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Question "Failed to initialize FAT" error on First Ashida build

Joined
Aug 7, 2023
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The Problem:
I am building my first portable, Wesk's Ashida. When booting the system up I run into the "Failed to initialize FAT FS! Is an USB drive plugged in?" error. I could use some help getting past this.
PXL_20230808_173757874.jpg




Things I have tried:
1. Tightly twisting the data lines and making sure they are exactly the same length. I also shorted the wires to about as short as they will go.
PXL_20230808_210115472.jpg
PXL_20230808_210149698.jpg




2. Plugging the USB drive into another Wii with RVLoader installed. Worked great on the other Wii, it booted without issue.
PXL_20230808_211014294.jpg
PXL_20230808_211020460.jpg




3. Power cycling...
4. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D+ and Via 3 and the left side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
5. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D- and Via 2 and the right side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
USB Vias.png



6. Checked the voltage of the "UP" via(?) on the PMS-PD 2, it was 5v. (I did wire "UP" to the PMS's "UP" with 34awg wire which might be too small.)
7. (UPDATE) I just tried connecting the PMS-PD 2's D+ and D- to Vias 6 and 7 from the image above (thinking there could be an issue with vias 2 and 3) I had the same issue.
8 (UPDATE) Is there a way to test the PMS-PD 2 to make sure the data lines are connected to the USB port correctly? I tried testing continuity between the D+ pad -> USB D+ port and the D- pad to the USB D- port and had high resistance. I assume this is due to the data line going though an IC on the board.

USB Drive:
This is the USB Drive I am using: SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1
Which is vetted by GingerOfOz

So far I have:
The PMS powering: the battery (only using one while troubleshooting,) MoBo, screen, PMS-PD 2, and Ashida audio board. NOT POWERING: the Ashida controller board (TODO.)
The MoBo is connected to:
-PMS via 3.3v, 1.8v, 1.15v, 1v, GND(*2), and the U10 line.
-The screen via Component (will switch to VGA later.)
-The PMS-PD 2 via the USB vias mentioned above in #4 and #5.



This is my first time using BitBuit (or any form for that matter.) Please don't eat me alive. ; )



More pictures:
PXL_20230808_210122018.jpg
PXL_20230808_212324398.jpg
 

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Just wondering does the Wii in the ashida have 1.6 installed or potentially an earlier version? I could see having an earlier version of rvloader being installed and needing the reinstall to update with version 1.6 being a potential fix. 1.6 needed a full reinstall to update with the sandisk fixes if an earlier version was previously running
 
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I'm glad you asked, because I wasn't sure. Looking at my downloaded files on my PC, it looks like I downloaded RVLoader_v1.6.zip which means 1.6 should be installed. I this is the only version of RVLoader I have installed.

Also, I was able to run RVLoader without issues before trimming the board. If that helps with troubleshooting.
 
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Have you checked that d+ and d- are wired up correctly? I’ve done a couple builds where I mixed up the wires.
 
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I checked D+ and D- via a continuity test. Everything seems to be soldered correctly.

I just plugged the PMS-PD 2 into my computer with a data USB-C cable while the USB drive was plugged in. According to 4layertech.com it should pop up like a regular flash drive. But, nothing happened. I'm thinking my USB-PD 2 is defective. Any thoughts?
 

Stitches

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The Problem:
I am building my first portable, Wesk's Ashida. When booting the system up I run into the "Failed to initialize FAT FS! Is an USB drive plugged in?" error. I could use some help getting past this.
View attachment 29160



Things I have tried:
1. Tightly twisting the data lines and making sure they are exactly the same length. I also shorted the wires to about as short as they will go.
View attachment 29157 View attachment 29161



2. Plugging the USB drive into another Wii with RVLoader installed. Worked great on the other Wii, it booted without issue.
View attachment 29158View attachment 29159



3. Power cycling...
4. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D+ and Via 3 and the left side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
5. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D- and Via 2 and the right side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
View attachment 29156


6. Checked the voltage of the "UP" via(?) on the PMS-PD 2, it was 5v. (I did wire "UP" to the PMS's "UP" with 34awg wire which might be too small.)
7. (UPDATE) I just tried connecting the PMS-PD 2's D+ and D- to Vias 6 and 7 from the image above (thinking there could be an issue with vias 2 and 3) I had the same issue.
8 (UPDATE) Is there a way to test the PMS-PD 2 to make sure the data lines are connected to the USB port correctly? I tried testing continuity between the D+ pad -> USB D+ port and the D- pad to the USB D- port and had high resistance. I assume this is due to the data line going though an IC on the board.

USB Drive:
This is the USB Drive I am using: SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1
Which is vetted by GingerOfOz

So far I have:
The PMS powering: the battery (only using one while troubleshooting,) MoBo, screen, PMS-PD 2, and Ashida audio board. NOT POWERING: the Ashida controller board (TODO.)
The MoBo is connected to:
-PMS via 3.3v, 1.8v, 1.15v, 1v, GND(*2), and the U10 line.
-The screen via Component (will switch to VGA later.)
-The PMS-PD 2 via the USB vias mentioned above in #4 and #5.



This is my first time using BitBuit (or any form for that matter.) Please don't eat me alive. ; )



More pictures:
View attachment 29164View attachment 29165
34AWG is indeed too thin for any wire carrying power, and should only be used for data lines. You should use 28AWG stranded wire or thicker for UP/PW/3.3v, and 22AWG stranded wire for CHRG and GND.

Why PC data transfer isn't working for you I'm not sure, but the thin single core wire is definitely a failure point
 
Joined
May 31, 2023
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The Problem:
I am building my first portable, Wesk's Ashida. When booting the system up I run into the "Failed to initialize FAT FS! Is an USB drive plugged in?" error. I could use some help getting past this.
View attachment 29160



Things I have tried:
1. Tightly twisting the data lines and making sure they are exactly the same length. I also shorted the wires to about as short as they will go.
View attachment 29157 View attachment 29161



2. Plugging the USB drive into another Wii with RVLoader installed. Worked great on the other Wii, it booted without issue.
View attachment 29158View attachment 29159



3. Power cycling...
4. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D+ and Via 3 and the left side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
5. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D- and Via 2 and the right side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
View attachment 29156


6. Checked the voltage of the "UP" via(?) on the PMS-PD 2, it was 5v. (I did wire "UP" to the PMS's "UP" with 34awg wire which might be too small.)
7. (UPDATE) I just tried connecting the PMS-PD 2's D+ and D- to Vias 6 and 7 from the image above (thinking there could be an issue with vias 2 and 3) I had the same issue.
8 (UPDATE) Is there a way to test the PMS-PD 2 to make sure the data lines are connected to the USB port correctly? I tried testing continuity between the D+ pad -> USB D+ port and the D- pad to the USB D- port and had high resistance. I assume this is due to the data line going though an IC on the board.

USB Drive:
This is the USB Drive I am using: SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1
Which is vetted by GingerOfOz

So far I have:
The PMS powering: the battery (only using one while troubleshooting,) MoBo, screen, PMS-PD 2, and Ashida audio board. NOT POWERING: the Ashida controller board (TODO.)
The MoBo is connected to:
-PMS via 3.3v, 1.8v, 1.15v, 1v, GND(*2), and the U10 line.
-The screen via Component (will switch to VGA later.)
-The PMS-PD 2 via the USB vias mentioned above in #4 and #5.



This is my first time using BitBuit (or any form for that matter.) Please don't eat me alive. ; )



More pictures:
View attachment 29164View attachment 29165
The Problem:
I am building my first portable, Wesk's Ashida. When booting the system up I run into the "Failed to initialize FAT FS! Is an USB drive plugged in?" error. I could use some help getting past this.
View attachment 29160



Things I have tried:
1. Tightly twisting the data lines and making sure they are exactly the same length. I also shorted the wires to about as short as they will go.
View attachment 29157 View attachment 29161



2. Plugging the USB drive into another Wii with RVLoader installed. Worked great on the other Wii, it booted without issue.
View attachment 29158View attachment 29159



3. Power cycling...
4. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D+ and Via 3 and the left side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
5. Checked the continuity between the PMS-PD D- and Via 2 and the right side of the black component (I don't know the name, see image.)
View attachment 29156


6. Checked the voltage of the "UP" via(?) on the PMS-PD 2, it was 5v. (I did wire "UP" to the PMS's "UP" with 34awg wire which might be too small.)
7. (UPDATE) I just tried connecting the PMS-PD 2's D+ and D- to Vias 6 and 7 from the image above (thinking there could be an issue with vias 2 and 3) I had the same issue.
8 (UPDATE) Is there a way to test the PMS-PD 2 to make sure the data lines are connected to the USB port correctly? I tried testing continuity between the D+ pad -> USB D+ port and the D- pad to the USB D- port and had high resistance. I assume this is due to the data line going though an IC on the board.

USB Drive:
This is the USB Drive I am using: SanDisk 128GB Ultra Fit USB 3.1
Which is vetted by GingerOfOz

So far I have:
The PMS powering: the battery (only using one while troubleshooting,) MoBo, screen, PMS-PD 2, and Ashida audio board. NOT POWERING: the Ashida controller board (TODO.)
The MoBo is connected to:
-PMS via 3.3v, 1.8v, 1.15v, 1v, GND(*2), and the U10 line.
-The screen via Component (will switch to VGA later.)
-The PMS-PD 2 via the USB vias mentioned above in #4 and #5.



This is my first time using BitBuit (or any form for that matter.) Please don't eat me alive. ; )



More pictures:
View attachment 29164View attachment 29165
Had the exact same problem. I used an SD to USB adapter, took it apart and wired it correctly and it worked perfectly. This was after trying seven different usb drives. Give it a shot if you're still having trouble, worked great for me.
 

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34AWG is indeed too thin for any wire carrying power, and should only be used for data lines. You should use 28AWG stranded wire or thicker for UP/PW/3.3v, and 22AWG stranded wire for CHRG and GND.

Why PC data transfer isn't working for you I'm not sure, but the thin single core wire is definitely a failure point

Replacing the 34AWG from the PMS to the PMS-PD 2 (the UP and PW lines) with 22AWG fixed it! Thank you so much! I'm so excited!!

UPDATE: I also found that the USB-C cable to access the USB drive now works, but only with a 21700 battery connected. Trying without the battery resulted in a sound like the fan turning on and off every second for 0.1s. And the drive popping up and disappearing on my computer about once every 2 seconds.
 

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Stitches

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That makes sense, the PD still needs logic voltage from the PMS to work correctly even with 5v being supplied by the USB cable
 

Xyzven

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34AWG is indeed too thin for any wire carrying power, and should only be used for data lines. You should use 28AWG stranded wire or thicker for UP/PW/3.3v, and 22AWG stranded wire for CHRG and GND.

Why PC data transfer isn't working for you I'm not sure, but the thin single core wire is definitely a failure point
And THIS solved my issue too... didn't realize the PW was 5V...smh. Wish this stuff was documented better on the 4Layer site.
 

icy_system

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And THIS solved my issue too... didn't realize the PW was 5V...smh. Wish this stuff was documented better on the 4Layer site.
PW isn't quite 5v, it is just your battery voltage. The UP rail is 5v.
 

CrashBash

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And THIS solved my issue too... didn't realize the PW was 5V...smh. Wish this stuff was documented better on the 4Layer site.
@Shank Community feedback for ya
 

Shank

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Xyzven

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Sure but noting that it's a power rail does not clearly state it needs 28 AWG. I know you are not catering to the lowest common denominator but a little more detail would help eliminate these small niggles that I'm sure you deal with on a constant basis.

Just for the record, I am not trying to be critical (or diminish) of your work or the community's contributions.
 

Stitches

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Sure but noting that it's a power rail does not clearly state it needs 28 AWG. I know you are not catering to the lowest common denominator but a little more detail would help eliminate these small niggles that I'm sure you deal with on a constant basis.

Just for the record, I am not trying to be critical (or diminish) of your work or the community's contributions.
It's not mentioned on 4layertech due to the documentation being kept as to the point as possible, but it has been stated here on the forum quite regularly. It should be recorded somewhere central though, so I have ammend the Wii Trimming Guide's voltage section to add an explanation on using the correct wire for the correct purpose.
 
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