Worklog PiR8_BTY's Ashida Worklog(s)

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Hey Everyone!

I have been following the Ashida portable project since it was announced and was elated once it dropped. Now that the wait is over, it's that time again to get portablizing! Join me in my build as I mentally kick myself to the finish line. :mrgreen:


I want to go for a complete OEM feel, this means no 3D printed shell. I settled on SLA #8100 Translucent w/ #1000 grit sanding and OEM controller internals.
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T3 Stick boxes baby! (I sourced some metal L&R retainers from a non-functioning wavebird, since the new super smash controllers do not include them)
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Note: Controllers WERE harmed in the making of this (RIP)
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Genuine OEM on the Left, Aftermarket on the Right (P.S. Never buy aftermarket stick boxes)
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It was a successful transplant doctor^
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Case came in from PCBway and it feels amazing, However, it's really scratched even using #1000 grit sandpaper. I might try to sand blast it with walnuts (thanks for the suggestion, Gman)
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I made some modifications to the L&R button mounts to make it so I don't need to 3D print new ones. There are some very minor clearance issues for either side (depending on the screws your use and to accommodate the Left 'Z' button, as this is not present on the stock gamecube)
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Started wiring up the battery terminals. I've learned from previous experience that its much nicer to not have the 2 battery wires share the pads where the B- and B+ terminate. It's a bit tricky, but as with anything, it just takes patience.
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Wesk just graced us with a stand to display our Ashida! However, My prusa Mini+ isnt quite big enough for the job. Had to split the job in half. The perfectionist in me says this is only a temporary solution...
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VRROOOOM, the fan spins and the USB to SD card adapter is recognized when plugged into my comp. (Make sure your USB-C wire is good, i've had a bad Anker from the factory) This is just a mock photo, still have a long, long journey ahead of us. Before I go any further, I wanted to thank Wesk, Gman, Aurelio and Shank for their countless contributions to the community (you guys rock). Till next time...
 
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It's looking awesome, can't wait to see it completed.
Thanks, Wesk! Going to take this project slow and try to enjoy the building process. The Ashida just feels too damn good in the hands to not do it right.
 
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*Update*

Been slowly chuggin' along to the finish line.
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We learned that the SLA printed Ashida's need the button membrane to be slightly cut to fit correctly (Thanks, MP3)
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Some photo's of the wiring before I had to redo it all for the 10th time. It seems that wiring the Ashida is a little tricky due to the limited space and stacked PCB's.
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I ran into some issues with my trimmed motherboard and had to break out a spare one I had lying around from December of last year! Here is my testing setup. Notice the black tape on the LCD bezel (metal color doesnt look to nicely on a translucent console IMO.
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Switching to magnet wire so far seems to have cleaned things up. If I did something wrong or there is a better way to do this comments are welcome!

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this was the best method I found to make the 2 PCB's mate up. It ended up working pretty nicely I think.
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So far I wired up the 3 PCBs. Hopefully I can get started wiring up the wii trim tomorrow. Till next time...
 
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I see you've screwed the interface board in but you've forgotten the buttons.
You caught me. Haha, Im still waiting on my buttons and wanted to keep busy till then. I didnt dare use all 4 screws cause lord knows how much sla & fdm love self tapping screws.
 
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*Update*
Wired up the mobo, Updated the old BBLoader mobo to rvloader v1.4, switched to VGA, wired up digital audio, removed the inductor on the lcd driver board and wired the controls. also of note, the C stick wiring is reversed from stock.
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Still plenty more to do and waiting on my 3D printer to arrive. Till next time...
 
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thank you for making this worklog, as someone who's planning to do an ashida as my first portable with only an basic grasp of electronics this helps tremendously
 
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Today mark's the 20th anniversary of Super Smash Bros. Melee being released in the USA! How fitting that it is also the day I completed my build (Less RTC, BT and Rumble).

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It's been a long journey - I accidentally fried my PMS-2 when a stray screw landed on the board while it was powered on. I had a sound issue that I couldn't find out for the life of me. Whenever I sandwiched the cases without closing them, I had a terrible static noise in my speakers. No amount of rewiring GND and MC in a twisted pair would solve it. I then screwed down the case completely and this solved this issue (5 hours of testing so far). I also switched from 34AWG to 30AWG for the majority of the wiring and it made the world of a difference since it is so much easier to work with.
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Instead of using 3D printed parts, I wanted to use the real L&R mounts. It worked great and has better fitment than my 3D Printed ones cause it hooks in the front. I just needed to cut them into shape and drill a hole for the screw to mount into.
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Inner guts
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I added some stickers internally to show what each button does. It looks better in person. If you look at it directly you can reach each label
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I miss the IPS screen in my Gboy(s). When will we be blessed with the DD unit?
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Seriously, The shorter screws that the wii used are hands down the best option. They are just the correct length and really provide some bite for the controller PCB's wii Mobo PCB, and the case itself.
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Wire optimization is the name of the game with this build. I used a thickly shielded wire for the LED and that really helped hold it in without the need for any type of glue. The case once it is bolted up is REALLY solid. Of note, make sure you don't keep working the screws back and forward when working with SLA. Try to get it right the first or second time cause the more you go back, the weaker the screw threads get. You can always bore out the screw posts - but then that might compromise it as well.

I'd write more but I need to get back to playing it!

Till next time! :)
 

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Hey everyone!

I just finished my second Ashida! I took everything I learned from the 1st one to make the ultimate wii/gamecube portable.
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1st up, I wanted to add real time clock (RTC). This was easy enough, however I wasnt sure where to route it cause I wanted to add a removable battery holder. I settled on combining the holder and the PCB and it works great!
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Next, I wanted to add Bluetooth for wii-mote function. I attempted to place it on the NAND chip, but this presented issues once the case was closed. I decided to place it hanging upside down above the audio board. I made sure to score the metal shield on the PCB to make sure it adhered better. I hope the glue holds with some heat cycles. ButI dont think this area of the board gets too hot anyway.
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Next, I wanted to tackle adding LRA rumble. I wanted a more modern rumble vs tradition ones for numerous reasons. I harvested this one from a Nintendo switch joycon and it works great! My first mounting location was a mistake and was too close to critical stuff and I didn't like the idea of it hanging there.
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It's a perfect friction fit where I mounted it now. I just had to sand the area slightly. The rumble function wasn't working till Aurelio had me do some firmware testing for him. Now with the firmware updated, it works great. Much appreciated sir!
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I added some glue just to secure it and to dampen it a-little bit. And dont worry, I took care of the wiring near it so they don't connect. All in all, I really pleased with the rumble as It's just the right amount - not enough to rattle the fillings outa your teeth like the bygone days of wired controllers.
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I use these wii screws for the internals (shorter ones). They are the perfect size and really provide some bite.
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I had to trim the longer side of the Z buttons and this made the case close PERFECT
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I encountered an issue where the headphone jack would not work when I plugged it in. Gman told me to run a wire from HS on the audio pcb to the HS via on the wii mobo. This solved the issue.
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I used actual gamecube font for the sticker below.
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I had to drill out the screw posts to accommodate the official gamecube controller screws. That was an amazing decision and the fitment is so much better than my clear Ashida shell. Now I have to go back and finish the clear one! The end result I think speaks for itself and I cannot wait to put it through it's paces!
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Till next time!
 
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Hey Everyone! Minor update, I printed a back label for the Ashida. I designed it so someone could pick it up and easily understand what it is. If I got any of the power details wrong, let me know so I can correct them! And sorry, I cannot share this sticker for obvious reasons, i'm just creating a one-off for myself.
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Final update! The 4layer boys blessed us with an IPS screen upgrade. I had to install it and also correct the wrongs that I made in terms of the batteries I originally opted for (AliExpress specials). This thing is a beast now!

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