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Question Maple Pad & Github (Pi Pico)

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Not sure where to put this, hopefully this is the right spot!

So I'm working on a new DC portable, and I have a stack of Pi Picos to play with. Problem is, I have no idea how to put anything onto them.

I've watched a few vids on the subject, but nothing I've found so far is of any help.

So my question is: How does one get the Maple pad (link: https://github.com/mackieks/MaplePad) off of the Github and then put it onto the Pico for use?
 

YveltalGriffin

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Hey man! Glad you're getting on the MaplePad train. It's super simple to program the Pico.

  1. Go to the Releases section on the righthand side of the repo.
  2. Download the maplepad_v1.5.uf2 file corresponding to the controller type you want: standard for HKT-7700, or arcade stick for HKT-7300.
  3. Hold down the BOOTSEL button on the Pico while plugging it into your PC with a USB cable. It will pop up as a USB drive called RPI-RP2.
  4. Drag the uf2 file you downloaded earlier onto the RPI-RP2 USB drive.
  5. All done! Now you can follow the diagrams in the hardware folder to wire up the Pico.
 
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Here's a problem...got this thing all setup, got it wired up and then plugged it into my main Dreamcast to test it out.

Upon power up, it promptly fried my system.

First the controller didn't turn on at all, then the system stopped turning on all together. I've checked and rechecked the lines, and everything is wired exactly as it should be, yet it cooked my console.

To say i'm unhappy right now is a bit of an understatement :angry::angry::angry:

any idea what could cause this, other than my curse? (which is most likely...)
 

YveltalGriffin

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Sorry to hear that! @Teatimetim had a similar issue and it ended up being a wiring mistake. Gotta be the case here. Some things to check:
  • Triple check the pinout of your controller cable with a continuity meter. Each one has different wire colors, so you can't trust online pics or guides.
  • Confirm you didn't mirror the controller pinout. The diagram in the repo shows a female controller socket, not the male controller plug.

    1728412901794.png


  • Measure the 5V and GND wires from your controller cable pigtail before soldering it to the Pico.
  • Make sure you never plug the USB cable into the Pico while it's connected to the Dreamcast.
 
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Oh, bugger me...I wired the socket up backwards >< That's what I get for using the tiny screen on my phone for a diagram....and it cost my my main system :(
 
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It's odd that it fried your system though, it shouldn't have... Are you sure the fuse on the controller board didn't just blow? When I originally wired it I did the same thing because I wasn't thinking of the right connector orientation when checking the wires.
 
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New Question, same thread!

Got the pad working! With an issue...

The new problem is rather peculiar. Analog UP doesn't appear to work. Left and Right is fine, down works as well. But up does nothing. Even when i just poke it 100% high with the 3.3v wire, nothing. I set up another pi board in case it was the pi itself, but there is no difference.

Any thoughts?

Also, the screen doesn't work. I have it wired up according to the diagram (it's the color screen), and it doesn't even flicker. I'm guessing I smoked it, but I just wanna double check in case I'm missing something before I order more lol.
 

YveltalGriffin

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You need to run the stick and trigger calibration in the menu. This does require the screen to be working so you can see the menu. The Release Notes contain lots of helpful information; I'll copy paste some of the relevant points here.
  • Color and monochrome OLEDs are selectable with GPIO22. Leave GPIO22 floating to enable SPI for SSD1331 color OLED, or connect it to GND to enable SSD1306 monochrome I2C OLED.
  • To access the MaplePad menu, hold Y + Start on powerup.
  • In the menu, you can calibrate the analog stick and triggers, edit deadzones, enable or disable subperipherals, change settings, and view the current controller type and firmware version. Select Exit to save your settings and start the controller.
If you can share some pics of the OLED you're using (front and back) and the wiring, that would be helpful for debugging further.
 
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Das screeeeeen!

Interesting...Upon close inspection just now, it appears to be wrong screen?

Odd...the listing I purchased it from said SSD1331, so never bothered to look a the board till now XD

That could very well be the problem...
front and rear.jpg
 

YveltalGriffin

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YveltalGriffin

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SPI is only used for color SSD1331 OLEDs. If you want to use a monochrome OLED, it has to be an I2C SSD1306 one. There are SPI SSD1306 monochrome OLEDs, but the code doesn't support those, hence my warning to avoid them.
 
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The questions continue!

Now that I have a screen that actually works (boy is it tiny!), I'm still struggling with getting the analog stick to work properly.

I can't get it to calibrate worth a darn, it's always triggering down (left and right work fine)...and it still appears that up doesn't work at all.

Is this a common issue?

I'm currently using this https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/adafruit-industries-llc/2765/6193582 joystick; something that I've used on other creations without any problems.

Is there a recommended stick for the job, or am I just made of fail?
 

YveltalGriffin

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The calibration is really robust and works with just about any stick, assuming it's not mechanically faulty or wired incorrectly.
  • Confirm the stick is powered from 3.3v, and its GND is connected directly to the Pico.
  • Measure the X and Y axes to confirm they are idling at ~1.65V and the voltage increases/decreases as you move the stick
  • Are you following the stick calibration routine instructions?
  • Have you tried adjusting the deadzone and antideadzone in the menu? (The release notes explain what each of those are)
If none of that narrows it down, please record a clear video of how you're performing the calibration, and then show the output of the controller test in 240p Test Suite as you move the stick.

Last ditch option is using picotool to dump the Pico's flash so I can inspect the stick calibration values.
 
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Ok, so the gremlins apparently were to blame....as i turned it on again to fiddle with it some more today, and it suddenly works just fine now :/ I did tweak the deadzone a little to be safe, but yeah it works fine now. Odd....
 
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