Worklog CrazyGadget's N64 Portable (Name TBD)

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I've been doing Wii portables for quite some time now, and I've been starting to feel the monotony of the builds crushing my soul. I've been wanting to branch out into other consoles for quite some time now, but so many other projects have taken priority.... until now! This first post spans over the course of a couple days, leading up to a few hours ago...

DAY ONE

In between commissions, I've started to go down the N64 rabbit hole - reading through the advanced trimming guide and getting to understand all of the relocations and critical points on the N64. I've read through many worklogs (especially @SparkleBear's First N64p thread) and got super hyped up to try something myself. I bought a bunch of N64s with expansion paks, and one night I just went for it and did an advanced trim:

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DAY TWO

In my portable-to-be, I wanted to swap the RAM for two 4mb chips as many have done. I also wanted to try my hand at the "Akira method" for RAM termination. In my craving to have a trimmed N64 in my hands, I failed to use my head and do these relocations before trimming. By not validating either of these relocations prior to trimming, I was potentially setting myself up for a big headache down the road if something didn't work correctly.

All that being said and understood, I got to work yesterday to start the relocation process. I have to start by thanking @YveltalGriffin for answering my many questions throughout the Akira method process. Equipped with a good understanding of what I need to do, I pulled the 2mb RAM chips from the board and cut out the RAM termination pins to expose the bare FR4:

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From there, I just followed the pictures Akira posted, and after about an hour and a half or so later, it was done!

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Yveltal was right: it's really not as scary as it's made out to be. After checking all my connections with my DMM to make sure all the pins had the right resistances to ground and none of them were shorted together, I added the 4mb RAM chips from two expansion paks:

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DAY THREE (current day)

I did a lot of studying for the PIF relocation and used my DMM to trace a lot of the relocation points and where else these signals ran around the board. Luckily, with the trim that I did, I preserved the majority of the left set of pins on the original PIF footprint, making for a cleaner relocation. I didn't want to to wire anything directly back to the cartridge slot, so I traced pins 7 and 24 (23) back and found a nice place to scratch the traces and solder the wires there. The only long wires I had to run were for pins 7 and 25 going to CPU. Looks ugly IMO, but it will have to do! I also jumped all the 3v3 points on the back of the board with a few short wires so, from the front of the board, it looks pretty barren.

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Checking for continuity in all the right spots, I was pretty confident that this relocation would work. Trucking ahead, it was time to relocate the cartridge slot. After snipping and tinning 46 wires, I wired everything from the N64 to the cartridge slot:

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Stuck a cart in, gave it power and....... nothing! I probed around looking for issues and then it dawned on me: I wired the cart slot the wrong way, swapping the top and bottom row. It's crazy how desoldering all those wires was so much faster than soldering them! Anyway, I redid all the wiring with the correct orientation, but it still didn't work. When doing the PIF relocation and tracing back points, I found that the relocation point(s) for pin 8 did not have a direct connection with the original pin 8 pad. Rather, there was a 50k resistor between the two. I kept that in the back of my mind, and I figured if relocating back to the original pad didn't work, I could jump 2 points and bypass the resistor. If anyone knows why this is the case, drop some info bombs here! After jumping those points, bam!

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Just for tickles, I also hooked it up to everyone's favorite 5" 4:3 screen:

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FUTURE PLANS
  • Power Management TBD
  • 64-Amp for audio
  • Custom controller board with uC for joystick conversion (with the help of @Gman)
  • Chop off the cart slot and make use of Yveltal's RCP-Cart Slot flex PCB
  • This will be my first project designing my own case, so that's going to be fun
  • Not sure if this will have 2 or 4 18650s; I want to get more progress done on the fundamentals before I go into cramming it in a case.
Let's hope I can stay on this project longer than the other ones I've made worklogs for...
 

Shank

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Looking great so far. Is there any technical reason why nobody has made a small rambus termination flex pcb? I've been wondering about a Terminator 64 for years.
 
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Looking great so far. Is there any technical reason why nobody has made a small rambus termination flex pcb? I've been wondering about a Terminator 64 for years.
Maybe I should do that as a little side project; I've never made a flex PCB before!

Made a little progress today. I've had a ton of blank 64AMPs on hand for a while now, I ordered the parts a couple weeks ago and put two together tonight. I did a bit of a slop job with the stencil (I can hear Gunnar pointing out all the bleeding) and I had my air speed up too high with the first one and had to rework all of the passives, but such is life. Hot aired everything, reworked with my iron, cleaned them up and programmed them.

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In the same vein as the Terminator 64 and Yveltal's RCP-Cart Slot flex, I want to do my own spin of an RCP flex. The flex will solder to the RCP and go to an FFC connector; a regular PCB will have a receiving FFC connector and connect to the cart slot. I'll also be taking a page out of Gunnar's book (again) with using a replacement 50 pin cart slot (dirt cheap and easy to get). I figure that using FFC connectors will allow me to use an FFC length appropriate to whatever build it's going in, as opposed to being locked into a set length with a single, long flex.

Hopefully I can make time this week to read up and study all the cart slot connections, as well as how to make a flex PCB for this application. One step at a time!
 
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Wow, amazing work! Reminds me that I need to get back into my 64 portable.
 
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In the same vein as the Terminator 64 and Yveltal's RCP-Cart Slot flex, I want to do my own spin of an RCP flex. The flex will solder to the RCP and go to an FFC connector; a regular PCB will have a receiving FFC connector and connect to the cart slot. I'll also be taking a page out of Gunnar's book (again) with using a replacement 50 pin cart slot (dirt cheap and easy to get). I figure that using FFC connectors will allow me to use an FFC length appropriate to whatever build it's going in, as opposed to being locked into a set length with a single, long flex.

Hopefully I can make time this week to read up and study all the cart slot connections, as well as how to make a flex PCB for this application. One step at a time!


After making the flex, I made the receiving end Cart-FFC board... but then I realized that, with the way everything was oriented, the cart (and label) would be facing inward (towards the portable) with my current idea of how this is all going together... I can't just move the FFC to the other side, since that messes up how everything gets routed nicely... In the end, I put it on the other side, flipped it to the back of the board, and then utilized an overkill of 4 layers to have somewhat-not-butt-ugly traces...

Cart slot facing the wrong way:



Cart slot facing the right way:



I eyeballed the overall dimensions of this board, as I do not have any kind of 3D modeling for the case done yet. I'm hoping that, if anything, I can just trim these down later down the road, then correct the design for any future builds. As it stands, I just really want to get the ball rolling and be able to test the flex.

Here's the pic we all love to see:


As for power management, I already have a bunch of spare parts laying around from when I build a bunch of PMS1s wayyyy back. I spent an hour modifying Gunnar's PMS1 files into an N64PMS:



I know it's not the best solution, but I'm cool with it for now. Now it's pretty much a waiting game until I have boards / parts in my hands!
 
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For now, I'm planning on just going with composite. I have a 64HD on hand, but I figure it's not really worth it for a portable. More power draw, and is is *really* going to be worth it? Idk...
 
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