Question Do I need to purchase a new pcb set?
- Thread starter Sully_:0)
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Nope
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Thanks wesk, I’ll give it a go.
Another problem I just ran into is i think I butchered this mode via. These two red circles used to have continuity but now they don’t.
I think I know what I did wrong and how to do better on the other mode via— but will this be a problem that this one is damaged?
Another problem I just ran into is i think I butchered this mode via. These two red circles used to have continuity but now they don’t.
I think I know what I did wrong and how to do better on the other mode via— but will this be a problem that this one is damaged?
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You can use a small piece of kapton tape on either side of leg your soldering on to prevent shorting any pins.
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goated thank you. Any idea on the mode via I mentioned ?
Welp, that via has been ripped out. I don't know the structure of the MODE lines and whether that bit of destruction going to break stuff, but I'd recommend using this test pad instead. Also, when soldering to vias/data pins it's generally better to solder the wire to a nearby attached component. If you'd soldered the wire to the diode right next to the dead via, you probably would have been fine.
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Okay true idk why I chose what I did.. so I guess I should just continue with the build and if there are problems I can replace the board?
Do you know what those problems might look like? Like what does mode do
Yeah if you run into unfixable problems, replacing the Wii is usually the thing to do.
Mode is a signal line that tells the Wii's AVE chip what video format to output. With the VGA patch installed, MODE being left low (no 3.3v connected) tells the AVE to output interlaced composite video, and MODE brought high (3.3v connected) tells the AVE to output progressive scan VGA video. It can't do both at the same time, so MODE serves as the switch between them. Under normal circumstances, MODE is shorted to 3.3v by Component cables via an internal shunt. This tells the Wii to output Component video, but the VGA patch obviously changes that to VGA output, and since we aren't using the AV out port we have to short MODE to 3.3v ourselves to tell the AVE to output VGA progressive scan video.
If there is an issue with the MODE line, it will present itself as composite video working while VGA does not.
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That via is pretty far downstream, so it's fine that it's gone. Like Stitches said, solder to TP47, it's the easiest point. The yeeted via has a very low possibility of affecting anything.
Use the thinnest tip you have at around 400°C. Tin your magnet wire and then it pretty much just sticks to the pin. I also recommend to wire hsync from the side and vsync from the top so you don't accidently remove one while wiring the other one.
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Okay thank you, I was able to solder h and v sync!!! Although my next question is where do D+ and D- on the pms PD get wired to?
**edit**
and while I’m here , is there anything I should know before putting the batteries in? Like anything that could damage the boards? Getting close to testing time
**edit**
and while I’m here , is there anything I should know before putting the batteries in? Like anything that could damage the boards? Getting close to testing time
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They're wired to the USB data vias on the Wii. Check out Step 4 in Section 13 of the old G-Boy assembly manual for some helpful photos and an explanation of the process. I realise I probably should have directed you to the manual way earlier, it probably would have assisted you greatly in the early stages. My bad.
For the batteries, fortunately it's as simple as just slotting the cells into the holders with the correct orientation. I believe the PMS has some reverse polarity protection, so inserting the cells the wrong way shouldn't kill it, but definitely double check before putting the cells in just to be sure.
And remember: The PMS uses a 1S cell arrangement, so the cells must be connected in parallel rather than in series. This means both positive terminals should be connected to B+ on the PMS, and both negative terminals should be connected to B- on the PMS. If you connect the cells in series, the PMS will be hit with 7.4v and instantly killed. I know the diagram on the 4layertech site illustrates this pretty clearly, but the mistake has been made before so I figure I should make it clear now just in case.
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I totally forgot about the G-Boy assembly guide, thanks. Quick questions I have been using 34 AWG magnet wire for all of my magnet wire connections as this is all I have at the moment. Although I just noticed in the Gboy manual it says to use 30 AWG for composite.
Do I need to purchase some thicker magnet wire or will the 34 AWG suffice?
Do I need to purchase some thicker magnet wire or will the 34 AWG suffice?
You can use 34AWG no problems, some people have used 38AWG and it's been totally fine
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A couple questions - So first of all I see that the silver chips on the wii ( The CPUs?) I don't know what they are called lol but I attached a picture for clarity.Aren't touching the heat sinks. I see there is a small amount of space in between them, is that normal or should the heat sinks be touching those parts firmly?
Also I see that I will need to put the battery in before I screw the wii down. Am I able to do any soldering while a battery is inserted?
**that pictures are from the wii trimming guide and I do not have thermal paste
Thanks again yall
Also I see that I will need to put the battery in before I screw the wii down. Am I able to do any soldering while a battery is inserted?
**that pictures are from the wii trimming guide and I do not have thermal paste
Thanks again yall
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You need some form of thermal interface material, yes. If you jump on ebay/amazon and search for "thermal pad" you'll find a heap of options. I think the 2mm thick grey/blue ones should be fine for this. They're compressible so if it seems like the one you got is a little too thick, don't worry about it it'll just squish. They can also just be cut to size with scissors or a razor blade. Here's an example of a listing for the pads: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07X38254H/
When you say "battery" are you talking about the 3v RTC coin cell, or the 21700 li-ion cells? If you mean the li-ion cells, no. Do not solder anything while they are connected to the system. If you must do any soldering work, remove the li-ion cells first, and then turn the power switch to On for a few seconds to clear any residual capacitance. Even when the PMS is "off", when the li-ion cells are connected there is still a tiny amount of idle current flowing through the system that could cause damage. It's the same principle as working on any normal console or swapping PC parts. You must always disconnect all sources of power (minus the RTC coin cell) and bleed the system of residual capacitance by holding the power switch On for a bit. Otherwise you're almost certain to kill something.
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Alright I’m about to turn this bad boy on - I know which wires need to go to the watch battery but I’m not sure where. Where does positive and negative go on this battery?
**edit** is it just top and bottom?At first I wasn’t getting a reading on my multi meter but I was messing around with it and I think it may just be top positive and bottom negative
**edit** is it just top and bottom?At first I wasn’t getting a reading on my multi meter but I was messing around with it and I think it may just be top positive and bottom negative
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The face with the big + imprinted on it is the positive terminal, and the smaller isolated face with the textured bumps is the negative terminal
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Allllright so I put in 1 battery and turned on the device and nothing happened. What are some things I should start troubleshooting?
My soldering jobs got much better halfway through the build where I am pretty confident now but not all of them are all that great. I made sure all of them had continuity and no shorts tho
edit ** is it possible that only one battery wouldn’t turn it on? Or maybe the battery needs to be charged? Doesn’t seem likely but worth asking
My soldering jobs got much better halfway through the build where I am pretty confident now but not all of them are all that great. I made sure all of them had continuity and no shorts tho
edit ** is it possible that only one battery wouldn’t turn it on? Or maybe the battery needs to be charged? Doesn’t seem likely but worth asking
What voltage is the battery sitting at? It might be too low for the PMS to engage, and need some charging
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