Question No video, first portable problem.

Discussion in 'Nintendo 64' started by Luis Mendonça, May 15, 2019 at 11:26 PM.

  1. Luis Mendonça .

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    Hello everyone! I asked about the ntsc to pal m conversion around here before, and still on that board, I finally received a great many deal of things to try out and start building my own portable.

    To the point, when I connect power I get the correct voltage on every pin and chip I could check, the rts cpu and ram heat up but i get no video.
    For the 3.3 voltage regulator I'm using a DNS mini 360 which is rated to output 1.7A, I thought it could be the problem, but 1.7A should be ok, I guess.

    The battery is working, and I rechecked every soldering and voltage on the board (hundreds times lol), but I cant see where I might have gone wrong, or what else to check. Maybe it's the conversion? I desoldered it from the board and yet didn't solder a new oscillator, even though I think the one on the board is it's original one. Also checked the cartridge connections for anything soldered wrong, it's a lot of solder points, but they are all correct.

    Also checked not only on my portable screen but on a TV, soldering a cable to the board. What I didn't check out yet is continuity from the composite chip pin to the pin that goes out of the board, but apart from this, any more suggestion I could check?

    Attached are some images, of how I soldered the power pins, the on and off switch and reset, maybe I got those wrong? Who knows, but the chips get warm so I assumed not. The reset connection I got from an old bacman file, what happened to him btw?

    Let me know if I missed any information to be helpful here. Cheers!

    EDIT: Today when I went to test it again, now the screen is flashing. Yesterday I also forgot to mention I checked the ram expansion aswell as using a jumper pak. Same results.

    [​IMG]
    (Had to upload to imgur because the file uploaded here is not working for this.)
    The same happens when I hook the cable to the composite on the enc chip directly.

    20190515_182118.jpg 20190515_180910.jpg 20190515_180903.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 16, 2019 at 3:17 PM
  2. The_Smeags .

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    To confirm if the regulator works try using the original power supply since it has both lines

    Also, I'm not sure if the converter boards the issue, did it work before you soldered anything to the 64?
    And if the screens flashing I'd say it's your carts slot relocation
    I'm pretty sure I've seen one of my boards do that with the screen
    If you're out of options I'd try redoing the cart slot
     
  3. Stitches 2 and a Half Dollarydoos Staff Member . . .

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    Those chinesium regulators very rarely work correctly, if at all. They also have a tendency to legit catch fire, so I'd swap that out for a Texas Instruments PTH08080W. They're the officially recommended regulators for portables and really the only ones we use outside of custom SMD solutions.
     
  4. Luis Mendonça .

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    Yeah, I think we could narrow it down to two variables here, as you guys said, that regulator is not trustworthy at all, so it most likely is the culprit, but I don't have a PSU to test it out. What I could test out was on another board which was working, so I hooked up my battery setup and the ED64 plus cart and the result was the same (Without the white flashes), and on a normal tv with a N64 cable.

    So it either is the regulator (90% sure it is) or the cartridge. About the cart slot soldering, I did redo it on the upper side of the board and checked everything again, but I guess it was done correctly, hope my faith in my soldering skills are not misplaced lol, but it was all checking out.

    About the PTH08080W, I really hope there was a viable substitute to it, it's impossible to find in my country and with shipping plus taxes it will cost around 40 dollars each to import! Is that price tag correct?
     
  5. Stitches 2 and a Half Dollarydoos Staff Member . . .

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    Depends on where you live. I live in Australia and I have to import them as well. They cost me $10-$15 AUD each and shipping ranges up to $30 AUD, unless I order enough parts from Digikey to qualify for free shipping. You can use the google currency converter to work out if that's inline with your local currency cost.
     

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