Discussion I'm making a Wii portable called the Poriblii, I need help

[ATmel91]

So, a while ago I've decided to make a portable wii, I'm naming it the Portiblii! and I need help with its internals. I'm going to order some 18650 3-6Ah batteries wired in 4P (with internal protection because safety first), a 5" AV display, boost converter and buck converters for the power displacement of the trimmed board itself, a DAC and class D audio amp, some cheap GC controller I can trim for the buttons, and various other things like an arduino battery level indicator and "smart circuit protector" to be ultra safe. But my issue is, am I doing it right? I think I have power sorted out just fine, the buck converters have adjustable voltage out from 1-(5?)V so thats all good. I am young, only 14 going on 15 as of now, but have been working with electronics and circuits for almost 3 years now. Any advice is very helpful! Also, if I am violating any rules please let me know! I just joined today and i think im not doing anything bad.



Im just awaiting for money to come in and me to order some parts.

 

[Shank]

I think you should do some more reading before you continue digging. You should have your board running on custom regulators and relocations BEFORE you trim it. That trim is really rough, and is unlikely to even boot. You should follow the guide and trim on the lines: the lines are drawn where they are for a reason. The Wii is many layers: just because you don't see anything doesn't mean theres nothing there.
So the 5V rail doesn't run to the board; nothing on the board itself uses 5v. You also neglected to add any lithium battery protection, which is EXTREMELY dangerous, and something you should never omit under any circumstances. Instead of running a bunch of boost and buck regulators and extra circuitry, just pick up a Wii PMS from the BitBuilt store, it'll save you a headache. Im never going back to hand wired regulators. As for the audio, a U-Amp from the BitBuilt store is the way to go. Running speaker audio through a switching headphone jack is a great way to kill both your headphones and your eardrums.

 

[Kotako]

I know this is a really weird question, but is it safe to buy parts at bitbuild's store?
I'm always skeptic when I have to put my credit card info in some online store

 

[wudopecker]

I know this is a really weird question, but is it safe to buy parts at bitbuild's store?
I'm always skeptic when I have to put my credit card info in some online store

you should make your own thread for questions, but yes it is, you can even use paypal if you dont like filling in your credit card information

 

[Stitches]

I know this is a really weird question, but is it safe to buy parts at bitbuild's store?
I'm always skeptic when I have to put my credit card info in some online store

Paypal m8. But yes, the BB store is secure.

 

[Doom]

I know this is a really weird question, but is it safe to buy parts at bitbuild's store?
I'm always skeptic when I have to put my credit card info in some online store

who would give a dog a credit card?

 

[ATmel91]

I think you should do some more reading before you continue digging. You should have your board running on custom regulators and relocations BEFORE you trim it. That trim is really rough, and is unlikely to even boot. You should follow the guide and trim on the lines: the lines are drawn where they are for a reason. The Wii is many layers: just because you don't see anything doesn't mean theres nothing there.
So the 5V rail doesn't run to the board; nothing on the board itself uses 5v. You also neglected to add any lithium battery protection, which is EXTREMELY dangerous, and something you should never omit under any circumstances. Instead of running a bunch of boost and buck regulators and extra circuitry, just pick up a Wii PMS from the BitBuilt store, it'll save you a headache. Im never going back to hand wired regulators. As for the audio, a U-Amp from the BitBuilt store is the way to go. Running speaker audio through a switching headphone jack is a great way to kill both your headphones and your eardrums.

Oh! I forgot bout battery protection.. thank you for helping me sorry for taking up your time, I'm still learning half the things you guys already know, I'm working on the ability to finish projects too.

Would anybody have a recommendation for something on banggood I could order? I would love to get Gmans Wii PMS, but.. I just don't have that type of money.

 

[Noah]

Would anybody have a recommendation for something on banggood I could order? I would love to get Gmans Wii PMS, but.. I just don't have that type of money.

Unfortunately a portable is not a cheap project. Unless you already have tools, you can expect to pay $300-$500 because you’re starting from essentially scratch.

Trying to cheap out on things, especially power related things, has almost always ended in disaster for everyone who tried. Portables take a lot of work and time to build and you’re essentially gambling all of that when you use cheap Chinese power solutions.

 

[Bob]

You should have your board running on custom regulators and relocations BEFORE you trim it

The guide says to do relocations before the trim, but it specifically recommends you trim before connecting custom regulators (since they'll compete with the onboard regs). Has this advice changed? If so, which components do you remove to disable the onboard regs?

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but didn't feel like this question deserved it's own thread.

 

[GBAGuy007]

The guide says to do relocations before the trim, but it specifically recommends you trim before connecting custom regulators (since they'll compete with the onboard regs). Has this advice changed? If so, which components do you remove to disable the onboard regs?

Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask, but didn't feel like this question deserved it's own thread.

I am not Shank so I may be interpreting this wrong but it sounds like he meant to do a relocation one at a time (then test with onboard regs) then after you are satisfied, cut the board and the first thing you should do (after sanding of course) is to connect your custom regs.
The forum rules might say to post a new thread for every question, but I can see why you didn't want to make a new one just for confirmation.

 

[cheese]

You can also remove the onboard regulators and then test your custom regulators before trimming, but if you check your regulators before you connect them, you will most likely not have any problems and can just go straight to trimming after testing your relocations.

 

[ATmel91]

Unfortunately a portable is not a cheap project. Unless you already have tools, you can expect to pay $300-$500 because you’re starting from essentially scratch.

Trying to cheap out on things, especially power related things, has almost always ended in disaster for everyone who tried. Portables take a lot of work and time to build and you’re essentially gambling all of that when you use cheap Chinese power solutions.

I already have a 3D printer, plentiful amounts of flux, solder, and tools. But I do need another Iron. I should be having one dontated to me soon.

 

[ATmel91]

Unfortunately a portable is not a cheap project. Unless you already have tools, you can expect to pay $300-$500 because you’re starting from essentially scratch.

Trying to cheap out on things, especially power related things, has almost always ended in disaster for everyone who tried. Portables take a lot of work and time to build and you’re essentially gambling all of that when you use cheap Chinese power solutions.

I have placed an order for a PCB I made, costing about $55 for 10x SMT assembled boards, including shipping, it features a TP4056, DW01+G, and SDB628 ICs. I will post schematics and gerber.zip and all the other files. https://github.com/EzraWolf
EDIT: I know it is unwise to just order an STM assembled board with no way of testing it until paid for and shipped, but this is also going as a science fair project for my school due in two weeks. Well.. corona virus has probably made the delay a bit longer, but who cares.

 

[Stitches]

it features a TP4056

 

[cheese]

but this is also going as a science fair project for my school due in two weeks.

I hope you have a backup plan for when this doesn't pan out, because the delays alone due to the coronavirus will make your project late by at least a month or two.

 

[ATmel91]

View attachment 10527

what do you expect me to use? some X3B981n019LS74001?

 

[Stitches]

what do you expect me to use? some X3B981n019LS74001?

I expected something a bit more capable than a single cell 1A charge IC. You'll have a fire on your hands if you try to charge two or more cells with that.

 

[ATmel91]

I expected something a bit more capable than a single cell 1A charge IC. You'll have a fire on your hands if you try to charge two or more cells with that.

Well no dip, it's one cell = one PCB. 4 cells = 4 PCBs.

 

[Noah]

Dude, we're trying to help you avoid a hardware meltdown here. It's pretty clear you don't really understand what you're doing.

 

[ATmel91]

Dude, we're trying to help you avoid a hardware meltdown here. It's pretty clear you don't really understand what you're doing.

Youre right I dont. But this board is meant for a LiPo, not a Li-Ion. It's also only meant for low-mAH batteries, probably 1000-3000mAH. I can adjust the charge rate by de-soldering the rProg resistor on the TP4056. If I really wanted to used the Li-Ion batteries with this, I would've catered my project based around them, but this is for a separate project, I just wanted to test and see if it worked with a 18650. I would probably just order a 4x cell holder like how AA or AAA batteries have their little casings, and take them out and slap them on a 18650 charger.

Guys, I'm trying my all I can give best. I don't have a school in my district to actually teach myself this stuff. Let alone, pay for a college nearby in my city once I get to that point.