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- Jan 31, 2016
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Thats what I assumed, but I thought Id clarify it so noobs reading this log don't feel like they have to.
Worklog Madmorda's First Wii Portable (Wii S Lite)
- Thread starter Madmorda
- Start date
Another big push today. 
it's really coming along. I spent the majority of my day just cleaning up the board and making sure everything fits.
For starters, I slightly changed the usb port and dremeled the spot for it. It's super glued in for now because I'm out of epoxy.
I redid the MX chip so it's nicer looking and has the battery mounted on it. The battery is from a ps2 and I'm using it because it can be easily unplugged and replaced when it eventually dies.
I resized the LR buttons so they fit better. My ps2 dpad buttons were wigging a bit and I finally figured out that I need to glue the tacts together to stop that. They feel nice and tight now.
I mounted my regs too in the smallest formation I could figure out. They were a bit of a tight squeeze on this side of the case, and there's an awkward amount of empty space on the other side of the board, but the places the regs connect to were on this side, so oh well.
Here's an overview of how it will look inside the bottom half when it's done. (Minus heatsink and fan). I took apart my battery for measurements and they will be an even tighter squeeze than I thought because I put too thick of epoxy on the bottom. I sanded the board down a bit in an attempt to reduce that effect, but it's still a really close call. I considered that in my new design for the faceplate.
Which looks like this. I replaced Wii S Lite with the metroid logo since I'm now sure that I will be customizing it. I also did some tests of screw posts and included those in my print, but probably won't use them. They're mostly there so I can figure out where I can fit screw posts. I would definitely trust frankencased posts more than printed ones, although these seem pretty okay.
I've also noticed that the bottom of the shell is a bit uneven. When I put it on a flat surface, it's able to rock a bit. I was thinking I could use ps2 rubber feet. They could be directly under the screw posts inside because they can hide screws under the rubber pad that would screw the faceplate on. So it serves a dual purpose.
it's really coming along. I spent the majority of my day just cleaning up the board and making sure everything fits.For starters, I slightly changed the usb port and dremeled the spot for it. It's super glued in for now because I'm out of epoxy.
I redid the MX chip so it's nicer looking and has the battery mounted on it. The battery is from a ps2 and I'm using it because it can be easily unplugged and replaced when it eventually dies.
I resized the LR buttons so they fit better. My ps2 dpad buttons were wigging a bit and I finally figured out that I need to glue the tacts together to stop that. They feel nice and tight now.
I mounted my regs too in the smallest formation I could figure out. They were a bit of a tight squeeze on this side of the case, and there's an awkward amount of empty space on the other side of the board, but the places the regs connect to were on this side, so oh well.
Here's an overview of how it will look inside the bottom half when it's done. (Minus heatsink and fan). I took apart my battery for measurements and they will be an even tighter squeeze than I thought because I put too thick of epoxy on the bottom. I sanded the board down a bit in an attempt to reduce that effect, but it's still a really close call. I considered that in my new design for the faceplate.
Which looks like this. I replaced Wii S Lite with the metroid logo since I'm now sure that I will be customizing it. I also did some tests of screw posts and included those in my print, but probably won't use them. They're mostly there so I can figure out where I can fit screw posts. I would definitely trust frankencased posts more than printed ones, although these seem pretty okay.
I've also noticed that the bottom of the shell is a bit uneven. When I put it on a flat surface, it's able to rock a bit. I was thinking I could use ps2 rubber feet. They could be directly under the screw posts inside because they can hide screws under the rubber pad that would screw the faceplate on. So it serves a dual purpose.
Eyy, when completed I want to write the article... therefore I call DIBS
(if Madmorda is ok with it)
(if Madmorda is ok with it)
Madmorda is very okay with it
Red vs. Blue is hilarious!!!
My faceplate came out great. The samus logo looks nice and I have the screw posts all figured out. This picture is actually of the whole wii plus batteries and controller fitting under it. I was worried about the batteries having enough space but it seems okay. So that's a load off my mind. One of the most stressful parts for me is when you have to combine "should work" with "will work" and I was dealing with fractions of millimeters.
I measured the places I wanted the screw posts to be and drilled holes. I will be using posts from a ps2 and the feet to go with it. I fixed the unbalanced thing and epoxied the feet in. I will be using slightly thinner screws than the ps2 ones so that they go easier and there's less chance of a post breaking off. I also epoxied in the usb port.
I'm still waiting on my lcd driver board to start work on the top half. It looks like it might not take component after all, but I can always use composite on the 5" screen since it fits my top half better than a 4.3". In hindsight I should've gone in for a gcvideo and a vga screen, but I don't want to drop an additional $50 for a gcvideo plus $20 or so for a vga screen. I can always change it later on but for now the plan is composite depending on if the driver board works and looks ok with my screen.
Maybe you'll be lucky and your board works as advertised.
Maybe
If not though I'm going to contact WayEngineer. I emailed them a couple days ago asking but don't really expect a reply. Once I get mine I'll test it and then try contacting them some other way. I think there was a live help thing on their website.I tried doing more research and it looks like everyone who has bought from them is happy so I imagine they would at least try and help their customers with problems.
Screen update:
It has been a month and I have not received my driver board from WayEngineer. I have tried contacting them in two different ways but there is no response. There doesn't seem to be a way to get in contact with them. In addition, @Stitches did receive his board, but it doesn't accept component. I will order a 5" composite screen from eBay and use that instead, and if my board doesn't arrive in another couple weeks, then I will go through Paypal to get a refund. I would recommend that nobody buy from WayEngineer based on my experience so far. It was worth a shot, but unfortunately didn't work out. It was worth it just to find out whether it worked or not though If/When it gets here, I will tinker with it a bit and see if I can get it working, but for now I'm aiming for composite.
It has been a month and I have not received my driver board from WayEngineer. I have tried contacting them in two different ways but there is no response. There doesn't seem to be a way to get in contact with them. In addition, @Stitches did receive his board, but it doesn't accept component. I will order a 5" composite screen from eBay and use that instead, and if my board doesn't arrive in another couple weeks, then I will go through Paypal to get a refund. I would recommend that nobody buy from WayEngineer based on my experience so far. It was worth a shot, but unfortunately didn't work out. It was worth it just to find out whether it worked or not though
If/When it gets here, I will tinker with it a bit and see if I can get it working, but for now I'm aiming for composite.
I'm having a play with the board to see if I can make it stop herniating over 60i, I'll let you know if I make any progress. Also, most of the ebay 5 inch reverse screens are 480x276, so make sure you get the right resolution if you go that route.Screen update:
It has been a month and I have not received my driver board from WayEngineer. I have tried contacting them in two different ways but there is no response. There doesn't seem to be a way to get in contact with them. In addition, @Stitches did receive his board, but it doesn't accept component. I will order a 5" composite screen from eBay and use that instead, and if my board doesn't arrive in another couple weeks, then I will go through Paypal to get a refund. I would recommend that nobody buy from WayEngineer based on my experience so far. It was worth a shot, but unfortunately didn't work out. It was worth it just to find out whether it worked or not though
So I received my LCD driver board from Wayengineer, and unfortunately mine doesn't work at all, so that's definitely a dead end. @Shank was kind enough to help me troubleshoot it, but for some reason video just won't show up. So I ordered a composite 5" screen and that's on the way.
This is super random, but for anybody using 3ds sliders, it's worth getting official caps for them if you can. I've ordered two different sets of generic ones. One of them feels like more like plastic than rubber, but do a passable job. The others feel powdery and it's impossible to get any grip. The official ones are really grippy and nice feeling in comparison.
Here is the bottom side of the screw hole feet. I did some sanding, but will do the bondo etc after I put in my fan vent.
I finished up my dual tact switch setup and it feels really nice with the buttons. The buttons actually are able to move around a bit too much in their holes but I don't mind that since painting buttons AND the case usually makes buttons that fit well not fit anymore. (Or stick).
While it wasn't on my original list of things I want, I'm kind of sad I can't get component on a screen under 7". So I've been thinking that a nice compromise would be to have the wii have composite on the 5" but also be able to output component to an external TV. I hadn't really considered outputting video before, but thinking about it now it makes perfect sense because it has a built in sensor bar and can do charge and play. Basically it would be a regular wii, only smaller. It seems like when component is enabled on the wii, composite also works, so I could have both the portable and the TV display picture (although I'll probably add a switch to turn off the LCD and amp to save power).
For component video and stereo audio output, I'll need a 6-pin plug (y, pb, pr, L, R, comm). If anybody has a recommendation for a really small generic plug that has 6 pins, that would be amazing
I was playing with the charge and play feature a bit and when I'm playing, then plug in the charger, the wii freezes. It doesn't fully reset, but glitches instead. I tested with my phone and what is happening is when I plug in the charger, the battery cuts off power for a small fraction of a second. It's not enough to fully power off the wii though which is why it freezes instead of resetting. I ordered a 1000uF capacitor in the hopes that this will tide over the wii for that moment.
I was also examining my ds lite today and looking at how they didn't need to indent the buttons at all. They indented the top screen instead, but it's very subtle (like 1.5-2mm). I was originally thinking I wouldn't be able to do that, but since I now have a test driver board and a screen, I can take more accurate measurements. The way my buttons are indented in the lower faceplate looks really awkward, but looking at what I have now, I may be able to raise them back up to a flat plane. I think this would look much better, so fingers crossed!
This is super random, but for anybody using 3ds sliders, it's worth getting official caps for them if you can. I've ordered two different sets of generic ones. One of them feels like more like plastic than rubber, but do a passable job. The others feel powdery and it's impossible to get any grip. The official ones are really grippy and nice feeling in comparison.
Here is the bottom side of the screw hole feet. I did some sanding, but will do the bondo etc after I put in my fan vent.
I finished up my dual tact switch setup and it feels really nice with the buttons. The buttons actually are able to move around a bit too much in their holes but I don't mind that since painting buttons AND the case usually makes buttons that fit well not fit anymore. (Or stick).
While it wasn't on my original list of things I want, I'm kind of sad I can't get component on a screen under 7". So I've been thinking that a nice compromise would be to have the wii have composite on the 5" but also be able to output component to an external TV. I hadn't really considered outputting video before, but thinking about it now it makes perfect sense because it has a built in sensor bar and can do charge and play. Basically it would be a regular wii, only smaller. It seems like when component is enabled on the wii, composite also works, so I could have both the portable and the TV display picture (although I'll probably add a switch to turn off the LCD and amp to save power).
For component video and stereo audio output, I'll need a 6-pin plug (y, pb, pr, L, R, comm). If anybody has a recommendation for a really small generic plug that has 6 pins, that would be amazing
I was playing with the charge and play feature a bit and when I'm playing, then plug in the charger, the wii freezes. It doesn't fully reset, but glitches instead. I tested with my phone and what is happening is when I plug in the charger, the battery cuts off power for a small fraction of a second. It's not enough to fully power off the wii though which is why it freezes instead of resetting. I ordered a 1000uF capacitor in the hopes that this will tide over the wii for that moment.
I was also examining my ds lite today and looking at how they didn't need to indent the buttons at all. They indented the top screen instead, but it's very subtle (like 1.5-2mm). I was originally thinking I wouldn't be able to do that, but since I now have a test driver board and a screen, I can take more accurate measurements. The way my buttons are indented in the lower faceplate looks really awkward, but looking at what I have now, I may be able to raise them back up to a flat plane. I think this would look much better, so fingers crossed!
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You may be able to have 2 TRRS headphone jacks output. One could do left audio, right audio, and composite. The other could have y pb and pr and also use the switch pin to trigger cable detect on the Wii. This would make the composite screen not function while a component cable was plugged in, but be a compact way to have either video out mode.
I really like this 2-plug idea, but I'm not sure I understand this part. By cable detect do you mean enable component or an entirely different thing?
Connecting the video sense line to 3.3v to enable component does disable composite, unfortunately. But that may be a good thing for you because the screen should go into the sleep mode when component is enabled and there's no composite signal.
@Aurelio said composite stays active, so now idk XD. Either way is fine with me, although if you're right then that explains what Shank meant
pipbug
.
Looks fantastic so far!
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How do you go about holding your buttons into place?
Which buttons? The abxy buttons have the n3ds dpad screwed in underneath them and I 3d printed a holder / support for the LR buttons.