Just tried this a few times, but the hot glue just lets go of the screwdriver. Maybe superglue?
These would work if the screw was at the surface, but I don't have any tools narrow enough to accomplish that.
I might have to go with this...Which side of the Wii is considered the bottom?
I consider the bottom to be what the motherboard and stuff all screw into, basically the orientation I have in the picture
I second this. Just drill the entire head off so there's only the shaft and the case should slip right over it. Of course you'll be one screw short if you decide to put that one back together too
I usually get one of those fat red rubber bands, put it flat over the screw head, push down hard with the screwdriver(but not hard enough to pierce the rubber band) and turn it slowly until the screw gives in.OK, so small update/ question. Got a different Wii that previously had issues to install PortablizeMii with no hiccups whatsoever, so I put the first Wii back together. (And by that I mean I electrical taped the Bluetooth/WiFi Boards down, screwed the heatsink back on, put the case back on, and called it good.) The issue with the new Wii is that there is a stripped screw in the most inconvenient spot. There are two screws that run through basically the whole Wii, and the stripped one is one of those. It's about an inch from the top of the hole to the screw, so many of the methods I've tried to get it out haven't worked. I tried making a BIC pen screwdriver (It was too wide so it just mushed up around the beginning of the hole), tried using a rubber band between the screwdriver, but all this did was make the stripped screw worse. Do you guys have any suggestions on how to get it out?
I'm not even sure how the screw got stripped in the first place. Maybe there's a Wiikey at the end of this rainbow...
The idea is not to put solder on the iron and then touch the iron to the board. That's the wrong way of doing it. You need to put the iron to the object you want to solder and put the solder to the object. That way the object will be heated and solder will want to flow into it. Make sure you have a clean tip and use plenty of flux especially when you haven't soldered to the object before. If you still have no success turn up the heat. I generally use 350C but it often need to turn up the heat to ~400C to reheat the manufacture solder.
I had that issue all the time with my old soldering iron. That one didn't have a temperature control, and my new one does and that fixed it immediately. If you can, try turning up the heat like jefflongo said. Also, make sure your tip is clean. Sometimes they get corroded and that can make them act weird. If it's not shiny / silver when you get solder on it, consider cleaning it. Also, make sure you're using a sponge when soldering. It's also important that you're using the iron to heat the pin, then touch the solder to the pin not the iron.
I little bit, but the difference in size on what I was soldering on is drastically different. I'll probably get some junk stuff to practice on, that's a good idea.
I'm borrowing a soldering iron from my school which is a standard black one with one heat setting. We do have ones that change temperature though, so I'll grab one of those on Monday and see if it helps. Now that I think about it, I did use one of the temperature changing irons on my school project, and I had less issues. That will probably help.
That makes a night/day difference for sure, the temperature changing ones are usually much higher quality compared to the 15$ radioshack ones
Removing the ports themselves almost never causes problems (unless you short or bridge something by accident while removing them) And you can test it yourself by lowering the power supply to 5v. If it doesn't turn on then you may need to remove an on-board regulator or some other shennanigans to get it to work.
Have you tested the regulators when they are not connected to the Wii?
