Question No video, first portable problem.

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Hello everyone! I asked about the ntsc to pal m conversion around here before, and still on that board, I finally received a great many deal of things to try out and start building my own portable.

To the point, when I connect power I get the correct voltage on every pin and chip I could check, the rts cpu and ram heat up but i get no video.
For the 3.3 voltage regulator I'm using a DNS mini 360 which is rated to output 1.7A, I thought it could be the problem, but 1.7A should be ok, I guess.

The battery is working, and I rechecked every soldering and voltage on the board (hundreds times lol), but I cant see where I might have gone wrong, or what else to check. Maybe it's the conversion? I desoldered it from the board and yet didn't solder a new oscillator, even though I think the one on the board is it's original one. Also checked the cartridge connections for anything soldered wrong, it's a lot of solder points, but they are all correct.

Also checked not only on my portable screen but on a TV, soldering a cable to the board. What I didn't check out yet is continuity from the composite chip pin to the pin that goes out of the board, but apart from this, any more suggestion I could check?

Attached are some images, of how I soldered the power pins, the on and off switch and reset, maybe I got those wrong? Who knows, but the chips get warm so I assumed not. The reset connection I got from an old bacman file, what happened to him btw?

Let me know if I missed any information to be helpful here. Cheers!

EDIT: Today when I went to test it again, now the screen is flashing. Yesterday I also forgot to mention I checked the ram expansion aswell as using a jumper pak. Same results.


(Had to upload to imgur because the file uploaded here is not working for this.)
The same happens when I hook the cable to the composite on the enc chip directly.

20190515_182118.jpg 20190515_180910.jpg 20190515_180903.jpg
 
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To confirm if the regulator works try using the original power supply since it has both lines

Also, I'm not sure if the converter boards the issue, did it work before you soldered anything to the 64?
And if the screens flashing I'd say it's your carts slot relocation
I'm pretty sure I've seen one of my boards do that with the screen
If you're out of options I'd try redoing the cart slot
 

Stitches

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Those chinesium regulators very rarely work correctly, if at all. They also have a tendency to legit catch fire, so I'd swap that out for a Texas Instruments PTH08080W. They're the officially recommended regulators for portables and really the only ones we use outside of custom SMD solutions.
 
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Yeah, I think we could narrow it down to two variables here, as you guys said, that regulator is not trustworthy at all, so it most likely is the culprit, but I don't have a PSU to test it out. What I could test out was on another board which was working, so I hooked up my battery setup and the ED64 plus cart and the result was the same (Without the white flashes), and on a normal tv with a N64 cable.

So it either is the regulator (90% sure it is) or the cartridge. About the cart slot soldering, I did redo it on the upper side of the board and checked everything again, but I guess it was done correctly, hope my faith in my soldering skills are not misplaced lol, but it was all checking out.

About the PTH08080W, I really hope there was a viable substitute to it, it's impossible to find in my country and with shipping plus taxes it will cost around 40 dollars each to import! Is that price tag correct?
 

Stitches

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Yeah, I think we could narrow it down to two variables here, as you guys said, that regulator is not trustworthy at all, so it most likely is the culprit, but I don't have a PSU to test it out. What I could test out was on another board which was working, so I hooked up my battery setup and the ED64 plus cart and the result was the same (Without the white flashes), and on a normal tv with a N64 cable.

So it either is the regulator (90% sure it is) or the cartridge. About the cart slot soldering, I did redo it on the upper side of the board and checked everything again, but I guess it was done correctly, hope my faith in my soldering skills are not misplaced lol, but it was all checking out.

About the PTH08080W, I really hope there was a viable substitute to it, it's impossible to find in my country and with shipping plus taxes it will cost around 40 dollars each to import! Is that price tag correct?
Depends on where you live. I live in Australia and I have to import them as well. They cost me $10-$15 AUD each and shipping ranges up to $30 AUD, unless I order enough parts from Digikey to qualify for free shipping. You can use the google currency converter to work out if that's inline with your local currency cost.
 
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I see, I actually didn't know about mouser, I was only looking for digikey, shipping there to Brazil is always expensive, 50 dollars. Cant blame them, my country is a mess.
I successfully bought those parts from mouser btw.

Anyways, the regulator was not the culprit, (Don't mind the mess here please, I'm with very limited space around), but instead the cartridge. Here it's me testing the board I know that was working:

20190519_101842.jpg

And here testing my original board.
20190519_104520.jpg
As you can see, again no video. Which brings me to more questions:

1 Could really be my wiring?

2 Are these power jumpers in their correct position?
20190519_104444.jpg 20190519_104439.jpg

3 This board is really long gone?
Probably


4 Maybe it's my portable screen?
No I tested it on my big screen with a stripped cable.

Took me long enough to find a cartridge to test, unfortunelly.
 

E64

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Unbridge the pin that's at the rest button that's probably causing it not to boot
 

E64

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Yes the only thing you want to be jump is the power switch if the reset button is jump to ground it's just like holding down the reset button it if you get what I'm saying
 
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Oh ok. Thought the jumper was to let the current flow, and the switch was supposed to cut the flow, as soon as I can I will desolder it and test it out, so it's one less problem out of the way.
 
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