Solved my wii has 6 layers,displays a black or gray screen.

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my Wii has 6 layers, show black or gray screen.
I don't understand. when I power my pth08080, my wii is detected and the screen displays NTSC but with a black or gray screen. CPU and GPU heat up, I have 3.3v output and input for u10. someone can help me.
 

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I'm using a USB C power plug with an Apple phone charger
Read the text on the charger. If it says "5v 1a" then it will never work. 4 layers wiis consume up to ten watts, while 6 layers consume even more. That charger can only supply 5 watts.
Try using a different power source. A good one is the stock wii power brick. If you have the wii pcb scrap you can remove the power port and use that.
 
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I'm using a USB C power plug with an Apple phone charger
That also looks like one of those USB c decoy board that can grab a given voltage. Since the charger you're using can only supply 5 volts, the decoy will only supply 5 volts no matter what its set to grab
I would also shorten the exposed wire on the usb c decoy
 
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Do you have 5v wired up? I don't have a 6 layer fan handy to check, but I checked a spare fan I have left over from a trimmed 4 layer board and it is a 5v fan, so your fan likely requires 5v connected to run (or possibly connecting 3.3v to the 5v rail, I don't know if it would cause other issues, but many 5v fans can run off of 3.3v (albeit at a lower speed) if they have 3.3v connected to them
 

CrazyGadget

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I only see one ground line going to the Wii, I would highly recommend adding a second one, especially for a 6-layer.
 
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You definitely need 5v connected then, USB requires 5v as well. Pin 4 of the multi out should be connected to 5v (check the main 4 layer trim guide for pin numbers), but you will also want to use your multimeter to ensure that pin 4 of each of the USB ports and one of the pins of the fan connector (probably the one with the red wire, red and black wires are almost always color coded with red being voltage source and black being ground/negative, although it isn't unheard of for someone to screw up and get them backwards) have continuity with it and are all getting voltage, they might not all be connected after your trim because the standard trim doesn't leave anything that requires 5v and just has you connect 5v directly to any of the parts that need it. It also wouldn't hurt to reflow your solder joints with some additional flux, I'm only getting a good view of the joints on your USB C board and one end of the wire connected to the USB ports, but the ones I can see look pretty sketchy. If you use adequate flux the solder joint should be quite smooth and rounded, if has an uneven surface with lots of spiky bits it isn't as strong and may make a poor electrical connection if any. Also it looks like you have stray strands sticking out from at least one of your solder joints, you really don't want those, they can very easily cause shorts. I would recommend desoldering all wires that have any stray strands (I can see them on your red wire on the USB C board, your other joints could easily have them) and cutting the end off all the way back to the insulation, stripping it again, then twisting the strands together between your fingers, adding flux to the exposed wire (I keep a tub of paste flux around just for this and dipping my solder wick in, I otherwise prefer a needle tip dropper bottle of liquid flux) and then tinning the wire with some solder before attempting to reconnect it. You are much less likely to get stray strands of wire sticking out if you twist and pre-tin your wires this way.
 

Stitches

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where will I connect the 5v on my board???
The big electrolytic capacitor closest to the USB ports is on the 5v line. The fuses above it are a decent spot to run the wire on the top side
 
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it's good I wired the 5v and the fan is running now it remains to find out why I have a signal but no image.
 

CrazyGadget

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Let's back up and go to basics. Did you check the resistances between your voltage lines after you trimmed? They can indicate any shorts that would cause the trim to not work at all. Fill out the table in the Wii Trim Resistances guide and post it here. Don't be alarmed if your values look different, even very different; 6-layer resistances will be lower than those of 4-layers.

Another point: your U10 via joint looks pretty bad
2022-06-25 12_04_03-Window.png

Throw some flux on there, and turn it into a nice looking hershey kiss!
 
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where can I find the cpl file (component placement list) for the rvl psu
 
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