Worklog NES 2 C U - 2018 Summer Contest Entry

Discussion in 'Other' started by fibbef, May 9, 2018.

  1. fibbef Digimon World Completer . .

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    Ok, it's time to get my 2018 contest submission underway! For my entry I will be dipping largely into my spare parts to make a fairly simple portable. In this case, I have the NES portion of a damaged Retron 3 that I would like to portablize.

    Wow. Building a NOAC portable for a competition that will likely be dominated by Wii portables?
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    First and foremost: the name I've chosen for this project is intentionally the most horrible pun name for a portable ever. I won't explain it right now, but I will shed some clarity on it as this project progresses. (Unless someone guesses its meaning before then.)

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    As mentioned, I'll be using the NES portion of a Retron 3 that I damaged about 6 years ago. In trying to get this up and running again, I thought I knew where to supply those precious 5V to power it on. I was wrong. But thanks to a guide I had written about 4 years ago on how to use this board (and no thanks to Photobucket :angry:) I found the correct spot for 5V input.

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    There's really nothing special about this board. Just that I had it on hand and that it would probably be much easier to revive than the NOAC I had mangled even earlier in my modding career. The plan is to remove the large components that I won't need (RCA jacks, s-vid jack, power, that switch that I can't remember what it does). Board trimming is pretty unnecessary, but I probably will relocate the cart slot.

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    Proof that it's not dead. I don't have ALL the details planned out yet, but I will be using one of those buy-one-get-one-free 3.5" ebay screens that so many people have started picking up. Batteries will be a rechargeable camcorder battery pack that I have lying around and that I've used in all my portables to date. The pack is 7.4V and I'm hoping I can power the NOAC from a lower voltage tapped from the screen's board. Otherwise I will have to incorporate a 7805 or pth08080.
     
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  2. Doom Modelrater Staff Member . . . Estmemed Member

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  3. fibbef Digimon World Completer . .

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    I went out and bought a brand new $10 3rd party controller with no bells and whistles. (related link) I picked it because it looked very similar to the old 1st party controllers and so far I've had good luck with the SNES lookalike controllers. This one, not so much. The down button is really touchy and the A button sticks from time to time. If these continue to act up after I've torn the controller apart, I'm swapping it for something else.

    Anyway, I tried the logical approach for wiring up the controller; i.e. following the traces from the Retron 3 controller connector through the main board to the NES sub-board. It didn't go well. So I went back to the 2014 guide I made and it had the answers. I'm posting it here for posterity.

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    Although I know for a fact that I took that first picture, I don't claim to be the source of the information. There's no "I just found that..." moment here. Honestly, I can't remember where I found that pinout. Again, this was 4 years ago. The second image I brought up on Google half an hour ago just so my notation of "P1 #4" makes sense.

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    This is my very first experience with magnet wire ever. Good stuff. I'll redo the wiring to make it shorter later on. Right now I just want to test that everything works.

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    And so far everything works! In this pic I have the NOAC powered from a Blackberry USB charger and the screen powered from a PSone power adapter. I tried powering the NOAC from one of the screen board's components that output ~4.1V. While both items powered on, the draw was too much for the screen and the image would cut out from time to time. The NOAC was just fine though because my game never reset. Regulators it is, then.
     
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