Worklog O-Wii First benge portable wii

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That looks good!
I had some issues with the joysticks when the gnd cables were to long.
You could try to calibrate the joysticks with the GC+ calibrator soft in BBLoader.
You can change the window to get the homebrews in the config file of bbloader.
There is also an issue that a guy had with the connector, the contacts were not on the right side.
 

Benge

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4 : O-Wii (V1,V2,V2.1)/ BS2
Thanks @Emetsys for your help.
I have tested the connexion between the joystick (the left and the right, all resistors) and the connector and all connection and it Work.
But when I connect to the GC+ 2.0 it doesn't work ...
20201207_230433.jpg


I have nothing so I cannot calibrate the joystick :/
I have tried to inverse all connexion and it doesn't work too :angry:
I have programmed again the GC+ 2.0 but nothing again (only the button work) ...

:oops::facepalm:
 

xsping

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Thanks @Emetsys for your help.
I have tested the connexion between the joystick (the left and the right, all resistors) and the connector and all connection and it Work.
But when I connect to the GC+ 2.0 it doesn't work ...
View attachment 15218

I have nothing so I cannot calibrate the joystick :/
I have tried to inverse all connexion and it doesn't work too :angry:
I have programmed again the GC+ 2.0 but nothing again (only the button work) ...

:oops::facepalm:
two joysticks should be together connected to GC+ to function them properly
 
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Nice project. When you're ready, I'm interested in the fusion files. I was doing the louii, but seeing yours, made me decide on a 7in screen.
 

Benge

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4 : O-Wii (V1,V2,V2.1)/ BS2
News from the O-Wii after a long time of nothing :D
I decided to completely redo V1.2 and go to V1.3 or rather V2 because the improvements will really be better.

I am currently working on some v1 (and V1.2) Issues which are :
1 - We do not distinguish very well the two states of buttons L and R.
2 - Too much wire.
3 - Internal layout not optimized.
4 - Lots of adjustment at the holes in the CAD.
5 - Too much glued tact.
6 - Of course I have forgotten some things ...

And I think we can upgrade to a V2, here are some improvements that I would like to integrate :
1 - IPS screen (a must have <3) 7" ips are really bigger, so unfortunately I don't want to make a bigger portable.
/ maybe a thin normal screen (I have found a very thin 7" screen)
2 - Custom PCBs with DS lite Pad and Joy con Joystick.
3 - Optimized layout
4 - Better L R feeling
5 - More simple to dismount and repair (less glue).
6 - Maybe possible in Kit !?

So to solve all this here is what I'm working on right now :

I have managed to integrate my new custom PCBs, I have modified my CAD and printed some tests and everything seems to go well, with that I would have a lot (a lot²) less wire, a faster assembly, and of course the true DS lite touch :
20201228_225253.jpg
20201228_225111.jpg
20201228_225150.jpg


The second thing I would like to share with you is the improved feel of the L and R buttons.
Instead of using a single button which at two pressure levels I am using two buttons, a squisshy then a harder one, with this method the touch looks really good, we can distinguish the two states much better !
20201228_225217 (2).jpg


The next step will be to review the internal layout of each component to optimize all of this (And of course adjustments, test print, adjustment ...).

I think I will go to post the V1 in the Cutting Edges and start another Worklog for the V2 :rothink:
 
Last edited:
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Ooo the project is looking good. And i definetly like the dual input solution for the shoulder buttons.
 
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5 - Screen board modification :

I didn't say it above, the screen I will be using is a 7 inch screen which comes with a card supporting RCA, HDMI and of course VGA :)
The card that goes with this screen has a lot of thick components and is also quite wide.
View attachment 13901
To be able to use it I first removed all the ports, because I don't need them.

Then after many research on the components that compose this board I have see that the board can be powered with only 3.3V :
The board takes 5V as input and the LM2576 using the big coil and capacitors forms a buck converter (red area) which delivers 3.3V to the RTD2660 and this 3.3V is used to power the PT4103 wich is a boost converter specially for the display backlight LED (blue area).

It's great the whole card can therefore be powered only in 3.3V :D
So I obviously removed all the buck converter part since I would feed the card directly with the WII PMS.
To further reduce the thickness I replaced the 22uH inductor that the PT4103 used with an SMD that I found on an old electronic board.
I also trim the board, it was not necessarily necessary but it takes less space and weight and it's funny to see how far we can shrink it ;)
View attachment 13904View attachment 13905

The card is now very thin (4,5mm), but the quartz is too bulky so I replaced it with an thin SMD (same frequency 27Mhz).
View attachment 13906View attachment 13908
Of course everithing work fine :)

I would like to know if the controller board heats up a lot because I want to make a laptop using a notebook board with a 7 inch screen
 
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