Worklog PiR8_BTY's N64 Portable Control Deck (N64HH)

[PiR8_BTY]

Update! I wired up the @CrazyGadget OSD control board (used in this case for volume control) and continued to wire everything up. I checked all the connections and noticed I accidenatlly wired C-Left to GND and GND to C-Left. All fixed. Waiting on a @atkfromabove RCP flex and then I should be set to continue.

FYI, I know @Nicholas298 teased a VOL + OSD board, but I couldnt wait.

Spoiler: here

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Let there be light (and charging)! I harvasted the thermistor and RGB LED from my now abandoned 4th Gboy kit as these components fit the vintage of the RVL board perfectly. Plus I plan to do an entire 4layertech Gboy component build someday with a hint of under-volting and a laminated screen.

I trimmed a little bit of the mounting bracket to make it fit perfectly. And the best part is the led itself keys precisely inside the 2x2mm square hole. I was thinking about sourcing a square 2x2mm light pipe to help diffuse the light though. I know your supposed to use a traditional led in the expansion slot behind, but I like this solution.

Additionally, I originally ordered 603 (Imperial) passives for the sparkleboard and I thought I could repurpose them for the control board designed by Gman. Unfortunately his design calls for 402 (Imperial) passives for the controller board. I need to redo my board because it did not pass continuity tests and I dont want my SMD components to be doing gymnastics.

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Update! It would seem the big N was busy making at a few revisions of the jumper pak. With a 96,97, and 98 pcb date identified so far. Looks like the one with the (lower) 4 surface mount caps is the most desirable for trimming. Especially cause you can scratch away the solder mask at the higher trace and just add a jumper wire.

Next, I replaced the controller breakout board by populating, flashing and adding the CR0402 (imperial) passives. The silk screen on the MX chips are completely different.

Finished up the wiring for the FFC connectors on both sides and added a nice label for future reference.

now I need to work on testing the mobo, adding RAM, trimming the cartridge portion, wiring up the mobo with the help of an rcp flex cable, and trimming the jumper pak. Hopefully my screen isnt a dud. I also have some extra goodies in the wings, but i’ll save that for later!

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Update! I trimmed the jumper pak and got my new portable case.

Only the finest for this portable! No need for including charging cables anymore cause our phones use the same USB-C. Till next time.

 

[CrazyGadget]

Just a heads up, I believe you have to trim even more off, down to the row of vias (through the capacitor). You'll have to restore the one plane you cut off. That's going off of pics of Nicholas's original build, as well as Gunnar's

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Just a heads up, I believe you have to trim even more off, down to the row of vias (through the capacitor). You'll have to restore the one plane you cut off. That's going off of pics of Nicholas's original build, as well as Gunnar's

I thought they both had revision NUS-RTC-10 where there is no cap that needs to be removed up to the vias. Then they just ran a jumper wire on that lone high trace. But yeah, it probably will either barely fit or not at all.

 

[PiR8_BTY]

*Update*! I noticed my D-Pad wasnt working correctly and after a conversation with gman, he pointed me in the right direction. The N64 D-Pad has 2 little protruding nubs that need to be removed with flush cutters to work properly. These nubs are on the top of the D-PAd as shown in the photo.

I got some more goodies from JLC. I found out how to order tiny parts! Just connect them with break away plastic like a modeling kit! I got SLS nylon mounting brackets and resin buttons to match the smoothness of the stock oem buttons.

Next, I fixed the looseness of the usb-c connector by adding some shims.

Additionally, I tried to test my trim but my screen of course is DOA. Now my build is waiting on a replacement screen gosh darnit. Till next time.

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Hey Everyone,

*Update*

@Gman, @CrazyGadget and I got together to finish building this beast. I couldn’t have done it without the knowledge of these two gents. Credit especially has got to go Gman’s surgeon hands with a Dremel and skills with using the largest soldering tip possible to do RCP wiring. Sometimes I think he does these things to show off, but then again, never doubt the Gman. I noticed that CrazyGadget’s HH Z & R buttons felt better to the touch and that’s when he brought it to my attention that you need to trim the straight section of a paperclip and put in into the tiny holes near the Z & R buttons. Good to know, now my buttons feel much better. Additionally, I have been encountering some slight interference on the screen and a twisted pair didnt seem to help, per crazygadget’s suggestion, I am gonna use the wii’s wifi wire. Hopefully that should help.

Keep in mind, Wave Race 64 runs in a slight letterbox, which I assume is to achieve a more pleasant frame-rate.

Spoiler: Nudez”] [ATTACH type="full

33160[/ATTACH]
I want to re-do the heatsink we bent to accommodate the controller board, but that double-sided thermal tape that comes in a roll is really strong stuff! Probably not worth the risk anyhow for the sake of cosmetics. Fixed my wiring to make volume control be Start+D-Pad U/D (was previously reversed). Pay no mind to the FFC Connector sticker (old info)

Also, built a cool shell that plays off an alternate reality where the 64 got an official flash cart. No PCB RF shield trim needed on the 64DD capture cart (RIP)!

This build is solid! I closed it all up with genuine "Big N" tri-wing screws and it really looks the part. Console has over 10 hours on it and confirmed everything is working except the joystick, Still need to mess around with it to get it working 100%. Although I could still beat mischief makers (shake, shake)! That’s it for now!

 

[WolfSquatch]

Very hot. Congratulations

 

[Mc moron mods]

What is it with Nintendo and making motherboards way bigger than they need to be

 

[PiR8_BTY]

What is it with Nintendo and making motherboards way bigger than they need to be

Well the difference is I dont need to worry about passing EMI testing and passing emission limits set by different countries. You dont see any massive RF shields on our portables or massive outer ground planes. Plus many of the breakout boards put functions back in that were removed from the trim.

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Update!

A few weeks ago, I decided to try the 90 degree "bend method" for the expansion pak. It was super easy - just cut through the PCB about 75% and gently snapped the fiberglass forward and the layer mask followed suit. I Put some super glue to hold her steady. Works great, though I was worried about heat. I was going to do the RAM swap on this, but now that everything is in place, I don't want to mess with removing the thermal tape. Plus, Im planning on going "all out" for potential future revisions.

Decided to put in a 2-wire, 5v micro fan to help with cooling. I was going to add a thermal control board to change the fan speed based off thermistor values, but I wanted to gather some data on thermals first to determine if it's worth it in this form.

Based on the tests, the N64 thermally flatlines at around 22 minutes. I've decided i'm not really pleased with the current layout (although 50c aint terrible and RCP/CPU run at 37c). I'd love to re-do the test with an Akira flex and the x2 ram swap. That may bring down the thermals because the expansion pak pin connector is blocking the airflow/heat from directly escaping the top vent. Of note, the hottest part identified was the original repurposed N64 power switch at a toasty 61 C.

Additionally, I finally got the joystick to work after taking @Teatimetim's recommendation to re-flash the board whenever you reconnect the joy con flex and that fixed it! The values are VERY impressive. Almost dead-on with an original controller.

Next, I wired up the wii wifi shielded cable for less interference to the composite video (Tip, keep it away from that noisy FFC cable!). The screen is honestly not great, The N64's composite is fantastic though.

Next, I spent about 16 hours building a Mario Builder 64 level entirely designed on the HH. It's been getting great reviews and feedback from the community here. Lastly, I ran a battery test - Running an expansion pak enhanced game using the summercart 64 with the internal fan running at full-bore, my 3500mah Molicel batteries managed 2 hours and 16 minutes before the console cut out. Not bad! This console, nay, portable control deck probably has close to 80 hours on it. Really pleased with it at this point. Back to gamin'!

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Another update! The joystick was buggin' me in all its comfy glory. Time to incorporate the original N64 joystick to meet my original build outline from 2022...

All I did was chop the joystick neck off and sand, I believe I might be the first one to do this? Alternatively, you could have trimmed the joycon stick nub slightly and removed material from the underside of the original N64 thumb stick to make a keyed and recessed fit. Recommend to use a plastic weld like JB weld. Gonna do some smash testing and will report back if it flies off. (I doubt it will)

Thank goodness for the hole in the center of the n64 thumbstick, It makes centering a breeze. Especially when the screwdriver I was using was a perfect friction fit with the centering hole.

To be honest, I think this finally concludes the build. But never say never (I'm lookin' at you NUS-013).

 

[Stitches]

ＡＵＴＨＥＮＴＩＣＩＴＹ

 

[PiR8_BTY]

ＡＵＴＨＥＮＴＩＣＩＴＹ

Damn straight!

 

[PiR8_BTY]

Update on that joystick topper. Just put 18 hours on it to beat a fun fan mod called Jiggies of Time. It’s still rock solid, and I actually prefer it to the rubber joystick topper. Just wanted to post this in case anyone was still on the fence.

 

[ewan]

In order to solve the calibration issue, did you have to use normal switch sticks instead of hall effect ones? I have issues with various k-silver hall effect sticks, but non-hall effect sticks calibrated perfectly.

 

[Downing]

Amazing work man, good job!

 

[PiR8_BTY]

In order to solve the calibration issue, did you have to use normal switch sticks instead of hall effect ones? I have issues with various k-silver hall effect sticks, but non-hall effect sticks calibrated perfectly.

I ended up going with normal switch sticks instead of hall effect ones. I was having the same issue, kinda a bummer, but easy enough to swap out in the future. I probably have close to 300 hours on the portable now, and still having a blast!

 

[ewan]

I ended up going with normal switch sticks instead of hall effect ones. I was having the same issue, kinda a bummer, but easy enough to swap out in the future. I probably have close to 300 hours on the portable now, and still having a blast!

Good to know. I found out that hall effect sticks will work perfectly as long as you use normal switch sticks for the calibration and then swap it out.