Just to test if your left / right are working, can you toggle back and forth on the wifi patch option?
G-boy rev 3 vga problem?
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Glad to hear you got it to work, it could just be a dirty conductive membrane, did you use button pads from an original DS Lite? I know I've had to clean mine with some IPA.
A clock! That means your MX chip is all good to go.
A clock! That means your MX chip is all good to go.
1NK
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Ok, so I tried wiring up the bluetooth module, and after soldering everything I was going to scratch off the silkscreen to solder the last two pieces of magnet wire to the very small traces, when I accidentally bent the traces. Luckily the G-boy still works, but I'm going to hold off from including the Bluetooth module for now until I know a better and safer way to remove the silkscreen layer. I was thinking maybe a fine grit sandpaper pen could work to remove it.
What do you mean by bent the traces? Send a pic here.
The best way to scratch the soldermask is to use a brand new / sharp x-acto knife, and gently scrape (you don't need much pressure at all).
The best way to scratch the soldermask is to use a brand new / sharp x-acto knife, and gently scrape (you don't need much pressure at all).
1NK
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I would send pictures but when I was closing the shell yesterday one of the screws wouldn't fully screw in, and after trying to unscrew all of them, one of the screws had been stripped. So the shell is stuck closed at the moment.
Ok, I just got the shell back open, and I got some brand new x-acto blades. tomorrow I'll see about sending the pictures of the bent traces, and I'll give the bluetooth module relocation another shot now that I have fresh x-acto blades. I wasn't going to attempt the bluetooth module relocation again because after bending the traces to the point where I thought they may break, I didn't want to ruin the entire project because of that mistake.
I'll post pictures of the "bent traces" before I try the bluetooth module relocation.
Ok, I just got the shell back open, and I got some brand new x-acto blades. tomorrow I'll see about sending the pictures of the bent traces, and I'll give the bluetooth module relocation another shot now that I have fresh x-acto blades. I wasn't going to attempt the bluetooth module relocation again because after bending the traces to the point where I thought they may break, I didn't want to ruin the entire project because of that mistake.
I'll post pictures of the "bent traces" before I try the bluetooth module relocation.
Dude, use the edit button
Triple posting is ModRetro as fuck
Triple posting is ModRetro as fuck
1NK
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Ah. Apologies. I don't know why I never saw that button, honest.
Anyway here is a picture of the traces.
Upon looking at them again I'm not sure if they're "bent", but what do you all think? I'm aware I did a bad job initially.
Sorry for triple posting again, I should've known better.
Edit: I have a better picture of the traces after scratching them with a new x-acto blade.
They don't really look bent now that I cleaned them up some more.
Anyway here is a picture of the traces.
Upon looking at them again I'm not sure if they're "bent", but what do you all think? I'm aware I did a bad job initially.
Sorry for triple posting again, I should've known better.
Edit: I have a better picture of the traces after scratching them with a new x-acto blade.
They don't really look bent now that I cleaned them up some more.
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It looks like you exposed a lot of the ground plane on both sides of the two bluetooth traces, so I would be especially careful about how much exposed wire you have coming off of the joints to those two lines; also be sure to test your resistances between those lines and each other / ground to ensure there are no shorts. It doesn't look like your two BT lines are making very solid connections, especially the top one. You should be able to give both of them a light tug without them popping off. If you feel like you screwed up scratching the mask at that point, you can always try it at another spot.
Also, looking at those solder joints, the joints on the BT module itself, and just some more around the Wii board, it looks like you're not using enough flux for the solder to flow properly to the pads / traces / vias. The joints should be shiny and organic-looking, without any raised points / bumps / cancerous tumors.
Also, looking at those solder joints, the joints on the BT module itself, and just some more around the Wii board, it looks like you're not using enough flux for the solder to flow properly to the pads / traces / vias. The joints should be shiny and organic-looking, without any raised points / bumps / cancerous tumors.
What's your iron temperature at? And what kind of tip are you using? I usually use around 350C / 650F, and a small, chisel like tip for a lot of surface contact between the iron and the pad.
Lower your temperature and space out the distance of where to solder. I used the same tip that came with my hakko and it worked fine.
Definitely an improvement over the last ones, but it still doesn't look like they're super secure in place, rather more or less tacked there. Again, you should be able to give them a light tug without them popping off. Also be sure to check resistances between the lines and each other / ground, just to make sure it all looks good before you turn the Wii on.