Worklog Open PS2 -placeholder name

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Hello everyone,

A Long-time viewer here. The bug bit me a few years ago and I spent close to 2k on a 3d printer and components to make a ps2 portable, got it 90% working, then abandoned the project due to life happening. It was a spaghetti of wires on the inside. I only trimmed the USB ports and added way too many (in my eyes now) components to the build such as a second controller port, second memory card port, and even an AV port so I could dock it. Combined with 4 18650 batteries, it was huge, clunky, and I never even got the controller to work properly, but everything was hot glued together so there was no way to fix anything.

I immediately recognised the mistakes, saw GMAN and others making their own custom PCBS to go with their projects, thought "wow that's literally magic there's no way I can understand voltage regulation" and abandoned all hope of ever making something that nice.

Through these years I've hated that I couldn't understand how PCBS or ICs or whatever the hell else kind of chips out there worked and I felt stupid for not even trying. Since then I became a software engineer and I learned the magic of constant googling, and reading documentation on literally everything I touch. A few weeks ago I figured it couldn't be much worse to try and read the documentation for a chip of some kind, weirdly understood it, and decided to have another crack at this whole thing.

In that time I've spent WAY too much on components, (shipping costs from Digi-key and mouser combined with supply shortage forcing me to order components as soon as I find something that works freaking sucks) But I've actually gotten a good handle on all of this. Since then I've designed a few things for the system and will still design a few more to go with it before I begin case design, but I wanted to share everything with you here.

My goal for this portable is to have something personal, lightweight, long-lasting, to learn more about the hardware side of things, and most importantly, to open source everything once I know it all works.

I won't be sharing PCB files or 3d case files before I confirm it all works because I don't want someone else to put it together before me and get burned by my mistake in one of them, that's my responsibility. But as soon as it's all done, all will be shared through GitHub files.

And once all is done, I'm planning on putting together a few more tutorials for the newbies in the community that may have let anxiety get in the way of what I believe to be a wonderful hobby just like I did for all that time.

That being said, welcome everyone, all suggestions, complaints, criticism, and chatting opportunities are welcome. Hope you keep an eye on this ride with me, since I'm not sure if this rollercoaster is fully built, the safety belt won't click all the way down, and I heard the operator laughing maniacally as he kicked this thing into full gear. I am afraid for my life, please help.
 
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The first update is made up of the 2 major parts I had to fully design myself,

ps2-pms editor.pngps2-pms pcb.png

This is the ps2-pms, all components are currently soldered to one side of the board, it's only 2 layers since pcbway will print it for 5 dollars that way, and I was scared of putting components on the other side of the board (IDK why, I'm stupid) it uses a few different chips in there, it's capable of supplying all the voltages necessary for the ps2, with 3 switching regulators, 1 linear regulator, 1 boost converter (for 5 volts, used for usb and screen), a bms with charging indication led, and a low battery detection circuit with led points.

Now on to the usb-c power delivery and data.

usb-c editor.pngusb-c pcb.png

The chip for pd is identical to the one used by GMAN for his usb-c circuit, and the general layout is too, but a few things had to be different in my design, I couldn't figure out how to have a button turn on the console so mine will be later on used just a regular switch for on/off, and I had to design a completely different circuit around the chips I was able to find. It should be able to accept any usb-c charger and negotiate down 5 volts, which will then be taken in by the bms and converted into the 4.8 needed to charge the batteries. Much like the first design, this PCB only has components on a single side.

If anyone knows how to use a button for turning the whole thing on/off please let me know, but I'm pretty sure with the chips I could find that's not an option. Cheers!
 
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Update: I've been hard at work on the controller and amp design, and I'm almost done with it. But I got the package of inductors and they're 10 times bigger than what was advertised... So I'm looking for a replacement that's going to be smaller because I will not put an 8mm inductor in this stupid PMS no way. Although maybe I'll redesign to put things on the rear of the PCB to fit it if I absolutely must, we'll see...

Edit: I went with the cheaper and more time-consuming option. I threw some of the components to the back of the board and integrated the bigger inductors into the design.

pms modified.pngpms-3d-modified.png
 
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And so after too many hours spent on the PMS, I think I have my final version... Unless I really screwed something up.

I added button functionality through the sysoff pin that the BMS has running through a latching power circuit to turn it high and low which cuts off power from the battery to the out pins instead of always having it grounded and on and using an on/off switch.

Moved some components around to clean things up.

Removed some useless vias that I had in there for GND when my net is already all GND in the first place.

Added a dedicated battery negative and GND pad for soldering.

Actually named the components on the board so you don't have to guess later what goes to what.

And lost a bit of my sanity in research and double-checking in the process.

pms-final.pngpms-pcb-back-final.pngpms-pcb-front-final.png

Next, I'll revisit the USB-c PCB which since the last time I posted I managed to shrink down, to add a button (I'm sorry GMAN if your design worked with my board I'd just buy yours) and I'm almost done with the controller and U-AMP module which combines two in one.


To make something clear before people go for my throat, My design combines a bunch of things I've seen on here and on youtube and I've learned from you guys, By no means am I that original, that smart, that good at any of this. The reason the PMS and USB-c boards look so similar to GMAN's is because I referenced his design originally and am even using the usb-PD chip he uses in his USB-c board. The chips I used for the PMS are completely separate from what GMAN used, and I doubt any of the components are the same otherwise.

The controller board is very similar to Benge's and combines an idea I got from Ginger where he placed the U-AMP parts into his controller board.

This is all so I can learn more about this part of the field, and because I think everyone brought something to the table that was worth using in my own designs.

I'll update you all on the design of the USB-C board tomorrow, and the controller board should be done in a day or two.
 
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HUGE update coming tomorrow after work. I just stayed up till 4 am for the 14th day in a row but it's all worth it with only 3 PCBs necessary to run the ps2, what I think might be the SMALLEST USB-c PD and data board and a new idea for the battery indicator LEDS that I haven't seen anyone use despite them using the ps vita buttons all the time. minimal wires going between places too (and might even make it less, we'll see).
 
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Alright everyone, time for an update... I've sunk countless hours into this over the last 3 weeks, and through that time I've learned a lot. So without further ado, I present to you the big small 3:

First up we have the ps2-pms:
ps2-pms-final.pngps2-pms-final-front-3d.pngps2-pms-final-back-3d.png

Currently just need to find a 1uh 10mOhm inductor for the board that I like and it'll be complete. It takes in 5V through a BMS, charges the batteries, and has an internal VOUT for the rest of the regulators. It has a SYSOFF pin which cuts power from batteries but still allows charge when it's connected high, and allows power through when connected low, and for that, there is a latching power switch that will switch the signal high and low at the press of a button. To make it so there are fewer soldering cables hanging around I've decided to use a 5pin FPC connector for the ON/OFF switch and led lights. The BMS also has an optional charging led circuit which will be wired to BLUE.

There are 5 regulator circuits outputting at 1.25V, 1.8V, 2.5V, and 3.5V for the PS2, as well as a 5V step-up for the AV chip and USB-A circuit. And finally, a low voltage transistor cut that will power on a red LED when you have roughly 30 minutes of playtime left.

Next is the right controller PCB:
ps2+-right-final.pngps2+-right-final-front-3d.pngps2+-right-final-back-3d.png

Housing the start, select, and action buttons, as well as solder points for the right speaker, and right shoulder buttons, but wait, what's that right next to the start and select buttons? That's the ON/OFF power button, but it's not just that. You know what I hate? LEDs sticking out of things, the ps vita has a home button that's transparent down the middle specifically for LEDs, so why not add them next to the button and have a nice and clean-looking indicator? It also houses a modified chip footprint since the original one in GMAN's files was unavailable to purchase. Same chip, smaller footprint. And a twelve-point connector for the...

Left controller PCB:

ps2+-left-final.pngps2+-left-final-front-3d.pngps2+-left-final-back-3d.png

Simple enough face, joy-con connector, directional buttons, but with the addition of custom-designed vol+, and vol- buttons conveniently on the face. And the rear houses the UAMP, the left speaker solder pads, and the left shoulder button solder pads.

And for my crowning achievement, the USB-C plug:

usb-c-adapter final.pngusb-c-adapter-front-final-3d.pngusb-c-adapter-back-final-3d.png

Full USB-C PD negotiated power delivery that will supply 5V to the BMS and USB-A plug whenever it's plugged in, a 5V+IN pad allowing the BMS to provide the 5V for it the rest of the time, but most importantly? I believe I may have made the smallest USB-C to USB-A PD and data transfer board on the market period.

Now, why is this important? The screen takes up the most width, and the PS2 motherboard takes up the most thickness out of the portable anyway.

Here's the thing, with some variation of these I think we can make thinner portables, We can make more modular debuggable portables. Did something break? Time to replace the face buttons? The USB plug is old and worn out? Don't desolder for 6 hours a million wires, just throw this one, plug a new one. Don't know your head from your tail but you've seen videos of people making PS2 portables your whole childhood? BAM order this from PCBWAY or whatever and place a few components. And with this being open-sourced once I've verified everything working, people can come in and improve on these designs and add better chips, and create better connectors and connection points smaller designs, the sky is the limit.

I hope this can invigorate interest in PS2s as much as the GBOY did for the WII. I want this amazing console to get the love I think it deserves not just from the few who can design and build one, but for the many who can only look up a video for a heat gun and have a few dollars in their pockets.

Special thanks to GMAN and Ginger for some of the ideas I took from them here. Cheers guys!
 
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Quick tiny update, I'm making the 3d models for the case and all the components.

I'm a massive fucking idiot and have been testing things wrong.

Here's the thing, my fusion file is in cm, cura is in mm, so when I've been importing things in I've just been adding a 0 to the scale. That should by all means scale things correctly because you need 10mm to get 1cm. Nope, the scaling percent doesn't work that way for some reason. So now I'm just scaling by 1000% and it's working a lot better. I'll share some pictures of the case soon!
 
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ALRIGHT SO!

I finally got all the measurements out to a place I actually liked the feel of.

case-bottom-view.PNG


The case is simple enough, I'm not much of a designer though I'd love to have the battery parts thicker and the rest thinner on the bottom side of the case but I have no idea how to do that, so eventually I'll get to doing that if I figure it out.

The case is 3cm thick at the moment which might actually be too small to be comfortable for long play sessions. the fan and heatsink design is really basic and I'm playing around with the idea of having a cooler looking design for the fan intake, we'll see what I decide on.

bottom-case-top-view.PNG


The bottom of the case is pretty empty and will keep being empty because i designed the entire portable to use ribbon cables (other than the power lines). I added a headphone jack to the usb-PD board for cleanliness but still have the original files without the headphone jack in case people are interested in the smaller form factor. And it uses 2 21700 batteries running in parallel for 10000Mah at 3.7V.

top-case-top-view.PNG


The top of the case houses 3 custom made PCBS (I made some small changes to the ps2+ board I posted before due to clearance issues in my case) The right side houses the ps2+ chip and a few buttons along with 4 ribbon connectors for the controller, and for connectivity to the joycon and other sides of the board.

The left side houses the UAMP chips along with the connectors necessary for the joycon and connectivity to the other boards.

top-case-bottom-view.PNG


On the front, the speaker grills are made in the shape of the ps logo, with a power button smack in the middle of the case, the start and select to the left of it, and the vol+/vol- being on the left side.

I'll be taking some time to design the shoulder buttons soon but I'm holding off on doing so until I get the rest of my parts. I have a few chips from TI taking their sweet time being held up in China, and a few buttons, etc. Ordered from aliexpress that are also taking longer than expected to arrive. Once I have everything I'll be finalising the designs, releasing the PCBs publically, and ordering my own PCBs. Maybe the case files if there's any interest in that? IDK you guys let me know what you'd like to see released publically VS what I should keep out of the public forum.
 
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Is there any way to get these boards? :)
All the boards will be posted publically very soon. I'm finalising everything still and keep having to go back and fix or change things as the design of the case is changing or I find myself able to make some improvements! Be on the lookout and I'll post here as soon as they are.

I'm holding off until I'm comfortable enough with them that I can order them so I can feel comfortable enough with other people putting orders for them.
 
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Alright guys update, you know what doesn't make sense? Spending literally weeks designing and perfecting the PCBS and then clobbering together a quick square with filleted edges as the case design. So fuck it, I spent a few more hours on it. Case 2.0 it is. It's not original, it's dumb, my 3d printer will be going through hell trying to print this thing, might have to slice it into several pieces and epoxy it, or maybe have PCBway print it in clear for me (if I have the money) but here's the better design. (There are no screw posts for the top and bottom halves because I'm designing it to be snap shut fit)

First is the boring part with barely any changes,

top-case-top-view.PNG


Two tiny posts which will pressure fit a switch against the button, I've tested this model before it seemed to work pretty well, if anyone has any better design tips for those things I'd be happy to take a look at it because I haven't figured out a smarter way to do these stupid things.

bottom-case-bottom-view.PNG


The bottom now more resembles the fan grills I used in my first portable which in my experience were a lot easier to sand and my printer had a lot less trouble with printing clearly, as well as the benefit of not actually being able to see through the grills all that much.

bottom-case-sideview.PNG


The bottom of the case now has 2 side areas which double as battery compartments, and a good way to hold the portable so that your hands don't cramp from the projected 7 hours of playtime this thing should be able to get.

bottom-case-top-view.PNG


And here's the top view of the same compartments. I'd rather avoid soldering the batteries (and buying a tig welder) so I'll be looking into making a pressure contact point in that area for the batteries. And the same 2 little dumb posts for the L2, R2 buttons. I don't remember how the hell I designed the shoulder buttons last time and that's a problem for tomorrow's version of me. But I'm on the final stages of design.

I'll be finalising everything within this week, I'll be sending the PCB out to be ordered by thursday and sending them to a buddy of mine for testing, once I get the all clear I'll be making them public.
 
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So I've been waiting on chips, ICS, microcontrollers, components, and who knows what else, I've lost count, for over a month and I pretty much ran out of things to test without the board being ordered, which I don't want to order before I have the money to buy the hot air station (Don't judge me my brain works in stupid ways) But so I decided to rework a few things.

Not much of an explanation is necessary, same functionality, same chips, just compressed things and eliminated dead space while making sure that all nets were correctly connected.

USB-C board with a headphone jack and without, older is on top:

Screenshot_20220528_004123.png
Screenshot_20220528_004150.png
Screenshot_20220528_004241.png


PMS: Older is the bigger one

Screenshot_20220528_004456.png
Screenshot_20220528_004520.png
Screenshot_20220528_004543.png


Controller boards: middle one is for start, select, volume, and on/off:
Screenshot_20220528_005315.png
Screenshot_20220528_005503.png
Screenshot_20220528_005521.png


I'll rework the case a bit for the smaller PCBS and order them soon. Once I'm happy with all of it I'll print the case and update here with the links to the PMS and USB boards.
 
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So I've been waiting on chips, ICS, microcontrollers, components, and who knows what else, I've lost count, for over a month and I pretty much ran out of things to test without the board being ordered, which I don't want to order before I have the money to buy the hot air station (Don't judge me my brain works in stupid ways) But so I decided to rework a few things.

Not much of an explanation is necessary, same functionality, same chips, just compressed things and eliminated dead space while making sure that all nets were correctly connected.

USB-C board with a headphone jack and without, older is on top:

View attachment 22750View attachment 22751View attachment 22752

PMS: Older is the bigger one

View attachment 22753View attachment 22754View attachment 22755

Controller boards: middle one is for start, select, volume, and on/off:View attachment 22756View attachment 22757View attachment 22758

I'll rework the case a bit for the smaller PCBS and order them soon. Once I'm happy with all of it I'll print the case and update here with the links to the PMS and USB boards.
They look cleaner I like them, hopefully they work out great with no issues Great work
 
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Quick update:

I'm still working on the case to make sure that my printer can print it with no problems and that it looks as clean as possible, I'm experimenting with switching materials for extra heat and impact resistance too.

I ordered my boards 20 days ago and just received them a few days ago. Most of the boards seem to be fine, but I did notice a few mistakes I made with the USB-C board so I'm fixing them and then I'll be reordering it soon and testing.

Sorry for the lack of updates guys but this part of the process will take some time due to financial difficulties while I'm prototyping and getting everything to the final working stages.
 

Stitches

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Quick update:

I'm still working on the case to make sure that my printer can print it with no problems and that it looks as clean as possible, I'm experimenting with switching materials for extra heat and impact resistance too.

I ordered my boards 20 days ago and just received them a few days ago. Most of the boards seem to be fine, but I did notice a few mistakes I made with the USB-C board so I'm fixing them and then I'll be reordering it soon and testing.

Sorry for the lack of updates guys but this part of the process will take some time due to financial difficulties while I'm prototyping and getting everything to the final working stages.
Don't worry about it my guy, life is a thing for everyone atm
 
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