Question My First Portable - Lots of Questions

Discussion in 'Wii' started by Paulo, Nov 6, 2018.

  1. Paulo .

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    Hello!
    I'm new to the forum and to the portablizing scene and I'm hoping to build my first portable wii.
    First of all I dont know much about electronics, I've done some soldering before (changed the capacitors on a gamegear) and some other basic stuff but nothing as big as this project.
    I've seen the videos on the forum about electronics and read a lot of posts and my understanding on the matter is better but far from perfect.
    I have some questions (some are probably really noob questions) that I would like to understand before starting and hopefuly you can have the patience to teach me.
    I already bought a wii wich has a 6 layer board.
    I will provide pictures with the numbers of the questions in them to help you understand what I'm talking about


    Questions:

    1 - 1.8v - If I understand correctly I need to connect both the purple 1.8v to each other, is any of the points inside the purple (picture below) ok to solder or do I need to solder to a specific point? Also, how do they work? Do I need a custom regulator to power them or are they powered by something else?

    2 - The U10 Relocation - Is it performed the same way as a 4 layer board? Also just to make sure, I need to connect the u10 to any of the u10 vias in the picture below and not both, correct (picture below)?

    3 - Custom Regulators Wiring - Again the same question as in the 1st one, is any of the points inside the colored spots ok to solder or does it need to be a specific one (picture below)?

    4 - PTH08080 - I've seen multiple models of this converter, does it need to be a specific one or is any ok?

    5 - Resistors for Custom Regulators - Do they need to be exactly the required resistance or is it ok if it is a bit up or down the value? Also, when buying them, what should I be aware of? Their resistance is obvious but I'm not sure about their other properties like their composition, power and tolerance.

    6 - Bluetooth - Do I need to connect all the gnd pins to ground or is just one of them enough? Does the power come from the voltage regulator or is it from the board?

    7 - Video - If I understand correctly a wire in the yellow (composite) should be enough to output video, correct? Again, does it need to be soldered to a specific point (picture below)?

    8 - Audio - I pretend to use a amplifier board for sound, where should I solder the left and right audio wires? Is any of the red and white spots ok (picture below)? Also I would like to have a 3.5mm headphone input, Do i need to look for a amp board with the input or is that connection done somewere else?

    9 - GC Controller - I'm thinking of using a gc+ board for this job, Can I connect both the 3.3v and 5v for rumble directly from the custom regulator? In the wii board I can only see vias for one port, is it possible to connect more than just one (picture below)? Also I read in the 6 layer guide that I need to wire a resistor in order to use safe mode, is it really necessary?

    10 - MX Relocation - Do I need to connect all the 3.3v pins or just one? And the same question for gnd. Also do I need to remove the u10 and u9? I know I have to remove at least one of them for the u5 swap but can I leave the other one? Also, do I need to relocate the components that limit the current coming from the battery (the one in the picture below)?

    11 - Case - I dont have a 3d printer so I was thinking of doing the project in a wii u gamepad shell. I know it is possible but is it too much for a first portable?

    12 - Screen - Any recomendation for screens? If I go for the wii u gamepad shell it should be a 6.2 inch screen.

    13 - Speakers - If I do the project in the gamepad, I was thinking in a wii u gamepad speakers but I couldnt find any specifications on them so I'm not sure if they will work properly with a amplifier board. What are your thoughts on this?

    14 - Rumble - Should I go for a specific motor for the rumble or for example a 360 controller rumble works?

    15 - Anything else that you think I should be aware of?

    16 - When is the store coming back? I'm curious to see what products are avaliable.


    I really apreciate any help that you can give and I apologise for so many and probably noob questions.
    I just want to make sure I got the trimming guide right and that I have a better understanding before I dive in.
    In the end of my project and if everything works I will try to make a detailed tutorial on all the steps I made and all the materials used with links to help out new portabilizers like me and give a better understanding on basic questions like mine.

    Thank you :)


    PICTURES:
    Questions 1, 3 & 7:
    [​IMG]

    Questions 2, 7, 8 & 9:
    [​IMG]

    Question 10:
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . .

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    1. The black chip on the left is a 1.8v linear regulator, so you can just connect those points together and you're good.
    2. yes, u10 is the same, and yes, any should be good.
    3. For all other voltages you can simply provide power to any labeled point and you're good, the 1.8v is the only one not connected together inside the board, which is why it needs the jumper wire.
    4. PTH08080WAH or PTH08080WAD would be the specific ones you should get, the other kind are meant for surface mount
    5. It doesn't have to be exact, but very close. If you are off, it's better to be a little below what you need.
    6. just one is enough, power goes into the bluetooth module from your 3.3v custom regulator
    7. composite is enough for composite video, if you want higher quality you will need to use those lines instead.
    8. If you don't power the preamp (which you probably won't) then you should connect to the bottom pins on U7
    9. You can connect directly to the regs yeah, you don't need the resistor, and there are 4 vias labeled 1-4 for players 1-4.
    10. Just one is fine, they are connected together on the bit of board you cut out. You should go ahead and remove U9 as well as U10. You should use the current limiter so the battery doesn't die extremely quickly.
    11. Without a spacer a gamepad is fairly difficult, especially for your first. I know there are a few people on here that would be glad to 3D print you a case if you design one (or you could try using gman's g-wii)
    12. Check the BOM.
    13. The Wii U gamepad speakers are a little tinny but they will work just fine with amps. IIRC, they are either 4 or 8 ohm.
    14. Any rumble motor should work as long as it is a 2 wire configuration. They usually look like this.
    15. Make sure to have the guides open as you work, and double check your wires before you turn it on. It's very easy to wire to the wrong pin and let out the smoke :P
    16. Store should be back soon, Noah and the staff have been working on getting stuff ready to get it open.
     
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  3. Paulo .

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    Thank you! I'm still waiting for some parts and I have to order the regulators, once everything arrives I will start the project :)
     
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  4. Paulo .

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  5. jefflongo Broke BitBuilt Staff Member . .

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    It won't work if you power it from 3.3v directly but almost all displays can be modified to run on 5 or 3.3v.
     
  6. Paulo .

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    If I've got it right this is what I have to do:
    - locate the 5v voltage regulator on the driver
    - remove it
    - provide 5v from the custom reg to the output pin of the removed voltage regulator
    Correct?
     
  7. jefflongo Broke BitBuilt Staff Member . .

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    Yes that's right
     
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  8. Paulo .

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    Just to make sure, is the MX chip trim in the 6 layer the same as the 4 layer?
    Do I cut in the same design?
     
  9. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . .

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    Yep, they're the same
     
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  10. Paulo .

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    Also, if I got it right, to prevent the chip from drawing too much power I have to Wire it to the B+ pad instead of the pin 13? Or is it directly to the pin 13?
    I didn't get that part very well and I dont want the battery to die quickly.
    Sorry for so many questions

    EDIT: Im talking about the pin 13 because the color looks the same as the B+ pad on the component that prevents overdrawing of power. I may be wrong assuming it
     

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