Question my batteries are not charging properly

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hello (if something is not understood it is because I am using the google translator)
A few days ago I finished assembling my portable Wii (ashida) and when I put the batteries to charge, they did not charge correctly. if they were on the wii without charging, the batteries held their charge for days (the number they held was 2.971 volts). but if I put them to charge sometimes they discharged or charged very slowly (the lowest number until today is 2,850 volts). With the help of a multimeter I discovered that the batteries did not exceed 3 volts, this should not be so since when the measurements arrived and they had a higher number, around 9 volts. when the batteries exceeded 3 volts (this only happened on two occasions) the screen turned on for a few seconds and then turned off. Other times when I put them to charge, the batteries were discharged... I don't understand how this is possible. I'm 16 years old, I did this mostly by myself and I don't understand much about this niche so if you could provide me with a little detailed instructions on what to do I would really appreciate it. I will provide photos of how I soldered the PMS-PD 2 and the RVL-PMS-LITE.
346098284_1227359468141403_2853025585209039587_n.jpg346105826_612113047532580_1183345087128094514_n.jpg346102645_645436877404653_7679147965707119941_n.jpg346101625_1203219333697350_8057010281730612746_n.jpg346103548_143407448724727_6652915824076206446_n.jpg346104747_278503377930155_5965231899648163257_n.jpg
 

Stitches

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When you say the cells read around 9 volts, do you mean each of the cells were reading around 9 volts? Or did you put 2 cells in series and get 8.4v?
 

Stitches

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I measured one and then the other
Either your multimeter is scuffed, or something went very wrong when the cells were charged by the manufacturer. If a lithium-ion cell read 9v, it should have been ready to explode. Also if it was actually outputting 9v it will have instakilled your PMS.

What cells are these that you bought? Can you provide a photo and/or a link to where you got them?
 
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Either your multimeter is scuffed, or something went very wrong when the cells were charged by the manufacturer. If a lithium-ion cell read 9v, it should have been ready to explode. Also if it was actually outputting 9v it will have instakilled your PMS.

What cells are these that you bought? Can you provide a photo and/or a link to where you got them?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtrI7xQ
okay. after looking for the batteries to be able to share them I realized something. the batteries did not measure 9 volts, but have a maximum continuous discharge rating of 9.8 amps. My brain got confused and created a false memory, sorry. It occurred to me to unsolder almost everything to analyze part by part that was failing and while I was doing that, I realized that the battery cable was making a false contact and it came out without the need for heat. When she came out, she was almost out of tin, this surprises me a lot since what she manipulated and moved the most was that badly welded cable. after improving and fixing the soldering, the batteries charged better. I will be measuring the voltage of the batteries to be completely sure that they are charging well. Maybe I'll come back if I find out that that false contact wasn't the only thing draining the batteries. I'll keep leaving this as a question for now until I'm sure the Wii will work. I hope that tomorrow I can leave this as solved.
 
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Well. after fixing the soldering I'm a bit worried. At first I thought the problem was fixed, but I'm not sure about that. Apparently nothing has changed. When I measured three volts, I thought that letting them charge for 12 hours would be enough for them to reach 100%, but they only increased to 3.28 volts. Is this because my batteries are fake or could it be a mistake on the part of the pms lite for supplying it with too much heat?
 
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I forgot to add that when I say that in 12 hours it only reached 3.28 volts it only increased 0.28 since when I measured to see how much it increased in that time I measured 3 volts.
 

Stitches

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Considering they're from Aliexpress, I'm inclined to say it's almost certainly the cells being DOA. I'd source some new ones from a reputable business and see if they behave the same way
 
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I tried to buy batteries from the ashida list but they don't ship to canada. What reliable store sends to Canada?
 

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I'm not sure, but any local vendor that sells Panasonic/Samsung 21700 cells will do
 
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I have bad news. Today I went to my school where I used an electric generator to have that energy. I put everything together like the image below and my console did not turn on. When I tried to see the amps, the number I saw was 0. I don't know if the multimeter's ammeter doesn't work (I highly doubt it) or that something is wrong with my pms lite. I adjusted the power supply from 3.7 volts to 4.0 volts just to be safe and the machine could only deliver 2 amps tops but it didn't work. According to my teacher, he told me that the problem is not the amps, since if that were the case, a red light would come on, which did not happen. what do I do now?
1686082147975.png
 

Retro95

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It's really hard to see what's connected where in the photo.

Could you upload a closer shot of all the wiring?

Did you apply the 4 volts to B+ and B- on the PMS-LITE?
 
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I'm sorry friend but I don't have another photo of better quality. I hope that with the following image you will better understand where the connected cables are. Regarding the second question, yes. did i make any mistake?
1686092172031.png
 
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Retro95

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Is there a reason you aren't using batteries to power the device?

Since you haven't been able to boot into RVLoader and change the button settings. It should be set to "temporary" which means you need to flick the bottom switch to on, then back to off, to get the device to power on.

Same thing for getting it to turn off.
 
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Is there a reason you aren't using batteries to power the device?

Since you haven't been able to boot into RVLoader and change the button settings. It should be set to "temporary" which means you need to flick the bottom switch to on, then back to off, to get the device to power on.

Same thing for getting it to turn off.
I am not using batteries to check if they are the problem regarding the operation of my console.

Today I did another test with the same results. The ammeter detected only 0.004 amps flowing. In addition, when I decided to see how many volts each voltage gave, all the voltages tested at 0 with the exception of 3.3 volts, which gave 0.28 volts. How can I know if my pms lite is damaged?
 

Stitches

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Disconnect the PMS-Lite from the Wii and check the output voltages while it's on its own. If they're still not correct, the PMS might be damaged.

When you are able to, please provide some clear high resolution photos of your PMS and Wii wiring so we can properly see the current state of it
 
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Hi, I have a question for you. an engineer will check the components of my ashida to see what the problem is. Would this person have essential information that can only be found in this forum or do I let him do his job?
 

Stitches

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If you're going to have someone take a look at it for you, make sure you provide them with access to the Wii Trimming Guide and the 4layertech page for the PMS so they can reference the wiring diagrams
 
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hello. I checked the PMS-PD 2 and noticed that 3.3 volts gave 0 volts when I put it to pass. I'll assume that's not normal. I am thinking of buying another one and as soon as it arrives, I am going to put it to the test and if it gives 3.3 volts, solder it to the RVL-PMS to put it to the test and the same with all the power outlets and hope that everything works
 
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