Solved Finished my Ashida build with some issues; left joycon x-axis swap, paired together controllers, and current draw.

[Xyzven]

So I finally finished my Ashida build after I borked my PMS-Lite when I shorted some wires from the screen. I ended up getting a PMS-2 and rewired and thought my problems were over but I have a few stragglers:

1. My left stick controller was swapped on the X-Axis. I tried to see if anyone else had this in the forums but people put very generic statements that it's hard to sift through the issues. I apologize if this was discussed before. At first I thought I had mixed wires till I realized the controller stick is solders straight to the board so it's not like it could be me crossing wires. Is it possible I have bad controller stick?

2. In my effort to try and find a fix myself for the above item, I ended up getting my C-stick and left stick paired together into one. Now I cannot unpair them and am stuck. Is there a means to fix this? I looked for any files created and even went as far as to install RVLoader 1.6 again to no avail.

3. I also noticed my amp draw is really high 2.4 amps and I just wanted to confirm this is not atypical. I have the MX relocated (with battery backup) and bluetooth as well. I was wondering if my initial borking of my PMS-Lite caused something else to bork on the board. I checked for resistance again but it seems within specs. Would just like some ideas of where to look for the heavy draw.

EDIT:
With regards to item 1, I have got into the SAFE MENU in RVLoader but everytime I "reset the joysticks" it hangs. I can't seem to undo this problem.

 

[Stitches]

I believe that draw is normal. 2.4A draw at ~3.7V is just under 9 watts of power consumption, which is within the bounds of a normal portable setup I think.

No idea about the sticks sadly.

 

[Xyzven]

I believe that draw is normal. 2.4A draw at ~3.7V is just under 9 watts of power consumption, which is within the bounds of a normal portable setup I think.

No idea about the sticks sadly.

Thanks for that confirm. I wasn’t sure if I had borked my board with the previous mishap of my own doing. Hopefully someone will be able to assist with the controllers as I feel that going to discord loses that historical capture that the forums do nicely.

 

[Xyzven]

Ok,

So I was talking to an electronic buddy and he mentioned that if the x-axis is backwards, to check my polarity and verify that I have the board wired correctly. So at least #1 is most likely a me issue.

I still don't know how to unpair the two controllers acting as one. Even the SAFE MENU in RVLoader crashes when I try to "Reset GC+ Sticks". Any ideas?

 

[Stitches]

I'm not sure, this is a strange problem. We'd need to see clear photos of your wiring to do more than speculate

 

[Xyzven]

I'm not sure, this is a strange problem. We'd need to see clear photos of your wiring to do more than speculate

Thanks Stitches... give me a bit. Travelling for work and will be back in a bit. Appreciate the offer of help reviewing. I'll try and get a video as well.

 

[Xyzven]

So I finally finished my Ashida build after I borked my PMS-Lite when I shorted some wires from the screen. I ended up getting a PMS-2 and rewired and thought my problems were over but I have a few stragglers:

1. My left stick controller was swapped on the X-Axis. I tried to see if anyone else had this in the forums but people put very generic statements that it's hard to sift through the issues. I apologize if this was discussed before. At first I thought I had mixed wires till I realized the controller stick is solders straight to the board so it's not like it could be me crossing wires. Is it possible I have bad controller stick?

2. In my effort to try and find a fix myself for the above item, I ended up getting my C-stick and left stick paired together into one. Now I cannot unpair them and am stuck. Is there a means to fix this? I looked for any files created and even went as far as to install RVLoader 1.6 again to no avail.

3. I also noticed my amp draw is really high 2.4 amps and I just wanted to confirm this is not atypical. I have the MX relocated (with battery backup) and bluetooth as well. I was wondering if my initial borking of my PMS-Lite caused something else to bork on the board. I checked for resistance again but it seems within specs. Would just like some ideas of where to look for the heavy draw.

EDIT:
With regards to item 1, I have got into the SAFE MENU in RVLoader but everytime I "reset the joysticks" it hangs. I can't seem to undo this problem.

So Item 1 is a ID10T error (aka me). I had the L+ and L- swapped and soldered incorrectly on the LCD side. I have since fixed it.

Item 2 still has my flumoxed: See attached photo. I now have not only the left joystick paired with the C joystick, but now the axis are gone wonky and I can't get into the safe menu. Image is of me holding the controller "down" to show both joystick and C are shown "registering" input together.

 

[RobotJack12]

First remove the batteries from your unit. Then use your multimeter to test for continuity between CX and SX. Also test CY and XY. If there is no continuity between the two axis then great. But if there is, then there must be a soldering joint bridged somewhere on your Ashida PCB.
Also make sure that the GND pad is not grounded to the 3.3v pad for the controllers sticks.

 

[Xyzven]

Off to work but will check it tonight.

 

[Xyzven]

First remove the batteries from your unit. Then use your multimeter to test for continuity between CX and SX. Also test CY and XY. If there is no continuity between the two axis then great. But if there is, then there must be a soldering joint bridged somewhere on your Ashida PCB.
Also make sure that the GND pad is not grounded to the 3.3v pad for the controllers sticks.

So checked SX back to the controller sticks and verified that SX does not bridge with CX or CY. Did the same for SY (at the controller point) so that I could check the whole circuit. Also checked that GND was not connected to 3.3V.

Just for some more context, I had both controllers separately working INITIALLY but accidentally moved both together when doing a calibration and accidentally "paired" them. I cannot "un-pair" them at this time. Going into SAFE MENU in RVLoader to use the "Reset GC+ Sticks" just hangs after it states "DONE". I am certain this is a software fring case where the ID10T user (aka me) did something that I shouldn't have and have glitched the software such that it cannot reset.

 

[RobotJack12]

You might need wire up a different controller to access safe mode to reset your system settings

 

[Xyzven]

I can access safe mode. All the other options work for me other than the “reset Gc+ sticks”. When I use that option, it says DONE and then freezes. I be left it on to see if it resolves itself but it doesn’t. If I power off and back on, it’s not done.

is there a way to manually delete the setup file or config file for the controllers (if there is even a file).

EDIT - I've also tried the X+Y+A on boot to reset the joysticks with no success.

 

[Xyzven]

WAIT!! IT WORKED!! X+Y+A repeatedly finally work and I got my joysticks back!! WOOT WOOT.

All issues resolved.

 

[RobotJack12]

I will add that to my trouble shooting guide. Great work Xyzven

 

[Xyzven]

I will add that to my trouble shooting guide. Great work Xyzven

Oh a troubleshoot FAQ! Brilliant. No thank you for creating one. That would be awesome for the community.