GameCube JoyCon CAD Files

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I’ve started modelling them too. With these pieces built in so to speak. I’ll share if I get the shells good enough. If you manage it beforehand I’d love to give them a try.
I most likely won't be able to do that before you but if you're going to do so that will be amazing. It will save all the measurmants with a 3d model of the rails. I'll still need to figure out how to make the centerpiece in a way where the rails won't fall out of it.

Also don't forget to add a hole for the second Z button in blender.
 

Wesk

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I was actually thinking of taking shells and 3d scanning them somehow so in Blender I can make printable models that are already cut in half. I mean one day there won't be any shells remaining in this world so this will be a workaround
I’ve started modelling them too. With these pieces built in so to speak. I’ll share if I get the shells good enough. If you manage it beforehand I’d love to give them a try.

Get to it then lads.
 
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Thank you man that will help even more

--------MERGE POST--------

Hmmmm only problem I seem to have is to actually get Gamecube controller actuators. I can't find original spare ones online. Can it also be 3d scanned in theory?

--------YET ANOTHER MERGE--------

Ok so here what I might do. I'll get a power A wireless controller for the switch, might as well take the buttons from it, I'll take the actuators from it too, attempt to 3d scan them and add the short plug to fix the clickiness of the shoulder pads, maybe even see if there's a difference between the wii u stick box and the power A stick box maybe I can use the Power A one instead if it doesn't ruin the traditional feeling. If that won't work I'll get an Exlene Gamceube controller and test that one out too.
 
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Wesk

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I'll take the actuators from it too, attempt to 3d scan them and add the short plug to fix the clickiness of the shoulder pads, maybe even see if there's a difference between the wii u stick box and the power A stick box maybe I can use the Power A one instead if it doesn't ruin the traditional feeling.
I assume you're talking about the trigger mounts? I'm not sure how you're going to scan them but they are a fairly simple part to model from scratch. I don't think 3D scanning them is going to help in any way.
 
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I assume you're talking about the trigger mounts? I'm not sure how you're going to scan them but they are a fairly simple part to model from scratch. I don't think 3D scanning them is going to help in any way.
I would model it from scratch but I don't know how the actuators even look like in real life up close. In the video he had to even cut one to make it fit and then add a 3d printed part to it. Yes it will save tons of work to actually model a merged version of the original actuator and the 3d printed part that he made but I will need to know how the thing looks like from all sides.
 

Wesk

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currently trying to add a hole for a second Z button, if anyone happens to know where I can get a 3d model of a z button it will help me spare a lot of time modeling the shape of one that perfectly matches the hole.
 
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1607777246675.png


Ok update on that one I managed to do make the shape of the hole for the z button and I can use it to carve a whole on the left side of the controller but before I do that I want to check with you guys if I did that correctly by this image, if the shell is connected correctly and if I should still use a model of an actual z button to carve that hole?
 
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Hello again, sorry for being gone, I had to take my pc to repairs and the technician at the lab cause further damage to the computer rather than fixing it rendering it unusable for any work, so I got a new pc and managed to salvage most of my work from the old one as the old one was pretty much beyond repair. I'll redo the shells project as soon as possible and in top speed.

Happy new year guys
 

Shank

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thats the reason I am not gonna even try this
Please do not bump old threads unless you have something significant or essential to contribute.
 
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Almost 4 years past the original post... I hope this is "significant" or "essential" enough to not get deleted. I think this project was an amazing idea, but don't believe many people actually made these for themselves. Still, I refined the original idea, mostly by 3d-printing the entire shell. This should make these much easer to replicate for anyone with a soldering station, microscope and a dremel.

WaveCon_Front.png
WaveCon_Back.png


I used a single sacrificial wired Gamecube controller for screws, PCBs, shoulder brackets and buttons. Also a Joycon grip for the metal rails and more screws.
The +, -, Home and Capture-Buttons are also 3d-printed.
I added extensions for proper JC rail releases instead of friction fits.
The orginal PCB is cut up and fits perfectly. There is no need for an extended stick mount since you just need to slightly trim the plastic peg. Other than that, the stickboxes are the exact same size.
The wiring and solderpoints is just as tricky as Shank describes, but the stick-clicks are not being pulled high. Also, my right joycon PCB was of the newer type with different antenna placement. Documentation on all the solder points is still lacking sadly. I became very good friends with my multimeter...

The 3d-printed shells have mounting points for the Z-Buttons, rumble motors, PCBs etc. Assembling everything is pretty straight forward.

Again, I just wanted to share the finished project and release the CAD Files for anyone who's only concern was breaking a perfectly good Wavebird. I didn't document much of the process since this is my first modding project.
Thanks to Shank for the great idea :)
 

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Almost 4 years past the original post... I hope this is "significant" or "essential" enough to not get deleted. I think this project was an amazing idea, but don't believe many people actually made these for themselves. Still, I refined the original idea, mostly by 3d-printing the entire shell. This should make these much easer to replicate for anyone with a soldering station, microscope and a dremel.

View attachment 30411View attachment 30412

I used a single sacrificial wired Gamecube controller for screws, PCBs, shoulder brackets and buttons. Also a Joycon grip for the metal rails and more screws.
The +, -, Home and Capture-Buttons are also 3d-printed.
I added extensions for proper JC rail releases instead of friction fits.
The orginal PCB is cut up and fits perfectly. There is no need for an extended stick mount since you just need to slightly trim the plastic peg. Other than that, the stickboxes are the exact same size.
The wiring and solderpoints is just as tricky as Shank describes, but the stick-clicks are not being pulled high. Also, my right joycon PCB was of the newer type with different antenna placement. Documentation on all the solder points is still lacking sadly. I became very good friends with my multimeter...

The 3d-printed shells have mounting points for the Z-Buttons, rumble motors, PCBs etc. Assembling everything is pretty straight forward.

Again, I just wanted to share the finished project and release the CAD Files for anyone who's only concern was breaking a perfectly good Wavebird. I didn't document much of the process since this is my first modding project.
Thanks to Shank for the great idea :)
Hey so I am interested in building one of these but I noticed for the STL files you uploaded Wavecon_L_Front was just the back half I was wondering if you could reupload the files.
 
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My bad. This should have the correct file. I found that printing the pieces like this gives by far the best results.
Screenshot 2023-11-18 124723.png

Still, some sanding and drilling will be 100% necessary:
-the lower screw posts did not fit well, preventing the shells from fully closing.
-holes for the Z-Buttons were too small
etc.
Your experience will vary, depending on printer settings, material and luck in general.
But I'm happy to help :)

Note: Stick-Types (aftermarket ones are a bit wider than original, which is bad)
The middle piece is best printed standing upright. Also, one of the screw-holes is misaligned in my design. Glue is the better option anyway.
 

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My bad. This should have the correct file. I found that printing the pieces like this gives by far the best results.
View attachment 30846
Still, some sanding and drilling will be 100% necessary:
-the lower screw posts did not fit well, preventing the shells from fully closing.
-holes for the Z-Buttons were too small
etc.
Your experience will vary, depending on printer settings, material and luck in general.
But I'm happy to help :)

Note: Stick-Types (aftermarket ones are a bit wider than original, which is bad)
The middle piece is best printed standing upright. Also, one of the screw-holes is misaligned in my design. Glue is the better option anyway.
Thank you for uploading it!
 
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