Worklog Booshman's N64 portable

Discussion in 'Nintendo 64' started by Booshman, Feb 1, 2018.

  1. BocuD .

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    Most people add a switch in the portable to switch from internal to dock controllers for p1. Im not entirely sure how the n64 controller data is set up, but if its just one line a spdt switch would do
     
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  2. Booshman .

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    Shit, really? I hope I can sort this out without having to mess with my case too much.
     
  3. Luke .

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    Yes, a single SPST switch is required. Can't have two controllers plugged into the same slot at the same time; doesn't matter if you're not pressing buttons on both at the same time.
     
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  4. Jack Sasquatch .

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    Yep, they do share the 3.3v lines and GND.

    I've done the P1 switch, and it's not the most elegant, but it works. What would be really cool, is hack a low-push-force switch (don't know the proper term) to be pressed when you connect the dock port. I've salvaged them from nerf guns, and am wanting to implement this on my new portable. I'll draw up a diagram of what I'm talking about if that's hard to grasp.
     
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  5. SabelToothTiger .

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  6. Booshman .

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    I answered correctly about the 3.3v and ground! Must have learned something through the hours of reading and watching YouTube vids.

    Yeah, please post a diagram of what your thinking. It would be appreciated.
     
  7. Jack Sasquatch .

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    Okay, here's the rough implementation for my portable design. When the AV-out port is connected, the switch disconnects power from the screen. My pinch point is that most of those switches are rated for really small amp loads.

    I don't know what your female port looks like, exactly, but if you've got room to cut a groove into it, switches such as @SabelToothTiger mentioned would work great. Detector switch, that's the term I was looking for.

    To switch controller ports, just have P1 wired straight to a pin in the dock connector, and to the internal controller via the normally-closed switch. Easy-peasy. There shouldn't be much current on that line and the little switches will work fine.

    IMG_6773.jpg
     
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  8. Booshman .

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    That's a particularly smart solution you have there! Would not have thought of that, and it looks like it can be implemented without undoing any of the work already done.

    Edit: Thinking on though, the female hdmi is a plastic outer, with metal inside to make contact with the male hdmi. If I were to do it this way I would be making a hole in metal part of the female hdmi. Gonna have to have a think about this.
     
    Last edited: Mar 17, 2018
  9. Booshman .

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    So, after a look online I think this might work. I could go fo a detector stitch like this:

    [​IMG]

    If I have the push part within one of the recesses for the docking wheels (protruding from the central black hole):

    [​IMG]

    It will be safely contained within the case during normal use, but pushed in when docked.
     
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  10. Jack Sasquatch .

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    Oh, geez, yeah you have the perfect implementation right there on a silver platter. Those docking wheels are the way to go.
     
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  11. Booshman .

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    So I have the detector switch. I have been working a fair bit on the case to get it super smooth and painted, it's almost done. I am in the process of drawing a diagram of all the wiring I'll have to do so I have a guide to follow and I can get some feedback on, to make sure nothing is the wrong way, I have a feeling I should be using a detector switch for the audio when docked too. Sound like a good idea?
     
  12. Booshman .

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    Hi everyone. I'm back at my N64 after a long break with the birth of my daughter. I've gotten a Superpad rather flat by moving all the tallest capacitors off the edge of the PCB and relocating a couple of components. I've also done some more case work. I though the front was done, but it appears to have warped a bit, so Im in the process of adjusting it.

    Tonight I was trying to hook up an LM4863 amp to the motherboard to see if it sounded any good. My plan being to go from the mobo to this amp (which has headphone jack), then to a PAM8803 and on to the speakers. This way I thought I wouldn't have any issue with blowing out headphones, but use the power of the second amp for good volume from the speakers.

    Anyway at the AV connector, I soldered from the R, L and G to the appropiate place on the LM4863. And I soldered from +5V on the AV to the positive 5V input on the amp. I hooked it up to my TV and nothing, no signal at all. I desoldered the amp from the mobo, and still nothing. Any idea what the issue might be? Have I destroyed another mobo, and is there any danger to the Everdrive and expansion pack that were connected?

    Hopefully this thing comes back to life as I'll be gutted if I have to move onto console number 3.

    EDIT: So I tried the mobo this morning and it's working, so lucky escape there.

    I'd appreciate some feedback if anyone can tell me if my idea to use these 2 amps together is sound, and why the initial test with the first amp didn't work. I'm thinking I didn't wire the power up for the amp properly.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2019
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  13. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . .

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    Two amps in series like that can work, however make sure you use shielded wire between them, or it will just sound like a static mess. The only way we could really say if it was wired wrong would be some pictures
     
  14. Booshman .

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    Unfortunately since I undid the wiring, I don't have a picture, and I don't want to re-do it the same if it''s going make my mobo crap out again. Could you tell me if you were to do it, were would you run power to the amp from? I'll get some shielded wire and give it another crack.
     
  15. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . .

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    If you have custom regs, I'd run them from that. Otherwise, wherever you can get the required voltages
     
  16. Booshman .

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    I have made a stepdown, but that just converts 7.4v to 3.3v. Was I incorrect to think I could connect to the 5v pin on the AV, and do I need to connect the negtive input on the amp to somewhere on the mobo?

    I really appreciate the replies by the way.
     

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  17. cheese the tallest memer in town Staff Member . . .

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    You'll want to hook a ground up to the power port on the amp as well.
     
  18. Booshman .

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    Ah, I see where I went wrong now, Thanks. I'll try and wire it up again properly later.

    The amp itself doesn't fit where I have the headphone jack on my case. Could I desolder the pink one and switch it out for the smaller black one I posted on page 4 of this thread? Running wires from the amp to the jack. Or would the added distance cause interference.
     
  19. Booshman .

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    OK, so I wired it up properly this time, but using the wires from before, as they were still attached to the amp and I was low on time. I added a ground, and it works. Without a volume pot it's loud as hell, and a bit tinny sounding. Without the recommended shielded wire, it's not great during (what should be) silence either, some nice buzzing. When I get a chance I'll do a proper job with the right wire and a volume wheel. I also want to try adding my smaller jack, as witout that the thing is useless for this build anyway.
     
  20. Booshman .

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    I wired it up again with a 10k pot and shielded wire this time. It sounds much better, much less of a hum on what should be silence, and more dynamic where there is audio. I also wired my Wii-U speakers to the amp, which soud alright, they're a bit quiet, but I think that might be all they can manage. On Super Mario 64, when left in demo mode, during the Bowser fight Mario spins Bowser, there was some crackling on full volume. I've never used a real Wii-U, are the speakers in the controller quit weak? I have a feeling If I were to run from this amp to the other amp I have listed in the BOM, it might just make things worse and could blow the speaker .
    Also I have another issue with the headphones. I don't think I'm getting stereo. I was switching between mono and stereo in Mario64 and Diddy Kong Racing, and I hear no difference. It's odd, from about 50% volume and up both left and right ear sound around the same in loudness, but from there down, only the left ear gets quieter. putting the wheel to what should be 0 results in neither channel being muted, the left ear is quite quiet, and the right is significantly louder.

    I used the B103 5 pin wheel.

    1 I connected the ground from the left and right sheilded wires.
    2 RIght in.
    3 Left in.
    4 Left out.
    5 Right out.
     

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