Worklog First N64 Portable

Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
A little update:
After some research and scouring the web I found this screen that others have used before for a decent price: https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...3f14f414d4eb1ac44ee7bfc22b957&ck=in_edm_other

Many people have used it and the price wasn't half bad, with epacket shipping I'll get it in 16-25 days so it's not too long of a wait. As for the red charging board all the shipping estimates are quite long, so I'm looking for possible alternatives.

I'm looking now for power boards, the redboard @Booshman used is available pretty cheap but the shipping times are aweful, I'll probably only get it in April. My local electronics store has this: https://abra-electronics.com/batter...l-lipo-batteries-charger-balancer-module.html

Unfortunately I don't think this is quite what I need. I don't think it would be good for a dock, charge and play solution.
If you have the room you could use 2 ports?
 
Joined
Nov 28, 2016
Messages
95
Likes
177
Location
United Arab Emirates
Portables
2
A little update:
After some research and scouring the web I found this screen that others have used before for a decent price: https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot...3f14f414d4eb1ac44ee7bfc22b957&ck=in_edm_other

Many people have used it and the price wasn't half bad, with epacket shipping I'll get it in 16-25 days so it's not too long of a wait. As for the red charging board all the shipping estimates are quite long, so I'm looking for possible alternatives.

I'm looking now for power boards, the redboard @Booshman used is available pretty cheap but the shipping times are aweful, I'll probably only get it in April. My local electronics store has this: https://abra-electronics.com/batter...l-lipo-batteries-charger-balancer-module.html

Unfortunately I don't think this is quite what I need. I don't think it would be good for a dock, charge and play solution.
You could order the red board, then use another supply in the mean time for testing, because you'll also be 3d modeling right?

If you really dont wanna wait, just go for step-up/step-down converters. making your own power management system.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
You could order the red board, then use another supply in the mean time for testing, because you'll also be 3d modeling right?

If you really dont wanna wait, just go for step-up/step-down converters. making your own power management system.
Ended up ordering the red board from AliExpress and the seller had a few other items I tossed in to save on shipping. It's epacket which usually takes around 15-25 days but every time I've ordered it, I usually only wait 2 weeks so I'm hoping to get stuff mid month. I found these 18650 battery holders which have tabs for soldering as well as holes for what seem like me screws, so it's perfect for anchoring into a 3d part with heated inserts.
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTVcx2D

I found these speakers as well:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_d6vtp2t

They seem to be within spec, reviews were good and 5 pieces for $1.20 so I got them.

I also ended up getting a USB-C male and female breakout board pair:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_dTNWDlJ
Im thinking I may use this for connecting to the dock. It should have enough pins for power, video and each controller data line. For audio switching I need to get an amp with a 5 pin jack I believe.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Alright, so today I performed my trim. It went pretty smoothly but my dremel slipped ever so slightly on one cut (see bottom left of the board) and I exposed some copper on the board, luckily it didn't hit any traces (although it came pretty close) and it shouldn't cause any problems from what I can tell. I sanded the edges with my dremel a bit and Im going to do another pass with finer grip sand paper to make it smooth.

Here's the trim:
20200303_112552.jpg
Inked20200303_112940_LI.jpg


Now I have some questions. I drew on the bottom board image where I think the 3.3V traces need to be put, I just want some confirmation before doing this. I simply scrape some of the green surface off the board and solder on some wire to supply 3.3V to the required areas of the board correct? As for the PIF 2K resistor on pin 8, where should I put the other lead of the resistor? I know it can go to C141 for the 3.3V, but I think there should be a closer point to the PIF to put it right?
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 14, 2018
Messages
36
Likes
14
For the 2k resistor I believe that one of the pins on the U15 chip works. I think it is pin 4 or 5. I haven’t touched my trim in a while but that’s what I remember.
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
Yea, but you should also put another wire towards the right trace because you cut off the 3.3v trace there
And you can wire the 2k resistor to itself
Place the resistor at the top portion of the pif chip, and the first pin on the top right is a 3.3v pin I saw bungle do that and saw it was the best way of wiring it since it didn't need any additional wires and it sits there comfortably
received_1884814751664260.jpeg
heres an example of what I mean. I believe the pin underneath it is the reset button.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Yea, but you should also put another wire towards the right trace because you cut off the 3.3v trace there
And you can wire the 2k resistor to itself
Place the resistor at the top portion of the pif chip, and the first pin on the top right is a 3.3v pin I saw bungle do that and saw it was the best way of wiring it since it didn't need any additional wires and it sits there comfortably View attachment 10753heres an example of what I mean. I believe the pin underneath it is the reset button.
cool thanks. Looks like the 2k resistor over there is a 1/2 watt, I only have 1/4 handy, think it will work just as well?
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
cool thanks. Looks like the 2k resistor over there is a 1/2 watt, I only have 1/4 handy, think it will work just as well?
Yea I think the watts determines how long itll last, but for this it's no problem.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Resistor on PIF done:
20200303_171153.jpg


Now I need to figure out the rest of the wiring. I'm only just realizing I'll need a way to provide my board 3.3V since the red board I ordered for the batteries will be delivering 7.4V. Is the guide at https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-get-3-3v-for-your-n64p.53/ still relevant or are there better ways to grab 3.3V? I've had a look around the forums but can't find much on the matter.

Additionally I guess I should wire up some temporary cables to test the console. I can't find any documentation about getting video and audio out for Rev 5 boards, except for the guide which just says to follow the traces along the board. I found this in another thread:
Chip Right Left C pins.png

Anyone know if this is the best place to grab my video and audio?
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
Those ti regs are good for n64s so you could just go with one of those.

And the video works fine just add the capacitor back on if you don't want it washed out, i remember ss said he once had issues with those pins for Audio (they weren't very loud, but I don't recall having ever having problems during testing, might depend on the amp or if its wired to the port)
Someone would have to back me up on this because I'm not 100% sure how he said it goes, but I think those pins right underneath 17 (the ones with the traces going towards the right) work better for audio, the left one is left audio and the right one is for right audio. I think he says it's due to the caps behind those pins on the back of the board. I'd assume it's ok to test this because audio shouldn't be able to fry/short the board? Maybe Noah or Gman could verify this.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Those ti regs are good for n64s so you could just go with one of those.

And the video works fine just add the capacitor back on if you don't want it washed out, i remember ss said he once had issues with those pins for Audio (they weren't very loud, but I don't recall having ever having problems during testing, might depend on the amp or if its wired to the port)
Someone would have to back me up on this because I'm not 100% sure how he said it goes, but I think those pins right underneath 17 (the ones with the traces going towards the right) work better for audio, the left one is left audio and the right one is for right audio. I think he says it's due to the caps behind those pins on the back of the board. I'd assume it's ok to test this because audio shouldn't be able to fry/short the board? Maybe Noah or Gman could verify this.
What do you mean by put back on the capacitor? Is it C15 which I had to take off for the trim?

And as for audio boards, I came across something interesting: https://www.banggood.com/5V-PAM8403...me-Adjustable-p-1414302.html?cur_warehouse=CN

The board uses a PAM8403 chip and includes a wheel for adjusting volume. The screw terminals are bulky but can easily be removed and the wires can be soldered directly to the board. I found it available locally for 5$ so I may pick one up and start fiddling with it. Not sure how I'll do the switching audio yet, I know I need a 5 contact headphone jack like this one: https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/SJ-3503-SMT-TR/CP-3503SJCT-ND/2638985/?itemSeq=319825583 since it has the following schematic:
Capture.PNG

Pins 4 and 5 go to the speakers, 2 and 3 to the headphone jack and 1 is ground. Thing is from seeing what others have done, I think I need to run another amp in series so I don't blow out the speakers. I think maybe putting a voltage divider between the audio jack pins and the amp would lower the volume since with less voltage I'd have less power....
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
I dont know off the top of my head, but it's the capacitor that leads to the video line on the chip, it's one of the large ones for sure. And you could look into building the one jacksonS made
It uses tact switches, although you need a programmer, but its said that theres a guide for doing so.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Got a spare Arduino lying around. I've seen the JacksonS board but I'm on the fence about going for it.
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
For audio I went with this LM4863. I removed the pink headphone jack and replaced it with a less bulky black one, and the large caps are extended off the board with wires. I removed all the plastic bits also, to solder direct to the board.

 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
Ah okay, I haven't seen that board yet. Any reason you extended the caps off the board?
When I was going to have the headphone jack on the top of the case there would have been no room for them vertically. Now I have moved it to the bottom the repositioning may not have been required.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
ah okay, cool. I'll look into maybe getting a board such as those, seems like a solid solution.
Also @Booshman I had a question, for your trim did you reconnect the 3.3v traces on the bottom of the board? I think I'm going to work on some more wiring today but I want to be sure I have my stuff right before I do. I guess I just scrape off some of the board and expose the copper and solder on wire?
 
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Messages
150
Likes
129
ah okay, cool. I'll look into maybe getting a board such as those, seems like a solid solution.
Also @Booshman I had a question, for your trim did you reconnect the 3.3v traces on the bottom of the board? I think I'm going to work on some more wiring today but I want to be sure I have my stuff right before I do. I guess I just scrape off some of the board and expose the copper and solder on wire?
I only got as far as a basic trim and battery connection before my first board died. As yet I haven't trimmed my second one. I'm still working on the case.
 
Joined
Aug 2, 2016
Messages
291
Likes
140
Yes if you're wiring those traces under the board expose the copper. Try to remove as little of the surface as possible so you keep things clean. I've done the three traces with one wire before.
You can remove the wire insulation in the middle of the wire if you want to make things as clean as possible. I'm not sure if the traces are connected to the capacitors on the top of the board since those run at 3.3v too. I think wiring those up would look better, but at the end it doesnt make a difference.
 
Joined
Feb 12, 2020
Messages
73
Likes
106
Location
Canada
Yes if you're wiring those traces under the board expose the copper. Try to remove as little of the surface as possible so you keep things clean. I've done the three traces with one wire before.
You can remove the wire insulation in the middle of the wire if you want to make things as clean as possible. I'm not sure if the traces are connected to the capacitors on the top of the board since those run at 3.3v too. I think wiring those up would look better, but at the end it doesnt make a difference.
Yeah I'm not sure either, it would be nice to be able to just connect everything via the top of the board but I haven't seen much of that.

EDIT: On a side note, my local electronics store carries these DC-DC step down regulator boards which convert to 3.3V: https://abra-electronics.com/voltage-regulator-modules/dc-dc-step-down-converters/psm-301.html

https://abra-electronics.com/voltag...car-charging-step-down-3.3v-power-module.html

Thoughts? Im swinging by there later today, they're only around $3 so I may pick one up just in case. The second one can deal with up to 3A max, which is similar to the PTH08080WAS which does 2.25A
 
Last edited:
Top