Question First Wii Portable (Gwii Case). Several Questions before I start trimming.

[Stephano]

So I have just began my first attempt at a portable Wii using Gman’s Gwii case (already 3D printed) and before I start trimming, I have several questions I hope to get answered.

Bill of Materials

I don’t plan on implementing all of the features used in the Gwii and will stick to the basic U10 and Bluetooth relocation. I know I have to buy the 4-5 voltage regulators from TI but as for batteries, buttons, screens, ect, I’m not sure what to get. Does anyone have a BOM of components that they used that they would be willing to share?

Where can I get a GC+ board?

The shop has said coming soon for a while and I would very much like to purchase one just because it would be easier.

Relocating certain components on a 6-Layer board

Looking at the 6-Layer expansion page, I understand most of what is shown except for the GC part, specifically the data lines 1-4. What am I supposed to connect them too? If I’m going to use a GC controller adapter, do I have to worry about the controller ports? As well, what are the GCVideo vias?

Removing the Bluetooth Module

Apparently relocating the Bluetooth module on the 6-Layer board is much easier than the 4-Layer, but how exactly do I remove the part form the board? Do I dermal it off or pull it off?

Heat

The 6-Layer boards get pretty toasty apparently. I was just planning on using the fan that came with the Wii but I guess I’m going to need a bit more.

Relocating Audio and Video

Looking at the trims for both the 4-Layer and the 6-Layer board, why exactly do we cut through the audio and video port? The board doesn’t take up to much space and could we not just solder directly to the pins underneath the port to get audio and video out?


Those are really the major questions I have. I may have more as I am really afraid to destroy the board or get lost. I only spent $13 on this wii so it’s not a total loss if I mess up.

 

[DeoNaught]

Heeyyyy Stephano, it's been a while

BOM
For batteries and what not, we usually direct people here ->>https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/portablizing-bom.367/
if something's out of stock you'll have to find another one of course, but it's where alot of us go to get parts.

For GC+ you can make a thread in the User Trading Area(if you have access to it), and someone usually has one laying around.

You connect the data line from the gamecube controller to the component.
if you are using a usb gamecube adapter, you don't have to wire up the controller ports, BUT gamecube controllers won't work in Portablize Mii, because they only work in Nintendon't.

You can just pull off the Bluetooth mother board, It's just connected by a connector, so you can put back on later if you want to.

Spoiler: Wii audio (click me)

we can just wire to the cap leg circled in red to get composite(same with Component video), it saves even more space, and removing ports with alot of pins, is really no fun.

And then for audio you can just solder to the legs on the Pre-amp the 932AMPAM, saves even more space ^^

For Heating, I'll let someone more experienced answer that, because I don't know if my set up works or not.
Do you have both 4 layer wii and a 6 layer wii?


And welcome to Bitbuilt :3

 

[Stephano]

Heeyyyy Stephano, it's been a while

BOM
For batteries and what not, we usually direct people here ->>https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/portablizing-bom.367/
if something's out of stock you'll have to find another one of course, but it's where alot of us go to get parts.

For GC+ you can make a thread in the User Trading Area(if you have access to it), and someone usually has one laying around.

You connect the data line from the gamecube controller to the component.
if you are using a usb gamecube adapter, you don't have to wire up the controller ports, BUT gamecube controllers won't work in Portablize Mii, because they only work in Nintendon't.

You can just pull off the Bluetooth mother board, It's just connected by a connector, so you can put back on later if you want to.

Spoiler: Wii audio (click me)

View attachment 8394
we can just wire to the cap leg circled in red to get composite(same with Component video), it saves even more space, and removing ports with alot of pins, is really no fun.

View attachment 8395
And then for audio you can just solder to the legs on the Pre-amp the 932AMPAM, saves even more space ^^

For Heating, I'll let someone more experienced answer that, because I don't know if my set up works or not.
Do you have both 4 layer wii and a 6 layer wii?


And welcome to Bitbuilt :3

It has been a while. Some things happened so I decided to leave the Temp to sort life out.

I didn't see that thread. Thank you.

Okay, I'll ask around in the trading area once I got bluetooth working.

There are 4 data lines though. So are there 4 data lines on the controller?

The modual is really stuck on there. Is to safe to apply a lot of force?

Alright

Alright

It's a 6-Layer board so heat will be an issue.

Thank you for your welcome. It's weird being on forums again.

What I have done since my OP is de-solder U10 and place it on U5 but now weird things are happening. The power light comes on red (as it should) but when I try to turn it on, it glows green for about a second and then shuts off entirely. Not to sure what the issue is.
Edit: I know there is a trace I'm supposed to cut on the 6-Layer board but it doesn't match the pictures so i don't know what to cut.

 

[DeoNaught]

The Four data lines are for the players 1 through 4, so you only wire one data line to your gamecube controller(or GC+)

Yeah, just pull it off and it should be fine, the worse that would happen would be breaking the connector, but it doesn't matter since you plan to wire it up anyways.

with your u10, I'm assuming you wired the correct pin to the via? (I don't see the trace either, someone else should know so lets wait for them to post )

 

[jefflongo]

Here is the answer to your question about U10 https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/u10-relocation.2660/#post-32659

 

[Stephano]

Good news, the relocation was a success! The wii booted up into portablize me. In addition, the wire connecting U10 to the via on the otherside of the board came off after it sucessfully booted. I turned it off and turned it back on and sure enough, it didn't boot. So far things are looking good. I have to find a good way to get the wire to stay on the via but after that, I can relocate the bluetooth.

 

[Stephano]

I have two questions...
So I tried to relocate my USB port using a spare one I had lying around. However, the wii isn't reading this new port. Its using data lines 6-7 and the 5V and ground is coming from the places I circled in blue. Is the port just bad or could it be something else?

I also had a question about the audio and video @DeoNaught . If I am wanting to test the audio and video before I trim, is it possible to solder the y/r/w wires to a standard av cable and connect that to a TV? Would that actually work. I thing I saw one video where they connected it to a female to male AV cable and it worked. Also, after trimming, how do I power the preamp? Is the voltage just directly taken from the battery to the pre-amp?

 

[GingerOfOz]

You really need to pick up some 34 or 38 gauge magnet wire for the vias. Your USB definitely isn't working because the two data wires need to be twisted very tightly together, much tighter than you could hope to do either that thick wire. The magnet wire makes soldering to vias much, much easier. Also are you sure that those vias you soldered to on the data lines are actually the data lines? You definitely soldered to different points than are what are in the guide, and I don't think those vias you used are the right ones.

You can definitely wire up an external port to test video. Just make sure to wire up a ground line from the Wii to the shielding on the port, because there needs to be a common ground between screen and Wii for video to output properly.

And yes, wiring your battery out voltage to the preamp is your best option if you're keeping the preamp. I prefer to just wire to vias before the preamp, but it's up to you which you want to do.

 

[Stephano]

You really need to pick up some 34 or 38 gauge magnet wire for the vias. Your USB definitely isn't working because the two data wires need to be twisted very tightly together, much tighter than you could hope to do either that thick wire. The magnet wire makes soldering to vias much, much easier. Also are you sure that those vias you soldered to on the data lines are actually the data lines? You definitely soldered to different points than are what are in the guide, and I don't think those vias you used are the right ones.

You can definitely wire up an external port to test video. Just make sure to wire up a ground line from the Wii to the shielding on the port, because there needs to be a common ground between screen and Wii for video to output properly.

And yes, wiring your battery out voltage to the preamp is your best option if you're keeping the preamp. I prefer to just wire to vias before the preamp, but it's up to you which you want to do.

I'll see if I can pick up some magnet wire. I'v really just been using what is available inside or EE lab. Although I havn't had much issues soldering to the vias despite their size.

You mentioned twisting the wires. What do you mean by this? The wires I used are around 30 awg which I thought would be okay. I guess not?

The points I soldered the data wires too are the ones on the six layer guide. The bluetooth connection worked just fine (at least I think it does. the wii mote still works and moves around on the screen) so i used the same technique to do the data lines.

I apologize, but external port? Are you referring to just a standard male-to-male AV cable or a wii AV cable?
As for grounding, of course, I will make sure to do that. (connect all grounds together on the cables and ground it to the ground plane on the wii)

Wait is the preamp optional? I always though it was necessary. How do I not use it and what would happen if I didn't.

Thank you.

 

[GingerOfOz]

By twisting the wires, I mean wrapping the two data lines around each other very, very tightly. This helps reduce the interference.

And you are definitely soldering to the right spots for USB. I was thinking four layer board so that's my bad

To not use the preamp, you should just with up audio to a spot before the preamp, like the spots I have circled here:

 

[Stephano]

By twisting the wires, I mean wrapping the two data lines around each other very, very tightly. This helps reduce the interference.

And you are definitely soldering to the right spots for USB. I was thinking four layer board so that's my bad

To not use the preamp, you should just with up audio to a spot before the preamp, like the spots I have circled here:View attachment 8449

How thick of a shielding should be on the data wires and what is the best way to keep the two really tight after I twist them?

 

[cheese]

How thick of a shielding should be on the data wires and what is the best way to keep the two really tight after I twist them?

If you twist magnet wire together it stays twisted like a twist tie

 

[Stephano]

If you twist magnet wire together it stays twisted like a twist tie

I guess I really do need to pick up some magnet wire.


Also, I may have destroyed one the capacitor before the preamp. I tried to solder wire to it and I guess something went wrong. The pad on the side of the capacitor facing the preamp is gone.... What should I do?

 

[jefflongo]

I guess I really do need to pick up some magnet wire.


Also, I may have destroyed one the capacitor before the preamp. I tried to solder wire to it and I guess something went wrong. The pad on the side of the capacitor facing the preamp is gone.... What should I do?

Just solder to the other side of the capacitor pad. But you should really reevaluate the iron you're using or your technique.. Definitely turn the temp down.

 

[Stephano]

Just solder to the other side of the capacitor pad. But you should really reevaluate the iron you're using or your technique.. Definitely turn the temp down.

Maybe I chose the wrong profession because I have been cursed with unsteady hands. I love soldering and have done a ton of it but I break a ton of stuff because of my hands.
As for the iron... well our college has really crappy equipment and I mean really really bad. I'll be sure to turn down the heat.
Good to know it aint toast just yet.

Edit: Also, what is the appropriate gauge wire for audio and video? I've already attached some wire to the 10K resistors that are in series with the capacitors in spot that was circled. I want to make sure that that is indeed okay.

 

[DeoNaught]

Maybe I chose the wrong profession because I have been cursed with unsteady hands. I love soldering and have done a ton of it but I break a ton of stuff because of my hands.

Cool trick I learned to being off drugs and shaky af, Put your arms on the table or surface you are using, and then solder, your hands will shake alot less.

 

[Stephano]

That's what I normally do, it's mainly my fingers that can't keep still lol.

Looking at the trim guide, I feel like I'm missing something. I've wired the yellow, white, red, and ground wires, but am supposed to do anything else for a 6-layer board? I can't test it right now so I when I take this home, I want to make sure I already did everything.

 

[DeoNaught]

Just your Video needs to be connected to try, Just double check USB, and everything else, did you wire up your regs already?

 

[Stephano]

Just your Video needs to be connected to try, Just double check USB, and everything else, did you wire up your regs already?

I have yet to trim it. I wanted to make sure U10, Bluetooth, AV, and USB were all functional before I trim. Currently I'm still trying to get USB to work. When I plug in my Flash drive to the USB ports on the wii, the LED on the drive lights up (as it should). However, the light does not come on when I plug it into the USB port I attached. I don't know if it is because it is a bad port or if my data wires are still not up to par.

 

[GingerOfOz]

If you haven't changed the data wires out for twisted magnet wire, then I can guarantee that your USB won't work until you do.