Worklog Odyssey 64

Pacal

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Is been awhile since I posted something here but I think this is the right time to do it again.

I'm doing a N64P, first thing i did was to turn on the N64 to make sure it works good, I played a few games without any problem.
F98CEF62-DCAA-4C63-9554-E9736A1E94AD.jpeg

next thing was to swap the ram with 2 4mb,I used hot air and it went really good
6EA107A0-59A2-4B92-BF3D-AD960AFE907A.jpeg

here's one of the expansion pack ready for surgery
2D968C7B-CD2C-4817-9134-F01662E75589.jpeg
once I finished removing the rams from the expansion pack I installed them on the N64, it work on the first try
0F4BE4A1-D998-416D-A8C8-93A75D0D309B.jpeg

Some time ago I saw one of @Akira post where he removed the jumper pack port and put the components from the jumper pack directly in the board so I did the same thing but instead of removing all the components from the jumper pack I keep them there and I only trimmed the part I needed
Here’s before and after I removed the port

BA576FB5-C62F-4284-B84A-667003C4B86D.jpeg590F7C0B-1491-4B14-AD66-CF5B7DFB63BF.jpeg

And here’s the jumper pack trimmed
0791FE40-89B6-498F-AD4D-AD7F2D3DD993.jpeg

next thing that I did was to remove al the traces where the port was
here's after removing the traces and cleaning the board
2015_0619_093607_001.JPG2015_0619_094502_002.JPG
i took the jumper pack trimmed board and sanded it from the bottom until i was able to see the green layer
2015_0606_001611_003.JPG

after i sanded the JP board i was ready to put it into the N64, i scratch off some of the green layer from the N64 to expose the copper on the traces that i need to solder the JP.
i connected ground from the two squares pads from the N64 that also helped me to hold the board in place since i didn't want to put any glue on it to hold the JP board
2015_0620_022427_001.JPG2015_0620_032302_002.JPG
once i secure the JP board i put some solder on the traces that i scratched and i started to solder the wires
2015_0620_041207_003.JPG2015_0620_050855_004.JPG
its not an easy thing to do this, so if you don't have experience soldering things i don't recommend doing this.
i connected three more wires, two on the front and one on the back as you can see here
IMG_E2007.JPG

and here's the one on the back
IMG_2006.JPG
and again i copied all this from @Akira post so all the credits for this go to him.
Here are the results.
IMG_2008.JPG

I played a few games for a few minutes and i didn't have any problem.
probably tomorrow im going to remove everything else from the N64 board and if i have time i`ll start to trimming the board ,im going to do the Pif relocation too.
i still have a N64 PMS that i bought long time ago (i hope still works) if not then i have to use something else, for audio i have some 64 Amp boards but i cant find all the components right now almost everything is out of order, for video i have a ultra vga that possibly im going to use with a 5 inch screen and for batteries i have two 18650 samsung.
for the case im gonna 3d print it, i don't thing im going to paint it i don't want to waste time doing it, im not good painting things.
i guess that's all for now, sorry if i spell something wrong, im still learning English :)
 
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Dude! That JP trim relocation is so clean and crisp! Nice job on that. I have not seen it done that way before. I first saw the pakless termination from Akira and then Yveltal before taking it on myself. We all just manually hand relocated each passive on a buss wire. I’m glad to see this tidy way you pulled it off! So cool…

Yveltal suggested I push the unit when testing the termination relocation on an intensive game like Perfect Dark or another later boundary pushing expansion pak game.

You’re lucky to have an UltraVga. I am putting together some n64advanced vga boards later this month if you end up needing one for your project. Eventually I’m gonna redesign the board for FFC cables (or just integrate it into my mobo redesign)
I do hope to be able to try out an ultra one day though.

Looking forward to seeing your progress
 

Pacal

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Dude! That JP trim relocation is so clean and crisp! Nice job on that. I have not seen it done that way before. I first saw the pakless termination from Akira and then Yveltal before taking it on myself. We all just manually hand relocated each passive on a buss wire. I’m glad to see this tidy way you pulled it off! So cool…
Thanks man, the relocation of the JP is way easier this way you don't have to desolder all those tiny components you just need to sand the board a little bit and that's it.
I am putting together some n64advanced vga boards later this month if you end up needing one for your project.
Yeah I would love to get one, let me know when you finish the boards
Showin off that Sculptor's Cut, lol.
:D I just did it to show that I trust the way i did the JP relocation, to be honest i like the other clay fighter better than this one.
 

Pacal

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Update!

I removed everything that I didn’t needed it and i started to trim the board, I used a cutter knife to do it instead of a dremel, I didn’t wanted to hit the Jp by accident with the dremel,it took some time to trim the board but I think It went well
C887B613-A4E2-4D69-A262-8F06BACA3751.jpeg

after sanded the board i was ready to do the Pif relocation
7AB49B65-C5AD-46C5-9837-013F201246AE.jpeg

i decided to leave this traces to connect them to the Pif board ,which is 1,3 and 5, to me is easy to do it this way instead of solder them to the cartridge port pins
B0F63CAC-A8D7-4D89-83D2-CD5D916BF369.jpeg

1AF3AC05-72B3-4D2F-BC7E-4B3A14E18834.jpeg

and here's the board after the relocation
2B504B7A-E70D-49D3-940E-99B7C6C6D60E.jpeg

7FDD7F0B-15B1-45B8-B42B-6808D67AC2FA.jpeg

i scratched this traces to expose the copper to solder some of the wires from the Pif, i soldered one of the wires on the wrong trace but later i fix it.
A150ED00-9A16-44D4-B580-3F6A8EAEDBAC.jpeg

916C3467-D8DB-41A2-ABCC-1D6A31938A13.jpeg
and here are the results after trimming, sanding , relocating and soldering all this wires.
B7652C3E-18BF-421F-9434-30399A03353A.jpeg

im so happy that this is going really well, i don't think im going to use the 64 PMS i had some problems with it so instead of that im using a RVL-PMS-LITE,
PMS-PD 2 and probably the U-amp 2 from 4Layer since i don't think im going to get the components that i need for the 64 Amp on time from DigiKey.

probably for my next Update it will be the Ultra VGA.
Ok that's all for today.
7E07B42B-9585-4831-A838-33834CD5B065.jpeg
 

Pacal

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Update!!

i finished wiring the Ultra VGA ,I was really careful not to mess it up since I only have one, I started soldering the wires to the RCP chip ,I passed them through the holes in the board just to make the wiring to look more clean
CB9D1474-87E7-4B35-A69D-23D51A7E2C24.jpeg

0BB42BE0-39CA-4199-9966-9462B1F72242.jpeg

here's how the wires look under the board
2FA47D69-1E6C-446E-8FFD-CCCDC39DE41F.jpeg

after passing the wires through the holes i started to solder them to the Ultra VGA
C461B366-6914-4BCD-B725-F7219D18D167.jpeg

E344FF7B-0D9F-4C57-9D0E-05AF33D4B398.jpeg

i got my RVL-PMS LITE a few days ago after received it i connected it to the N64, i didn't have not image at first so i thought maybe one of the wires was connected wrong but after checking everything didn't find nothing wrong with the wires so i put another game and it work, it seem that it was the first game that i put, wasn't making good contact
CCE4709B-3603-4CCB-8AE4-6A76CF45C227.jpeg

CD22E337-F9DE-495B-9419-1C785EC94A43.jpeg

I do have one question about the RVL-PMS LITE LED maybe someone can answer it for me, does the Led have to turn on when you turn the RVL PMS on or only does it when the Battery is low? I remember the old PMS the Led used to turn on at the same time, I ask because after wiring the Led to the PMS LITE not once the LED turn on ,i followed the guide at 4 LAYER to use a standard LED and the same thing happen.

Now that i have finished this, is time to design the case and the controllers, that's gonna be in my next Update, this is all for now.
 

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Stitches

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Update!!

i finished wiring the Ultra VGA ,I was really careful not to mess it up since I only have one, I started soldering the wires to the RCP chip ,I passed them through the holes in the board just to make the wiring to look more clean
View attachment 23233
View attachment 23234
here's how the wires look under the board
View attachment 23232
after passing the wires through the holes i started to solder them to the Ultra VGA
View attachment 23231
View attachment 23229
i got my RVL-PMS LITE a few days ago after received it i connected it to the N64, i didn't have not image at first so i thought maybe one of the wires was connected wrong but after checking everything didn't find nothing wrong with the wires so i put another game and it work, it seem that it was the first game that i put, wasn't making good contact
View attachment 23225
View attachment 23224
I do have one question about the RVL-PMS LITE LED maybe someone can answer it for me, does the Led have to turn on when you turn the RVL PMS on or only does it when the Battery is low? I remember the old PMS the Led used to turn on at the same time, I ask because after wiring the Led to the PMS LITE not once the LED turn on ,i followed the guide at 4 LAYER to use a standard LED and the same thing happen.

Now that i have finished this, is time to design the case and the controllers, that's gonna be in my next Update, this is all for now.
Most functions of the PMS are configurable through RVLoader. You might need to wire that to a Wii to set the LED behaviour up
 
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I believe it comes configured for a standard LED out of the box. So just wire up an led with a resistor in series (follow pms lite website documentation) and you should have some power indication. If you want the rgb vibes you gotta listen to what stitches was saying and wire up a wii. It’s just two wires for i2c
 

Pacal

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Thank you both for answering my question, Im going to try the Standard Led first and see if I can make it work otherwise I’ll get myself a Wii and do it that way.
 
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You can get away with not trimming the wii too. Just install rvloader and connect the two i2c wires. Wiimote works too. Just hold b trigger and use dpad to select Settings and go to power, Change the led to addressable. Some times DI and DO are swapped around so if it does not work off the bat swap those leads.
 

Pacal

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You can get away with not trimming the wii too. Just install rvloader and connect the two i2c wires. Wiimote works too. Just hold b trigger and use dpad to select Settings and go to power, Change the led to addressable. Some times DI and DO are swapped around so if it does not work off the bat swap those leads.
i have installed rvloader on my wii and i connect the two i2wires but it doesn't give me power option on the settings it only shows Loader, Controller, About and status, i have the PMS lite connected to the battery so i know that is on, am i missing something?
 

Pacal

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Update!!!

After spending many...many hours in front of my computer i finally finish the case (still have to fix a couple things but the case is pretty much done)

first i designed the case very simple, i already had an idea how i wanted it the only thing that i didn't like was how it looked the back, i didn't wanted to have just like a box for the cartridge, i needed it to be more round from the back, i tried in many ways to do it and after hours i finally got it the way i wanted it.
Here's the result.

started looking like this
N64 case 1.1 back side.jpg

N64 case 1.1.jpg

And it end it looking like this
N64 contest final case front 2022.jpg

N64 contest final case back 2022.jpg

N64 contest final case side 2022.jpg

one of the things that it took me more time was to find the right place to put the Z button, because of the way i did the back, it didn't let me make a hole on top first but after awhile i was able to do it.
i got some pictures from the inside too, you can see the way its gonna look the custom pcb for the controller, the buttons and the rest, im going to design a Pcb for the cartridge port and the N64 board so i can use a flexible flat cable ribbon that way i don't have to wire every single pin to the port
N64 contest final case 2022.jpgN64 contest final case back side 2022.jpgN64 contest final case left side 2022.jpgN64 contest final case right side 2022.jpgN64 contest final case R B 2022.jpgN64 contest final case Z B 2022.jpg
i almost forgot to mention that i also made the dust cover doors as you can see in the pictures ,im going to use the springs from the original cover doors from the N64.

I'm going to work on the controllers in the next days and also print the case, i still don't know what colors to use for it, im going to print the case in two colors ,the back will be different color than the front.
that's all for now thanks for watching.
 

Pacal

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I'm back with another update!!

I finished designing the control a couple weeks ago and the Pcb for the cartridge and the other one for the N64 Board , after a week i received all of them and they look pretty good i think, here's the controller, the joystick and the other two
E15BE824-B34F-49B7-84D6-E46A4F2DF765.jpeg

this is the joystick that im using for this
554B7008-23E5-4FC4-B543-67A7A8762C02.jpeg

4C9D5834-5B7D-4F8E-93B2-544584028DF9.jpeg

i soldered the Pcb on the N64 board and the other one to the cartridge
here i soldered two pins first just to hold the Pcb, i forgot to mention that this is the first time that i solder a flat cable connector and let me tell you...i hate it luckily i saw a few videos on youtube on how to do it but i know i need more practice with this.
i have to wait also for the flat cable to connect the N64 to the Cartridge and see if everything works ( I really hope that it works)
7D26B896-F868-4422-A5B5-9C55D8C2E8D8.jpeg

i had to cut a little piece of plastic on the cartridge port otherwise it was going to be on top of the cable connector and wouldn't be able to open the connector
DF467922-9D12-4C1A-AE5C-5BBDEA46E2CF.jpeg

after i finished with this i started working on the controller, i soldered all the buttons the Nus Chip and the Fram chip, and after i finished i connected the controller to another N64 to get the memory working and it did
C1EA9BB2-4877-485A-B74C-D5E28DEB5AFC.jpeg

having finished the controller and the memory i started working on the settings to print the case, since the back has a BIG curve i have to change a lot of settings in the supports i tried using Prusa Slicer but didn't go well, the quality is good on the walls and the rest but that curve it doesn't do a good job i had to put the supports really close to the case to get better results but the supports blended with the case and they were really hard to remove so i decided to used Cura and for my surprise it did a better job than Prusa Slicer, i did also change the settings and it was easy to get better results, the time for printing the back of case didn't change that much but what's important is that it looks better
Here's the case with the colors that i chose
ABD9AFC3-4574-42E6-8EAD-9E2CD6DEBACB.jpeg

826FDD2F-5802-49A3-A336-E8B2CB54C31C.jpeg

FA250E02-B25F-4A61-A60C-94A362040715.jpeg

sadly i have to print the back of the case again because i forgot to add something but nothing is gonna change from the outside the way it looks here that's the same way its going to stay.
ok this is all for now im going to finish printing the buttons, the D-pad and install the controller and the Screen on the front case also im made a small pcb for the buttons of the volume its not here yet but i will put a picture in my next update
Thanks for watching.

(sorry if a spelled something wrong)
 

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I'm back with another update!!

I finished designing the control a couple weeks ago and the Pcb for the cartridge and the other one for the N64 Board , after a week i received all of them and they look pretty good i think, here's the controller, the joystick and the other two
View attachment 23656
this is the joystick that im using for this
View attachment 23657
View attachment 23658
i soldered the Pcb on the N64 board and the other one to the cartridge
here i soldered two pins first just to hold the Pcb, i forgot to mention that this is the first time that i solder a flat cable connector and let me tell you...i hate it luckily i saw a few videos on youtube on how to do it but i know i need more practice with this.
i have to wait also for the flat cable to connect the N64 to the Cartridge and see if everything works ( I really hope that it works)
View attachment 23659
i had to cut a little piece of plastic on the cartridge port otherwise it was going to be on top of the cable connector and wouldn't be able to open the connector
View attachment 23669
after i finished with this i started working on the controller, i soldered all the buttons the Nus Chip and the Fram chip, and after i finished i connected the controller to another N64 to get the memory working and it did
View attachment 23660
having finished the controller and the memory i started working on the settings to print the case, since the back has a BIG curve i have to change a lot of settings in the supports i tried using Prusa Slicer but didn't go well, the quality is good on the walls and the rest but that curve it doesn't do a good job i had to put the supports really close to the case to get better results but the supports blended with the case and they were really hard to remove so i decided to used Cura and for my surprise it did a better job than Prusa Slicer, i did also change the settings and it was easy to get better results, the time for printing the back of case didn't change that much but what's important is that it looks better
Here's the case with the colors that i chose
View attachment 23661
View attachment 23663
View attachment 23664
sadly i have to print the back of the case again because i forgot to add something but nothing is gonna change from the outside the way it looks here that's the same way its going to stay.
ok this is all for now im going to finish printing the buttons, the D-pad and install the controller and the Screen on the front case also im made a small pcb for the buttons of the volume its not here yet but i will put a picture in my next update
Thanks for watching.

(sorry if a spelled something wrong)
I think this might have been enough for you to get my vote! AMAZING job!
 
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