Worklog Opaque Blue Noldendo

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Hi, I'm still working on gathering components and finalizing details, but here are the consumables I've gathered so far ...

IMG_20230607_144123138.jpg

The case is currently printed in gray PLA. However, I have an unopened spool of blue ASA, a full metal throat for my Ender 3 that has not yet been installed, and a 3D printer enclosure I've never used, so if I say I do it here I'll have do follow through, because accountability. Imma make me a blue Noldendo-style Wii Micro!

IMG_20230607_144208799.jpg

Also, yes, there are many materials here that are extra/unnecessary, but I've been going through boxes where I've stored everything needed for each unfinished project, finding out how many duplicate things I've bought. I'm trying to keep them together now.
 
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Hi, I'm still working on gathering components and finalizing details, but here are the consumables I've gathered so far ...

View attachment 27956

The case is currently printed in gray PLA. However, I have an unopened spool of blue ASA, a full metal throat for my Ender 3 that has not yet been installed, and a 3D printer enclosure I've never used, so if I say I do it here I'll have do follow through, because accountability. Imma make me a blue Noldendo-style Wii Micro!

View attachment 27957

Also, yes, there are many materials here that are extra/unnecessary, but I've been going through boxes where I've stored everything needed for each unfinished project, finding out how many duplicate things I've bought. I'm trying to keep them together now.
your case looks awesome i dig it tbh i’m surprised it turned out so nice with pla !
 
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Quick update. I've not made a huge amount of progress, but at least some has been made. I got the case printed in PETG, with significant defects, but it got done. I removed the memory card port, and wired up the PTH08080 modules.

Case in blue PETG:

IMG_20230627_023732637.jpgIMG_20230627_023745210.jpg

4x PTH08080WAH. Yes, those are solder bridges. I don't care, they work fine:

IMG_20230627_023615893.jpg

These were the voltages from the regulators, without any load, hopefully they're close enough:

4.999v​
3.272v​
1.144v​
0.996v​

Does anyone know if these voltages are close enough?

I'm still waiting on a DC plug that fits the case, which should arrive within a week. After that I'll wire up the plug and regulators in the case.

RVL-CPU-01 motherboard with memory card port removed:

IMG_20230627_023821403.jpg

The next step is U10 relocation and cutting the board up!

Something worth mentioning is that I didn't have my soldering iron calibrated correctly, and I got frustrated with it not melting solder so I cranked it waaay up. I burned out two of the regulator modules in the process. After that I got out the soldering station manual, looked up the melting point of most lead-free solders, and with my MLX90640 tried to tune the station to the right temperature.
 
Last edited:
Joined
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Messages
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Quick update. I've not made a huge amount of progress, but at least some has been made. I got the case printed in PETG, with significant defects, but it got done. I removed the memory card port, and wired up the PTH08080 modules.

Case in blue PETG:


4x PTH08080WAH. Yes, those are solder bridges. I don't care, they work fine:


These were the voltages from the regulators, without any load, hopefully they're close enough:

4.999v​
3.272v​
1.144v​
0.996v​

Does anyone know if these voltages are close enough?

I'm still waiting on a DC plug that fits the case, which should arrive within a week. After that I'll wire up the plug and regulators in the case.

RVL-CPU-01 motherboard with memory card port removed:


The next step is U10 relocation and cutting the board up!

Something worth mentioning is that I didn't have my soldering iron calibrated correctly, and I got frustrated with it not melting solder so I cranked it waaay up. I burned out two of the regulator modules in the process. After that I got out the soldering station manual, looked up the melting point of most lead-free solders, and with my MLX90640 tried to tune the station to the right temperature.
that blue case came out super clean it looks even better than the grey one you had
 

Stitches

2 and a Half Dollarydoos
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Quick update. I've not made a huge amount of progress, but at least some has been made. I got the case printed in PETG, with significant defects, but it got done. I removed the memory card port, and wired up the PTH08080 modules.

Case in blue PETG:


4x PTH08080WAH. Yes, those are solder bridges. I don't care, they work fine:


These were the voltages from the regulators, without any load, hopefully they're close enough:

4.999v​
3.272v​
1.144v​
0.996v​

Does anyone know if these voltages are close enough?

I'm still waiting on a DC plug that fits the case, which should arrive within a week. After that I'll wire up the plug and regulators in the case.

RVL-CPU-01 motherboard with memory card port removed:


The next step is U10 relocation and cutting the board up!

Something worth mentioning is that I didn't have my soldering iron calibrated correctly, and I got frustrated with it not melting solder so I cranked it waaay up. I burned out two of the regulator modules in the process. After that I got out the soldering station manual, looked up the melting point of most lead-free solders, and with my MLX90640 tried to tune the station to the right temperature.
Those voltages should be good. Normally we recommend going a little bit higher than the required voltage because of the drop under load (especially on them thirsty 6 layers), but you should be okay. Also if you have any spare caps, I'd put an output cap on the regs as well. You don't need them, but Ginger can tell you a rousing tale about output noise on a PTH 3.3v line killing his stuff.
 
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I did the U10 relocation and trim today, but am having some trouble with resistance values.

Board after U10 relocation and trim:
IMG_20230714_164024199_HDR.jpg IMG_20230714_164055690_HDR.jpg

Resistance values for the 1.15v rail are much too low, compared to the values reported by someone with the RVL-CPU-01 doing an OM6 trim. Below are the resistance values I'm getting.
omgnold-possible-bad-1v15.png

I've sanded the edges pretty well and removed the components that I think are related to voltage regulation, but I might not have removed everything that needs to be removed. So far I haven't found a picture of the underside of an OMGNOLD trimmed board.

Here are pictures of components near the 1.5v test point and capacitor:
IMG_20230714_164124395.jpgIMG_20230714_164228781.jpg

Does anyone know if something in the above images needs to be removed? For example the resistor array RA9?

Lessons learned:
  • Using hot air to desolder didn't work as well as expected. I couldn't get a component above 160C using hot air, which isn't hot enough to melt solder, even though the set point for the hot air was 450C. I switched to a soldering iron and the Chip Quik SMD removal alloy stuff that melts at a low temperature to get the U5/U9/U10 components removed.
  • I had to switch soldering iron tips from the chisel tip to the bent conical tip when soldering to a via.
  • I also had to use the binocular microscope to see what I was doing when trying to solder to a via.
Next steps:
  • Troubleshoot resistance values
  • Wire up regulators, solder wire connecting 1.8v LDO to capacitor on other side of CPU
  • Gamecube controller port sanding, wiring
  • MX chip sanding, wiring
  • Bluetooth wiring
 
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