Worklog (finished) Swiitch 2.0 - BocuD's second Wii Portable

BocuD

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Update: The Swiitch 2.0 is now completed!
IMG_2203.JPG

More pics here

Original post:
Hi, this will be the worklog for my second Wii portable. I really want to make this one without hot glue. It will (probably) feature:
  • A 5" (touch)screen
  • New 3DS sliders and buttons
  • Custom lipo's, around 5500mah
  • Fully 3D modeled parts and designed completely on the computer to make use of the space more efficiently then the Swiitch
  • Remaining charge indicator
  • Will directly boot into system menu, with a postloader channel
maybe: A dock, with HDMI, GC memory cards and controller ports. USB.

I have already finished 3D models for the ABXY buttons and 3DS sliders, and will trim my wii as soon as possible. The 3D models have been printed and fit inside a real 3DS.
 
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BocuD

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Been a long time since I updated this lol. Anyways, I trimmed my wii and it actually worked the first time!
Here are some pics of the trim and regs:
IMG_0261.JPG
It booted right up once I had my regs working, which was really nice since on my previous portable I trimmed 5 boards before getting one to work. The new soldering iron really helped :D
FullSizeRender.jpg

I definitely want to try to relocate the nand, because it would save a lot of space. Since I bought 3 Wiis because I didn't expect the first trim to work this wouldn't be a problem anyways. I have been working on a really thin cooling setup so my portable won't be much thicker then a switch, compared to my previous one which was about thick a a 3ds and a dsi stacked on top of each other. I'll post some updates on the case design later, since I'm still waiting on my display. Once I get that I can finally start building!
 
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Stitches

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it actually worked the first time!
You forgot to mention the part where you wired your power supply to the regulator output and wired the input to the Wii and were surprised it didn't boot.
 

BocuD

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You forgot to mention the part where you wired your power supply to the regulator output and wired the input to the Wii and were surprised it didn't boot.
yeah I said once I got my regs working lol
 
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BocuD

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Welp, just recieved my screen. After some help from @GingerOfOz i was able to get it to work perfectly. I also got it to work from 3.3v, so if you have the same driver board as me then heres how to 3.3v "mod" it.
The driver board is really common, so heres a picture to check if yours is the same:
IMG_0307.JPG

IMG_0309.JPG
 

BocuD

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So, I was trimming my display driver board yesterday but kinda fcked it up. When I turn it on now it defaults to the AV2 video setting, and doesn't remember hdmi anymore. Also, it randomly switches inputs now. I could probably fix it if I wanted, but am going to order a new one for now, since they aren't that expensive. This was my dead driver board:
image-2.jpg

Anyways, I did make some progress on my case. All of the controller parts are now 3d modeled and they fit inside of my test prints. This is how they look:
Screen Shot 2017-11-28 at 13.46.52.png

At this point im just going to try to actually make my case look good, and fix my driver board..
 

BocuD

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Edit: Look in the post under this one, since thats probably what you're looking for

The LCD controller board sadly isn't for sale separately, so you would have to buy the entire unit at once. If I was you I would just buy an entire L7009 from DX: http://www.dx.com/nl/p/l7009-7-0-tf...monitor-w-vga-bnc-av-input-stand-black-335866
Or use another display with a Wii2HDMI. Honestly I can barely notice a difference between component on the L7009 and a (good) WIi2HDMI on a 5" display.
Can you give a link to LCD controller board plz?
Oh crap you I thought you meant the L7009 controller board.. Welp, too bad I read your question incorrectly! Anyways, the LCD controller board is for sale right here: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB800099-...693998&hash=item238d70d10c:g:qIAAAOSwqfNXkZOo
Edit: merged posts to clean up
 
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BocuD

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Made some more progress over the last few days. A friend of mine had an exact copy of my lcd driver board so i prdeed a new one for him and asked him if i could have his. There was a problem when i plugged it in though, the colors were all fcked up. So i asked for help in de BitBuilt discord and @Aurelio basically fixed it for me. It turned out that the firmware on the original driver board was different then the firmware on the new board. So i desoldered the original firmware chip and resoldered it where the firmware chip was located on the new driver. (after removing the old one!)
At this point my new driver board was working perfectly, so basically he saved me 3 weeks of time. Which is amazing.
I'm now working on some test prints and my case model, which is coming along really nicely. I'll add some pics later. Once my batteries, protection board, gc+, fans, heatsinks and amplifier arrive i can start actually building.
Pics coming later

Edit:
This is what my LCD looked like with the new unmoved driver:
After that I removed both chips, so I could resolder them on after that:
image-3.jpg

Then it magically worked! This is how it looks with my switch attached to it: (very minor mario odyssey spoilers!)
 
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BocuD

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Jeez i haven’t updated this in a while. Basically i started designing a new driver board for my display. I have been designing it in a way that the only thing you need to do with your display to get it working with this new driver is transfer the firmware chip, which shouldnt be that hard. (I did it without flux so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯) The main goal is to make a way smaller version of the original driver board so its usefull in portables. Heres a screenshot of the current state of the project:
C17E124E-C82D-4E36-AB74-9C1611A89A90.png

The HDMI connector on the bottom will only be there for testing purposes, the final version will just have test pads to solder to. Right now i implemented:
-HDMI in
-RGBHV in
-Flash chip with firmware on it
-1.8v reg
-40 pin TTL output (i know most 7” screens are 50 pins, so itll only work with those with an adaptor)
-Clock crystal
What i still need to do:
-not do a mega and add caps
-menu buttons pull ups
-menu button test pads
-led backlight power regulation
-resistors on ttl output
-get a better iron (damn i want an 888d) so i can actually assemble this thing
-change the package type for some parts (eg those giant resistors)

Also, my wii died on me while trying to relocate the nand... If i just didnt knock off those resistors under the gpu...
I guess ill use it for parts someday. For now ill put it in my box of (dead?) old wiis. Im working on a DD relocation as well but didnt get it to work yet. I think ill take a break with this untill after christmas. Maybe ill get something usefull (hopefully moar wiis) :Pigmas:
 

BocuD

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Damn I haven't updated this in way too long. To begin, I made massive amounts of progress on my LCD driver project. It now looks like this:
Screen Shot 2018-03-05 at 02.57.26.png

Basically everything and a bunch of (maybe) not entirely necessary stuff has been implemented. I definitely wouldn't have been able to make this without @JacksonS help.
Aside from that, @Stitches found the eyoyo LCD, and because of that the main focus is not HDMI anymore but rather YPbPr, and instead of supporting the PCB800099 board and its firmwares, I'm changing some stuff (eg. osd control circuitry) to account for the eyoyo firmware running on this thing. It may look kinda messy right now, which is because Im still not done with it yet. Outside of adding in the YPbPr stuff and different OSD control stuff, I added an Arduino (bottom middle) to control the backlight brightness. Read this thread to find out how. I know, I could've used an ATTiny instead of this, but this gives me the option to use it for more stuff (since it has lots of IO). The only thing I still need to do on this board is fix the silkscreen and maybe optimise some trace thicknesses and spacing.

Asside from the screen driver, I decided that I want to do something stupid. I want to do an LMAO trim for this portable. Which requires a NAND bend or NAND relocation (LMAOv2). Believe me, this is incredibly hard and stupid to do, so don't try it. Its like bluetooth and U10 but 2 times harder and you need to do 10 or 21 wires, depending on if you do the full relocation. So, I decided to make my life a little easier (or I thought so) and made a little board to help me. This is what it became:
Screen Shot 2018-03-05 at 03.07.50.png

The board allowed me to first remove the nand from the wii, and then solder it to this board so that I don't have to solder to the individual nand pins, which are very fragile.
So I tried, and soldered, and killed, and tried more, and revived, and killed, and soldered more... I ended up definitively killing at least 3 wiis and making 2 wiis very hard to fix (im still working on them). @Nold was able to successfully pull off a LMAO trim in the same amount of time, so once I get the wiis I ordered a while ago (probably tommorow) he will try it for me on those, which I am very grateful for. I attached some pics of my failed attempts at nand relocations. Yesterday was the best one yet, which ironically was without the custom board I made. On that one the 1.8v line shorted out after I probably fckd something up, so I just said "fuck it" and trimmed the board. This is that trim:
IMG_1205 3.JPG

Everything went well on this one. The rewiring was great, no shorts and strong connections. Then the 1.8v short disappeared after trimming, so I hooked an ldo from another wii up to it to test, and the last thing that could go wrong went terribly wrong. I just had to solder the 3.3v input pin on the nand to a 3.3v spot. Too bad the connection between the wire I used and the pin was so great; while bending the wire the pin snapped off of the nand. At that point I was done. I had invested about 30 hours into trying to get a working lmao trim; without any succes. I did make a lot of progress however, and maybe after a few more attempts I will be able to do it. So I went looking for wiis... I found this on the dutch version of craigslist, a guy offering 4 wiis for 5euros a pop, one of which was a family edition (confirmed 4 layer).
3ccc6f2e-9f4d-473f-b4df-51fdaef8350d.JPG
I had to buy it, so I just bought it and well, shit. To begin, the bottom wii, the "confirmed family edition's" board was replaced. It had a rev 01 in it. Besides, he was selling these for 5euros a piece for good reason. None of them had the DD internally connected, they were all missing screws, (the bottom one had no screws in it at all) and they all had their problems. (aside from not being able to read discs. Also, even though I had a pretty good chance of finding a rev 40 or higher, they were all rev 01s. Oh well. Lets hope for the best on the other wiis I ordered that will probably come in the mail by tomorrow.
From now on I hope ill update this more often, so I won't be typing for half an hour straight updating my worklog lol. Anyways, im still making a lot of progress on this project and I can't wait to see it finished since I literally didn't play for a single hour on my last one, as its been constantly broken due to bad design ;-;
 

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BocuD

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March 9th 2018
So.. Let's just say I made some "progress". I've been designing the case in sketchup now and have been making progress for about 4 months. HOWEVER, sketchup sucks and after all of the problems I had with It I was just like fuck it and started over in Fusion 360. All I can say is wow im surprised by how nice it actually is. Too bad I didn't switch earlier. This is a screenshot of the last revision of my case before I moved to fusion 360:
View attachment 5484
View attachment 5485
And this is the current state in fusion 360:
View attachment 5486
View attachment 5487
I definetly lost a lot of progress (especially on those 3ds button and slider mounting pieces damnit) but working in fusion 360 is already about 3/4 of the speed for me in comparison to sketchup, and I've only spent about 5 hours working on my case in it at this point, so the speed of modelling will probably be much faster in the end (especially since I don't have those stupid glitches from sketchup anymore). Besides, I actually got an LMAO trim to boot and work!
View attachment 5488
I couldn't believe it, and then fucked up. Basically it comes down to the fact that:
1. I wanted to do everything faster then I could, and sliced some traces that had to be relocated afterwards..
2. I was using too thick wires, so I was soldering to the vias instead of into them, which made the connections much more fragile then they needed to be.
3. I didn't clean my board after every step. Literally. I had been trying to get the thing working for over an hour, and then I was like, sure, ill clean it before I give up, it looks nasty. After that it worked. So I glued it down, and some wires came loose or something, idk, but now its not working anymore. Anyways, Nold sent me a Wii with a working NAND bend (done by him) so im sure I can get that one working just fine, as the problem has been the NAND bend the entire time.
I also made some new custom PCB's to support everything electrically and make the wiring less messy, but I haven't finished those yet.
Update: May 8th 2018
Damn I haven't updated this in way too long.
hmm...
Hey at least I got new cad pics
Screen Shot 2018-05-08 at 10.15.53.png
Screen Shot 2018-05-08 at 10.18.47.png
Screen Shot 2018-05-08 at 10.16.49.png

I've not worked on this for a month now and kinda forgot to post them. Oh well. 50% of the original sketchup thing is now modeled in Fusion 360, which is at least some progress. I don't think it'll be done in time but I also want to make this my contest entry. I made some progress on my PCBs as well but those were almost done already anyways, so I havent added pics of those. Once I get more time to finish those I'll send them to a fab and post pics of them when they're finished.
 
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BocuD

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After nearly destroying another wii today trying lmao on it, I decided to try to change my design. My batteries never arrived so I decided to look for different ones with a higher capacity. The new batteries I found are a bit wider and longer (about 1.5mm thinner then the previous ones). These fit better in my case and give me more space for other components, as there is less of a gap between the batteries and the side of the case. It also adds a lot of space below the batteries. The regulators are moved to the right side of the case (above the wii) to give the batteries more room, which together with a thinner battery setup is just the edge I need to fit the wii motherboard without a NAND bend. I think trying to do this earlier as basically everyone in the discord already tried to tell me 4 months ago.. oh well ¯\_(ツ)_/¯. This is what the layout will look like (no screw posts and brackets yet because of redesign)
The front of the case didn't change, nor did the form factor. I'm actually really surprised that just searching for different parts made it possible to use a semi normal OMGWTF trim in this portable.
Screenshot 2018-06-19 at 00.12.13.png

The inside did definitely change, however. As you can probably see the batteries are now a humongous part of the case, in surface area at least. The batteries are the same exact capacity however. The larger surface area made them much thinner (almost 3mm). The surface area wasn't really used in the current design anyways, but the thinner batteries create extra room under them. One of the advantages of that is that the nand now fits between the batteries and the display driver / lcd, with around 1 mm of spare room. This should make the final case around 22mm thicc, which is pretty close to what I originally wanted. The extra height beneath the batteries also give me space to put a certain red board which makes charge and play MUCH easier. I originally wanted to design my own pcb for this, which would've been much smaller, but this is so much easier.. For now I'll only be using custom pcbs for io and button mounting.
Screenshot 2018-06-19 at 00.11.19.png

With the contest ending in less then two months I'll be surprised if I finish this in time... I certainly hope so. I'll just go back to CAD for now.
 

BocuD

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I just did a test print/fit with all of the parts except for the regs/custom pcbs. The fact that everything fits this well is a suprise to be sure, but a welcome one. This isnt the final case, but here are pics anyways:
0AA7F934-D207-4FC8-BF34-A848B339AA40.jpeg

The final case will be white, to resemble the white new 3ds with those snes style buttons.
12A600A5-EE7A-41AD-B2DF-190209C53CCE.jpeg

The build now “features” an OMGWhyTF trim, which is basically lmao but without doing the nand bend. This is a very rough cut (not even sanded) and done very hastily and i slipped a few times while trimming. I don’t really care though as it was just done to get an idea of the shape and this was a dead board anyways.
image.jpg
 
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