Worklog OM6 Wii - GBA SP Build

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Hi all,

So I'm extremely new to this modding scene (about a week) but looking at giving it a go. The plan is a trimmed Wii in a GBA SP form factor. I've seen one done already which is awesome but quite chunky in the hand. Whilst this probably lends itself to more comfortable gaming for an adult I want to try and get as close to possible to the true GBA SP dimensions.

This may well be physically impossible but I want to give it a go. So what do I have already in place you ask (I hope!)

Well, I've got a very first revision OM6 board thats been fully soft modded and working great with BBLoader v1. 1 for Wii and GC with Wii64 v1. 2 for N64 and SNES98GX(?) for SNES. It's using a physical GC controller atm. Added to that is Wii Nunchuck and Wiimote which I may harvest buttons from and also a DS Lite which may be a button and screen donor - possible even case too. If not then I have access to a 3D printer at work and a guy who knows how the hell to use it!

I've been mooching around the forums and guides trying to formulate a plan and being a newbie will inevitably have lots of questions along the way. I'm thinking I'll need GC2.0 board, USB charge, PMS and audio from the store.

My first real question comes regarding the batteries. I see 18650 are recommended or at least heavily used on the whole. But to try and resolve my size restraints I was thinking 2x Switch batteries in parallel. That would give me the 3.7v source with up to 9,200mAh for awesome life.

Am I missing something here that would pose as an immediate blocker? Possibly heat/charging issues?
 

Wesk

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This may well be physically impossible but I want to give it a go.
Yup, simply going by SP case measurements it's going to be impossible.

- To fit two switch batteries would take up almost the entire bottom portion of the case volume-wise.
- A fan and heatsink adequate enough to cool the system would chew up about 3/4 the available height in the bottom part of the case alone.

The only way I see this being potentially possible is by having very tiny batteries, similar to what was used in the KillMii (8 mins of battery life) or no batteries at all.
 

Shank

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May want to find another name, as the Wii SP name was already assumed by Jackson's Wii SP
As for the formfactor, @StonedEdge is currently working on a similar build. He's a very experienced portablizer who has cloned built quite a few portables. He's had to take on some crazy design challenges and trims for this build. A project that compact pushes even an experienced modder like him to their limits. A larger build with more room to breathe is a much better place to start. I wouldn't dive straight into such a crazy ambitious project.
 

StonedEdge

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My first real question comes regarding the batteries. I see 18650 are recommended or at least heavily used on the whole. But to try and resolve my size restraints I was thinking 2x Switch batteries in parallel. That would give me the 3.7v source with up to 9,200mAh for awesome life.
Hi there. Creator of the Wii SPii here (the chunky one you probably saw floating around online). I think it's great that you are thinking of building an even better version than my SPii, but it will be difficult (not impossible, of course) for a first Wii Portable build. As Wesk mentioned, Nintendo Switch lithium ion cells stacked on top of each other is already going to be very thick. On top of that, you'll need to accommodate a custom cooling solution (since the Wii cannot be cooled passively unless you're using some sort of aluminum metal shell) that probably utilizes heat pipes in some form factor. The custom cooling solution in my build (35 x 35 x 7mm) is not exactly thin, but it is the easiest solution to implement. If you take a look at other builds like Aurelio's Pizza 1.5 and Predue89's thin boi, you can see that making thin portables definitely is possible (although Predue's doesn't have any batteries).

The next thing I worry about is your mentioning of using all of the boards from the BitBuilt store for this project. I don't know if you've done any measurements, but fitting a Wii-PMS and USB-C PCB is going to take up a lot of room on the bottom of your case, not leaving much leftover room for other critical components (i.e Wii/cooling/batteries). My board is a custom all-in-one PCB that has everything on it (USB-C PD, battery management, audio amp, GC+ 2.0 controller etc) which allows me to fit it into a small form factor. The main reason for "thicc" is the cooling solution, which you could fix for sure. I'd recommend taking a look at how some laptops use heatpipes to maintain such a thin profile. Even replicating the Nintendo Switch layout for cooling would not be a bad option here either.

I think it's great that you have a concept but executing it under your conditions is probably going to be a little difficult. Unfortunately, battery technology is the limiting factor for powering a Wii in such a small form factor. You could try a single 20700 cell like Gman has used in his previous portables, but then again, it will only last around an hour to 1.5 at best.

Good luck!
 
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Thanks for all the feedback guys!

I'm getting my hands on the DS Lite donor this morning so will look into my vision more over the next few days.

Maybe it's a case of keeping proportions accurate if not dimensions directly (I'm thinking half and half split clamshell - 1 battery in each lid and base perhaps? Depends on the screen thickness)

I'll keep an eye on the other builds mentioned to sneak some hints and tips!

Will get some photos/images posted once I get better prepared

Thanks!
 
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**UPDATE**

So I've been waiting a while for various parts to arrive but been working on the cooling side of things. Taking inspiration from the G-Boy solution I sourced the items separately to match


Parts used:
  • 100x100mm 0.7mm copper sheet - link
  • 30mm x 10mm fan blow - link
  • 9x9mm 5mm aluminium heatsink - link

Work

As the original fan and new fan are different header pin sizes I removed the original board connection and soldered the new fan directly to test it. I was really surprised by how much more powerful (and loud!) the new fan is compared to the original. I think it should do the trick nicely. I then used a dremel to cut the required size of copper sheet which will sit on the CPU & GPU with a mix of thermal adhesive and paste (I found this idea here). Fan will be fixed with epoxy resin and finally the heatsinks added using the same method as the copper plate.

IMG_20200912_121221.jpg
IMG_20200912_121148.jpg
IMG_20200912_124627.jpg

(I may have underestimated the heatsinks but maybe this will improve airflow with proper case exhaust)


Next phase:

I want to make the leap to do the Wii trim next but could do with some clarification on wiring vias. I'm using The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide along with The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide 6-layer Expansion. Do I need to connect every number/colour on the diagrams with the magnet wire? So #1 to #1, purple to purple etc?

Using this method can the ports for original power, GC controller, AV to TV be wired up to test the Wii board after the trim? I see there's colour coding for these components.

Sorry if this bit is more straight forward than I'm imagining!
 

A_s6

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**UPDATE**

So I've been waiting a while for various parts to arrive but been working on the cooling side of things. Taking inspiration from the G-Boy solution I sourced the items separately to match


Parts used:
  • 100x100mm 0.7mm copper sheet - link
  • 30mm x 10mm fan blow - link
  • 9x9mm 5mm aluminium heatsink - link

Work

As the original fan and new fan are different header pin sizes I removed the original board connection and soldered the new fan directly to test it. I was really surprised by how much more powerful (and loud!) the new fan is compared to the original. I think it should do the trick nicely. I then used a dremel to cut the required size of copper sheet which will sit on the CPU & GPU with a mix of thermal adhesive and paste (I found this idea here). Fan will be fixed with epoxy resin and finally the heatsinks added using the same method as the copper plate.

View attachment 14076View attachment 14077View attachment 14078
(I may have underestimated the heatsinks but maybe this will improve airflow with proper case exhaust)


Next phase:

I want to make the leap to do the Wii trim next but could do with some clarification on wiring vias. I'm using The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide along with The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide 6-layer Expansion. Do I need to connect every number/colour on the diagrams with the magnet wire? So #1 to #1, purple to purple etc?

Using this method can the ports for original power, GC controller, AV to TV be wired up to test the Wii board after the trim? I see there's colour coding for these components.

Sorry if this bit is more straight forward than I'm imagining!
1. your cooling solution looks really nice, i love the arrangement of heatsinks! i’m looking forward to see how well it works.
2. about the connections after trimming, you do not need to connect up the spots of the same colors. in the case of purple on AV connections, any trace/via/solder pad labeled that is purple or labeled 17 can output audio left. AFAIK they are internally connected so you don’t need to connect them with magnet wire, you just need to take the output from one spot.
 
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Hi all,

Just a quick check on my trim - can I remove the 2 capacitors(?) shown in the pic? Also confirmation that I've not screwed anything up so far would be great!

IMG_20200915_171031-1.jpg


I'm planning on removing the LDO (using RVL-PMS), removing C1, C2, C6 and U5 chip (U10 removed already) and then soldering U10 in place. Waiting for magnet wire to complete the via.

Contemplating keeping the MX but not sure how much it will be needed in reality - anyone got any experience on if its worthwhile?


Whilst I'm here I might as well share some other updates:

I've got the following components through ready for the controls:
  • 2x D-Pad button flex cable (for d-pad and ABXY buttons) - link
  • 2x Analogue stick caps - link
  • 2x Analogue stick component (lower profile than Switch style sticks) - link
To be sourced:
  • GC+ v2.0 - from BB store
  • Joystick breakout PCB - from BB store

IMG_20200914_104956.jpg



After a crude test the D-Pads have a strange double click feel due to the rubber button seat and the PCB button click itself. This leads me to consider using the DS donor board direct with some custom trimming. I've found the pinouts for each one:
IMG_20200918_111150.jpg


UP - P06
DOWN - P07
LEFT - P05
RIGHT - P04

A - P00
B - P01
X - R00
Y - R01

Thanks!
 

Nold

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You don't need these caps. The upper one is for 5v & idk about the lower one, maybe sensorbar stuff.
 

A_s6

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Hi all,

Just a quick check on my trim - can I remove the 2 capacitors(?) shown in the pic? Also confirmation that I've not screwed anything up so far would be great!

View attachment 14161

I'm planning on removing the LDO (using RVL-PMS), removing C1, C2, C6 and U5 chip (U10 removed already) and then soldering U10 in place. Waiting for magnet wire to complete the via.

Contemplating keeping the MX but not sure how much it will be needed in reality - anyone got any experience on if its worthwhile?


Whilst I'm here I might as well share some other updates:

I've got the following components through ready for the controls:
  • 2x D-Pad button flex cable (for d-pad and ABXY buttons) - link
  • 2x Analogue stick caps - link
  • 2x Analogue stick component (lower profile than Switch style sticks) - link
To be sourced:
  • GC+ v2.0 - from BB store
  • Joystick breakout PCB - from BB store

View attachment 14162


After a crude test the D-Pads have a strange double click feel due to the rubber button seat and the PCB button click itself. This leads me to consider using the DS donor board direct with some custom trimming. I've found the pinouts for each one:
View attachment 14163

UP - P06
DOWN - P07
LEFT - P05
RIGHT - P04

A - P00
B - P01
X - R00
Y - R01

Thanks!
btw the joystick breakouts in the bb store are for joycons, and i don’t think they’ll work with 3ds sliders. overall, joycon sticks are better in terms of comfort and ease of use, and iirc in the end they’re basically the same size. i’d recommend using those. they’re also available in the bb store
 

StonedEdge

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btw the joystick breakouts in the bb store are for joycons, and i don’t think they’ll work with 3ds sliders. overall, joycon sticks are better in terms of comfort and ease of use, and iirc they’re basically the same size. i’d recommend using those. they’re also available in the bb store
If the OP is trying to achieve original SP thickness, there is no way he is going to do so by using switch analogs in a clamshell. I’d recommend using sliders if you’re trying to keep it thin. Switch analogs will require a significant recess in the case to get them to rotate the full 360 degrees.
 

A_s6

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If you’re tryi


If the OP is trying to achieve original SP thickness, there is no way he is going to do so by using switch analogs in a clamshell. I’d recommend using sliders if you’re trying to keep it thin. Switch analogs will require a significant recess in the case to get them to rotate the full 360 degrees.
oh damn, my bad! sorry about that, i kind of forgot the theme of the build O.o
 

Stitches

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**UPDATE**

So I've been waiting a while for various parts to arrive but been working on the cooling side of things. Taking inspiration from the G-Boy solution I sourced the items separately to match


Parts used:
  • 100x100mm 0.7mm copper sheet - link
  • 30mm x 10mm fan blow - link
  • 9x9mm 5mm aluminium heatsink - link

Work

As the original fan and new fan are different header pin sizes I removed the original board connection and soldered the new fan directly to test it. I was really surprised by how much more powerful (and loud!) the new fan is compared to the original. I think it should do the trick nicely. I then used a dremel to cut the required size of copper sheet which will sit on the CPU & GPU with a mix of thermal adhesive and paste (I found this idea here). Fan will be fixed with epoxy resin and finally the heatsinks added using the same method as the copper plate.

View attachment 14076View attachment 14077View attachment 14078
(I may have underestimated the heatsinks but maybe this will improve airflow with proper case exhaust)


Next phase:

I want to make the leap to do the Wii trim next but could do with some clarification on wiring vias. I'm using The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide along with The Definitive Wii Trimming Guide 6-layer Expansion. Do I need to connect every number/colour on the diagrams with the magnet wire? So #1 to #1, purple to purple etc?

Using this method can the ports for original power, GC controller, AV to TV be wired up to test the Wii board after the trim? I see there's colour coding for these components.

Sorry if this bit is more straight forward than I'm imagining!
There is no way in slowy hell those dinky little VRM sinks are going to adequately cool a 6 layer Wii. You need a proper 30x30 or 35x35 heatsink minimum
 
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There is no way in slowy hell those dinky little VRM sinks are going to adequately cool a 6 layer Wii. You need a proper 30x30 or 35x35 heatsink minimum
Yeah I think it may fall short. I did have a test run of Super Mario Galaxy for over an hour and it was fine. That was in open air. The fan is much stronger than the stock though and gives a very 'feel-able' breeze. So much so that I'm concerned about noise. With proper channeling I reckon it could work.

That said, I will probably swap it for a larger one on the final build though.
 
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Think I've killed the U10 relocation.... it was so clean with the exception of one pad

IMG_20200919_111510-1.jpg


Is this salvageable? :oops:
 

Stitches

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Yeah that's fine, the ground pads are all connected
 
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When you say that's fine do you mean
  • It's fine there shouldn't be one there anyway
  • It's fine because all the pads are connected (elsewhere)
Thanks for the confirmation though! I was proper sulking about it being a write off.

David's morale has increased! :D
 

StonedEdge

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When you say that's fine do you mean
  • It's fine there shouldn't be one there anyway
  • It's fine because all the pads are connected (elsewhere)
Thanks for the confirmation though! I was proper sulking about it being a write off.

David's morale has increased! :D
Yep, that u10 will be fine! I’d highly, highly, highly recommend switching over to a 4-layer Wii for this project. I know you’re adamant on using a 6 layer, but you’re really shooting yourself in the foot by doing so. Heat generation is almost double that of a 4 layer, and battery life is going to be minimal with an OM6 trim. It’s up to you of course, but I would never make a portable with a 6 layer Wii, particularly something as difficult as the project you’re trying to do!
 
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Yep, that u10 will be fine! I’d highly, highly, highly recommend switching over to a 4-layer Wii for this project. I know you’re adamant on using a 6 layer, but you’re really shooting yourself in the foot by doing so. Heat generation is almost double that of a 4 layer, and battery life is going to be minimal with an OM6 trim. It’s up to you of course, but I would never make a portable with a 6 layer Wii, particularly something as difficult as the project you’re trying to do!
Funny you should say that, I've been considering this today. I don't have much cash at the mo so wanted to avoid buying a Wii as this is my only unit.

I've since had a thought of another project which I might use this for instead and then do a 4 layer for this later.

I might park this one for now and start the other build - more info to come!
 
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