be the case)
I will be needing to find another SSD for the job though as the one i opened today is a full sized one.

Also i found in my stuff one of these sata to sata connector that can be screwed down, so i might make the ssd removable easyli (like some sort of memcard) to allow transfer from/to it directly from the computer using a sata->usb3 connector.

Now i've started working on modelising the bits that i currently have on a CAD software to be able to think about case size and all.
 

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Just be aware that that screen has a wide aspect ratio, so other than the handful of PS2 games that have widescreen support, most of your games will be stretched and distorted
 

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Just be aware that that screen has a wide aspect ratio, so other than the handful of PS2 games that have widescreen support, most of your games will be stretched and distorted
You know you can set the screen to 4:3 mode right? All 16:9 screens have that option.
 
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most of the game i will play on this have widescreen support or are fine even if distorted
 
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