Worklog Josh's first Wii portable

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This is a copy of my reply in the noob questions thread and it serves as a nice intro:

Hey there BitBuilt community, I am a noob! I have never built a portable, however I've seen them around a lot. I have read a ton of articles, worklogs, guides, ebay product pages, forums, and instructables pages, and I would really like to construct my own. I have a fair amount of knowledge with electronics hardware, and a lot of knowledge of working with software, and I think I'm about ready to construct my own.
I think it's a fun idea to document my progress as I go along, and it's a good place to get handy feedback from a lovely community of experienced creators. I look forward to playing F-Zero GX on my train commute to class!
Before I jump into it I thought I would run my general plan by the experts of the craft and get some feedback. So here's what I know;

building a Wii is the best route to go, as I'd like to play Gamecube games as well as Wii games.
building a portable involves these steps,
Install Portablizemii
disassembling the Wii down to the motherboard,
trimming the motherboard so the system only contains the crucial pieces needed to boot and run games, as described in this lovely article: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/the-definitive-wii-trimming-guide.198/#post-1492 ,
relocating the pieces of the broken motherboard and reconnecting the pieces via wires so it can actually function once again, yet is far more compact,
giving it an internal, rechargable, and protected power supply,
connecting the video outputs to a small screen,
connecting the audio outputs to headphones,
putting tact buttons into the case of the portable, and connecting them to the system,
allowing the Wii to draw it's data from a USB or SD card, which contains the games and allocated storage space for game saves,
and ensuring that the system stays cool with a fan and installing an exhaust,
digitally model a case that fits the build, print, and assemble.

I also intend on purchasing some old, used Gamecube controllers from a pawn shop, and integrating the original controller arms and button into a 3D printed case (I actually have 3D design skill, and access to a 3D printer)

My reference material and resources are as follows:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Portable-Game-System/
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:wii_multi_av_pinout
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/the-definitive-wii-trimming-guide.198/#post-1492
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/resistors-for-custom-regulators.1078/
https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/custom-regulators-an-explanation-and-guide.754/

I'm using these parts (not a conclusive list, this is just what I have at the moment):

Wii
Gamecube original controller (not the GC+ because of nostalgia and the GC+ costs a lot if you're a Canadian)
7" Primeview PW070XS1 screen (taken from a DVD player that cost me $10)
RCA to female 3.5mm (no speakers on my portable, I don't need any if I'm playing this on the bus or train which I always will be)
Maybe speakers (maybe I might play at home sometimes...maybe)
custom regs (PTH08080 and appropriate resistors and capacitors)
Portablizemii (already flashed on Wii)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-4S1P-1...044923?hash=item283226077b:g:yKMAAOSw3ZRY~KCx (I want interchangable batteries so I can throw new batteries in on the fly as opposed to charging the whole portable every night)
and 4 Sony brand 18650 (unprotected, but from a trusted source not too worry they won't explode)


Items I need to figure out:

Some kind of audio amplifier and volume control
Some kind of cooling system
Case design (this comes last for me; I want to design a case at the end because I don't want to have to worry about positioning or shape of circuitry just yet, I simply want to focus on making it as small as possible and I can digitally model and print a case later, although I have a pretty good Idea of what I want it to look like and how to make it look good)

I would upload some pictures to show my progress, but there isn't much too see aside from some resistors, a screen and it's driver board, a whole Wii with Portablizemii, and a desk cluttered with tools, solder, and notes upon notes upon notes. I'll be sure to update this thread with progress, thoughts, and ideas.
 
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I purchased all the necessary resistors and 100uf capacitors for 1V, 1.15V, 3.3V, and 5V custom regulators from a local electronic parts store. It didn't cost that much at all. the problem I'm having is with the PTH08080 chips ( http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=232960357&uq=636355803621346344 ), they cost $8 each. For $4 that comes to around $30, with currency conversion that comes to $38, and with shipping that comes to $58 total not including tax. I need to find a different way to make custom regulators that is actually somewhat affordable.
 
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Looking forward to seeing how this goes. I like that you list all your resources as well, it helps show what you’ve looked at and helps other noobs find some place to look for additional info!
 

Matthew

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I purchased all the necessary resistors and 100uf capacitors for 1V, 1.15V, 3.3V, and 5V custom regulators from a local electronic parts store. It didn't cost that much at all. the problem I'm having is with the PTH08080 chips ( http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=232960357&uq=636355803621346344 ), they cost $8 each. For $4 that comes to around $30, with currency conversion that comes to $38, and with shipping that comes to $58 total not including tax. I need to find a different way to make custom regulators that is actually somewhat affordable.

You may have a great difficulty with custom regulators. The problem is that there aren't really any good alternatives except for PowerMii and PowerMii lite. Many new members and others find regulators online but those often overheat, don't actually follow the specs they claim or have other varied problems. That's the reason we stick with PTHs. The best alternative is to go look at PowerMii and PowerMii lite. They aren't necessarily cheaper but they will give you more benefits worthy of spending that much money.
 

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Also, disregard the "MAKING THE PORTABLE WII" videos. That guy ends up making a terrible portable that definitely overheats, he explains things wrong, and does a terrible job overall.

You're on the right track! You're clearly doing research and doing smart things like designing your case last. I hope to see more progress!
 

Shank

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Welcome to the community, @arcarijo486! Thank you for taking the time to do your research! Showing you are putting in effort like this earns instant respect, and makes us more inclined to help you. You wouldn't believe the number of people who come into our community who don't google or check the guide hub before posting. That being said, time to answer some questions.

building a Wii is the best route to go, as I'd like to play Gamecube games as well as Wii games.
Damn straight. Anyone who tells you otherwise is wrong.
allowing the Wii to draw it's data from a USB or SD card, which contains the games and allocated storage space for game saves,
SD is not needed or used for a portable. Everything is done through USB on portablizemii. Its easier and more stable to rewire, and also allows for faster, better storage options.
Gamecube original controller (not the GC+ because of nostalgia and the GC+ costs a lot if you're a Canadian)
Financially I can understand, but nostalgia makes no sense to me. Its all internally, and GC+ functions the same as a GC controller, it just is much smaller, easier to solder to, can easily use a dual tact mod, and accepts 3DS sliders. GC+ will save you the difficulty of cutting up and desoldering to GC controller boards, which is a pain.
7" Primeview PW070XS1 screen (taken from a DVD player that cost me $10)
If you can get it to work, fine, but I would advise against it. Its gonna take some reverse engineering to get it to work. Even still, the circuitry is going to be much larger, thicker, heavier, and less efficient because it probably uses cold cathode tubes. I love GreatScott's channel, but outside of his basic electronics tutorials, the methods he uses are not the best way to go about things. I would strongly recommend getting a modern screen made to accept the video signal you want to use. Check the BOM, there is even a 7" screen that accepts the much higher quality component video natively.
RCA to female 3.5mm (no speakers on my portable, I don't need any if I'm playing this on the bus or train which I always will be)
Maybe speakers (maybe I might play at home sometimes...maybe)
The Wii has a preamp, but you are going to need an actual amp to power your audio, be it speakers or headphones.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-4S1P-1...044923?hash=item283226077b:g:yKMAAOSw3ZRY~KCx (I want interchangable batteries so I can throw new batteries in on the fly as opposed to charging the whole portable every night)
and 4 Sony brand 18650 (unprotected, but from a trusted source not too worry they won't explode)
Its not wise to remove, mix and match lithium batteries. If you want to have a removable pack, ensure all 4 of the cells stay together as a pack, and you remove it all at once and replace them all together. Maybe have them packed inside the battery holder, and the battery holder plugs into the system. Batteries need to be used together continuously if they are to be used together so they have the same amount of charge and discharge cycles on each cell.
Some kind of audio amplifier and volume control
If you are fine with foregoing a headphone jack, the PAM based audio amp is a classic. You can find it in the portablizing BOM in the general section. Otherwise, you are gonna have to grab one of aurelio's WiiHUD enabled audio amps when the come out, or wait for someone to cook something up.

As for your sources,
Instructables link: So outdated it hurts. The methods used are almost all obsolete. This can help you understand the concept of portablizing, but its methods should not be followed.
GameSX: Good, accurate information, but not really relevant when you are trimming the board.
BitBuilt Trimming Guide: This is your bible. Use it for everything.
GreatScott Video: Already discussed. Interesting, but really useful or relevant for this project, given it was such a specific screen.
BB TI reg guides: Good stuff
PLA Video: Not sure. Not much experience smoothing PLA.
Manollo's Video: Do not use this as guidance. He doesn't know what he is doing, and his portable is a mess.
 
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I'm starting to reaallly appreciate the immense support I'm getting from this community! It has been super helpful and encouraging.

So my resource list is definitely modified, thanks for the feedback.

I'd actually like to use the GC+, it looks like a great piece of hardware. I'm only really nostalgic over the grips and buttons over the original controller (especially the shoulder button) The reason I'm so hesitant is because of the cost for me. That simple $12 is a great price, but for me it's around $35 after shipping, currency conversion, and tax. Like I said, while it may be easier to use the GC+, it will be worth it for me to save a few Canadian dollars and to learn to desolder and rewire a GC controller (plus I've never shied away from learning something new). ;)
Worst case scenario is I can't make it work and break down and buy a GC+.

I just ordered that PAM based audio amp, it is nice and affordable with free shipping and it's on it's way. Thanks for the recommendation!

The weird PrimeView screen is actually looking promising, with a little help I received from YveltalGriffin I'm looking forward to making it happen very soon. It does actually natively receive a component signal natively. If things don't work out, I'll be definitely be buying a L7009, but I just want to see if I can make it happen, just as a little side project while I wait for other pieces to be shipped and gathered.

I'm still toying with the custom regs ideas. The PTH boards would cost me $76 for five ( that's the final price after conversion, shipping, and taxes from Digi-Key), for that reason, I think I'll contact Noah about purchasing a PowerMii lite from him. It only costs $50 total from him, thanks for pointing me in that direction! I had vaguely heard of it but never really looked into it until now.

I will definitely be careful with the batteries, I have some decent knowledge of 18650 batteries and exactly how dangerous they can be for a device. Not to worry I will use them wisely, however thanks a bunch for that tip!



So thanks everybody so much for overwhelming feedback overnight, it is all fantastic info for me.
However aside from all that, here's a little further update with my progress:

I now have the wires I need to start relocating parts on my Wii, using the BitBuilt trimming guide as a reference.
These are 28 gauge wire for data signals, such as the Bluetooth chip, and 22 gauge for power.
I want to start working on relocation before trimming (as advised by the guide), however I still need those pesky custom regulators sorted out, I'll PM Noah soon, from what I've read on the PowerMii lite thread, he still has some available because people aren't committing to payment, I certainly intend to commit fully.
I need to find out what I can do with the board before I get custom regs, if anything. I'll read through some worklogs to see what others are doing at this stage.
In the meantime, I have Portablizemii ready on the Wii.
 
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I found an image that closely resembles what I want my case to look like. Mine won't have detachable sides, but this just shows the general shape and layout.

That is kind of an interesting idea though, giving the halves of the controller the ability to attach to the center portion of the portable or be connected together as a whole controller that connects to the screen. Not what I plan on making but it's just some food for thought.

switch-gamecube-games.jpg
 

GingerOfOz

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Juat to let you know, 28 gauge wire may be too thick for relocations like Bluetooth and USB. I believe the thickest recommended for those is around 30-38 gauge. You can still give it a shot, but you may have problems there.
 

Stitches

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And that's only because the bluetooth vias are so teeny tiny, less than a millimetre wide.
 
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Quick update on my progress:

I thought that I could easily input a composite signal into my DVD player screen and I messed up and broke the IC pin I needed to solder so now there's just a tiny metal nub inside the chip. This chip is very small and difficult to work with so I'm thinking of just moving on from it and getting a better screen that has composite natively.

I wouldn't mind getting an L7009, however due to it's price for me as a Canadian, I am deterred from the idea of it. I had my eye on screens like this from Ebay, or screens like this from Walmart . I've been warned to watch for the resolution of the screens I look at, as they may be really low.
Essencially, I'm trying to find a Canadian alternative to the screens in the Gman BOM. The L7009 that's listed there is $65, hopefully, I don't have to spend that much.

I PM'ed Noah about the PowerMii Lite with no response yet, still looking for a way to construct my own without the PTH boards due to their price. I'd still be willing to purchase that PowerMii Lite off of Noah.

Today I'll be going out to grab a Gamecube controller for $15 from a local game shop. I'm surprised they are still that much, even on Kijiji there are no controllers for sale in my area.

I want to wire composite video and RCA audio with an amp right into the Wii AV Multi Out port using this pin layout I had from before:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:wii_multi_av_pinout
If I could just use that port and layout my life would be easier.

Batteries and battery pack are still on their way.
Audio amp is still on it's way.
 

Matthew

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#1 don't double post. It's one of our rules. Make sure go read them an know them. Use the edit button.

#2. Noah is away on vacation as it states in the PowerMii lite thread. Give him some time and he will reply. We staff also have lives and do many things. Don't be impatient.

#3. Regulators are usually purchased on eBay or other online market places.

#4. You can find cheap composite screens on amazon by searching 'backup camera screen' and other variations on that.
 
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Double post deleted, sorry about that, I also re-read those rules. I didn't see that Noah was away on the thread when I first looked through it but I kind of figured he wasn't available and its completely understandable. I linked the cheap ebay screen composite screen I was eyeballing in my previous post, as well as a Walmart alternative. I've seen the regulators on eBay, yet as with anything on eBay, I was kind of skeptical so I included it in my worklog update. Thanks for the feedback, though.

Also, another quick progress update, I took apart my Wii. If anybody else is looking for a great step-by-step guide to taking apart a Wii, I used this guide to help me a lot:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Nintendo+Wii+Motherboard+Replacement/3460
I didn't actually have a tri-wing screwdriver, so I brought the whole system to a local video game shop and they happily lended my the screwdriver and let me disassemble the tri-wing screws in-shop. Then I brought the system home and used that guide to take apart the internals of the Wii.
Now I'm studying the trimming guide to take the best precautions to relocating the necessary pieces for the build. I've read that I don't necessarily need to have custom regs before relocating, so that gives me time to wait for those.

also, I'm deciding on how I want to cool my system. I've seen fans implemented, heat sinks modified, and even a water cooling system I could use (but probably not). I can't tell if literally bending the Wii's heatsink like the guys in this article did it is a stupid idea or not. I'm yet to look into cooling systems, and I'm focusing on relocation.
 
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Stitches

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Quick update on my progress:

I thought that I could easily input a composite signal into my DVD player screen and I messed up and broke the IC pin I needed to solder so now there's just a tiny metal nub inside the chip. This chip is very small and difficult to work with so I'm thinking of just moving on from it and getting a better screen that has composite natively.

I wouldn't mind getting an L7009, however due to it's price for me as a Canadian, I am deterred from the idea of it. I had my eye on screens like this from Ebay, or screens like this from Walmart . I've been warned to watch for the resolution of the screens I look at, as they may be really low.
Essencially, I'm trying to find a Canadian alternative to the screens in the Gman BOM. The L7009 that's listed there is $65, hopefully, I don't have to spend that much.

I PM'ed Noah about the PowerMii Lite with no response yet, still looking for a way to construct my own without the PTH boards due to their price. I'd still be willing to purchase that PowerMii Lite off of Noah.

Today I'll be going out to grab a Gamecube controller for $15 from a local game shop. I'm surprised they are still that much, even on Kijiji there are no controllers for sale in my area.

I want to wire composite video and RCA audio with an amp right into the Wii AV Multi Out port using this pin layout I had from before:
http://gamesx.com/wiki/doku.php?id=av:wii_multi_av_pinout
If I could just use that port and layout my life would be easier.

Batteries and battery pack are still on their way.
Audio amp is still on it's way.
The ebay screen you linked is 800x480, so it'd be okay. The Walmart one is 1440 x 234, which is gross and probably the worst aspect ratio possible..
 

ByteMe

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I'm still toying with the custom regs ideas. The PTH boards would cost me $76 for five ( that's the final price after conversion, shipping, and taxes from Digi-Key), for that reason, I think I'll contact Noah about purchasing a PowerMii lite from him. It only costs $50 total from him, thanks for pointing me in that direction! I had vaguely heard of it but never really looked into it until now.
I know I'm a little late to respond but figured I'd share my experience. As a fellow Canadian, I strongly suggest using mouser over digikey, shipping options are better, several shipping options include duties and taxes (so no surprises when it arrives at your door), and finally pricing is the same (if not contact their customer support and they will match digikey's pricing).

All that being said if you can go for PowerMii if you can, I can also vouch towards purchasing the GC+ having recently done both methods the GC+ is totally worth the added cost.
 
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Thanks Stitches!! I was so confused at that number, I honestly thought it was a weird typo. I'm going to do one last scan around my town for a screen then I'll just buy the ebay one, it seems fine.

Also thanks ByteMe, it is definitely not too late to give your experience and input. In fact, it's much appreciated to hear from a Canadian in the community. Mouser looks like a great source and I'll be sure to use it in the future, thanks for the tip! Due to the sheer price of PTH08080WAH boards, and the reliability of the PowerMii, I'm kind of leaning toward the PowerMii Lite, as it was designed and sold specifically for powering the Wii.

Update:
I'm getting annoyed by my lack of equipment and hardware resources, but for my first time doing this I suppose that is to be expected. I'm ordering a ton of 34AWG Magnet wire off of eBay, it is copper and insulated but it takes a while to get to me. I was recommended to strip CAT5 Ethernet wire and use that in the meantime, although I don't know if that seems safe or not.

Another Update:
I bought that eBay screen, it's on it's way.
I've been studying microsoldering techniques, as I am not very good at soldering very small points. I am very capable of doing general electronics repair, but this project is a much higher level of difficulty for me. I've been using a video lesson by ifixit to learn how to properly solder 0.1mm points in preparation of the Bluetooth relocation job. This is the video I've been using:
 
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As a beginner to the scene as well I feel your pain in waiting for equipment. I try to use my waiting time doing additional research and looking into others projects.

As a tip for the Bluetooth traces, especially if you’re somewhat new to soldering, start out practicing on the traces far away from the GPU. Go to the part of the traces that you will be cutting off anyways and practice soldering to them there. I started a little too close to the GPU and one of my traces went right up next to it before I finally got it! It’ll save you some stress knowing that it’s fine when you mess up. :p Also look into getting some soldering flux, it’s not needed and most tasks are pretty easily done without it (considering rosin core solder already has flux in the core) but it can make lots of these jobs a bit less complicated.
 
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So I have a bunch of project updates!

I successfully connected a Gamecube controller directly onto my board, and it functions perfectly well, although I did remove the rumble motor. It wasn't as difficult to work with as I had anticipated, but going forward I would like to try experimenting with the GC+ in future builds. The only reason I didn't for this particular build was because I wanted to keep the original body of the Gamecube controller.
I also successfully connected composite video directly to the motherboard, and it works perfectly well. I'm still waiting for my screen to come in, and I intend on attempting to connect audio to a 3.5mm jack. I bought an RCA to 3.5mm adapter piece and I wanted to try connecting that adapter directly onto the board. This allows me to start desoldering the AV port.
I managed to desolder the USB port five minutes ago, I am now going to try reconnecting it via wires instead of the original solder pads for relocation.
My next relocation will be the U10 chip.
Noah got back to me and I just submitted my payment for the Powermii Lite

As a beginner to the scene as well I feel your pain in waiting for equipment. I try to use my waiting time doing additional research and looking into others projects.

As a tip for the Bluetooth traces, especially if you’re somewhat new to soldering, start out practicing on the traces far away from the GPU. Go to the part of the traces that you will be cutting off anyways and practice soldering to them there. I started a little too close to the GPU and one of my traces went right up next to it before I finally got it! It’ll save you some stress knowing that it’s fine when you mess up. :p Also look into getting some soldering flux, it’s not needed and most tasks are pretty easily done without it (considering rosin core solder already has flux in the core) but it can make lots of these jobs a bit less complicated.
Thanks for the advice! I use 1mm rosin core solder as it is, that has flux inside it. It's been working great. I'll definitely practice with the Bluetooth chip further away from the GPU like you recommended, but my worry with soldering the Bluetooth isn't even soldering the wires to the board. It's soldering wires to the chip itself. The pins on the chip seem impossibly small and close together to work with. I'm still trying to find some kind of technique that works for very small pins like that. I am still waiting for my 34 AWG wire to come in the mail, and I don't think I want to risk the relocation before I get that thinner wire, just to be safe.
 
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So I have a bunch of project updates!

I successfully connected a Gamecube controller directly onto my board, and it functions perfectly well, although I did remove the rumble motor. It wasn't as difficult to work with as I had anticipated, but going forward I would like to try experimenting with the GC+ in future builds. The only reason I didn't for this particular build was because I wanted to keep the original body of the Gamecube controller.
I also successfully connected composite video directly to the motherboard, and it works perfectly well. I'm still waiting for my screen to come in, and I intend on attempting to connect audio to a 3.5mm jack. I bought an RCA to 3.5mm adapter piece and I wanted to try connecting that adapter directly onto the board. This allows me to start desoldering the AV port.
I managed to desolder the USB port five minutes ago, I am now going to try reconnecting it via wires instead of the original solder pads for relocation.
My next relocation will be the U10 chip.
Noah got back to me and I just submitted my payment for the Powermii Lite



Thanks for the advice! I use 1mm rosin core solder as it is, that has flux inside it. It's been working great. I'll definitely practice with the Bluetooth chip further away from the GPU like you recommended, but my worry with soldering the Bluetooth isn't even soldering the wires to the board. It's soldering wires to the chip itself. The pins on the chip seem impossibly small and close together to work with. I'm still trying to find some kind of technique that works for very small pins like that. I am still waiting for my 34 AWG wire to come in the mail, and I don't think I want to risk the relocation before I get that thinner wire, just to be safe.
Are you talking about the pins on the connector portion of the chip? On the backside of the chip there are test pads on one end that are much easier to connect too. You may have to remove the sticker to find them. Check out the trimming guide to see what i mean. Those pads are pretty simple to hook too, probably one of the easier things in the whole process, the traces on the board are way more difficult.
 
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