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Board scan BOARD SCAN PS2 90006-90010

anuser

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I was curious just picked up a working 90001 did someone happen to test if the unit will run on 2s power or lower around 5v? I haven't looked as close to it like the 79001 trim info
Nope, look at my previous comment.
 
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Hi, to answer the question about the board working on 5v, no it doesn't without modifying the mosfet and the fuses, i learned this the hard way, i modded mine via bypassing the 7805's and tried to run it in 5v, it worked for a small amount of time hissing then died, i assume the mosfet didn't tolerated the 5v and pulled more current than it's designed, but it proves the voltage converter driver seems to be capable of running on 5V, now i have a brick, could you please provide the pinout and/or the datasheet for the mosfet on 072-42? i checked the fuses and it seems to be okay, as it was working i assume that it only burned the mosfet, i have a couple motherboards with 5v and 3.3V gate mosfets to use as donor boards, i got a 8.5v external PSU from a fat, wich i'm fairly sure will work on this board too, thanks.
I don’t know if this is what your looking for but here’s some very useful info by member @Tschicki https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/some-ps2-project.5433/post-57579
 

anuser

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I don’t know if this is what your looking for but here’s some very useful info by member @Tschicki https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/some-ps2-project.5433/post-57579
Thank you very much for this piece of gold, it didn't help my case but MAN i'mma help this dude in his saga, i'd always wanted to make exactly what he's doing but didn't feel like doing it alone, if you check my comment on the last page you'll see a big contribution to this wonderfull thread.
 

juanxc

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Hello, I have the cut-out 90001 laptop board and I want to use the original connection of the cooler that has 3 ground pins, positive 7.5v LDO and another pin that did not identify where it goes! From what you can see in the images that I am going to attach, it is going to have a 10k resistor but I would like to know its circuit to make the cooler work again
 

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Does anyone know the location for the fuse that power up the disc drive on this board? I've tried replacing the disc drive mechanism, the ribbon and the laser and it still won't power up
 
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Hey guys. I have this ps2 90004 ,when turn on the AC, the red light doesn't come on, the power supply is fine, I measured the voltages and I don't have the correct values in the PWM, but with the multimeter I found a short at point PS14, both sides beep and I don't know where it could come from,otherwise I didn't find any other shorts. Thanks
 

CrashBash

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Hey guys. I have this ps2 90004 ,when turn on the AC, the red light doesn't come on, the power supply is fine, I measured the voltages and I don't have the correct values in the PWM, but with the multimeter I found a short at point PS14, both sides beep and I don't know where it could come from,otherwise I didn't find any other shorts. Thanks
Your image is broken due to linking to a conversion site. Please review the forum rules, images must be uploaded via the forums to avoid broken images like this. Thanks!
 

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Are you testing continuity on both sides for the fuse alone, or are you getting continuity between either side of the fuse and ground?

The fuse itself should have continuity, but if it's shorted to ground, then that's a bigger problem.
 
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Are you testing continuity on both sides for the fuse alone, or are you getting continuity between either side of the fuse and ground?

The fuse itself should have continuity, but if it's shorted to ground, then that's a bigger problem.
Its shorts to ground, the multimeter shows low resistance and beeps.
 

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So it's only low resistance and not a dead short? (0ohms) what's the exact resistance your getting between that fuse and ground?

All multimeters have a certain threshold in continuity mode that will cause it to start beeping when theres low resistance but it doesn't always necessarily mean there's a short. For example my 79001 ps2 has low enough resistance on the 1.25v line that causes my multimeter to beep but there's not actually a short and it works fine.

The fuse that your testing is on the 3.5v rail so I'm assuming if your meters beeping then there is something wrong however I don't have a 90k ps2 to test to make sure.

What I would do is plug your PS2 in and test to see if your getting 3.5v standby voltage. Keep in mind that the 3.5v and 3.5v standby are kind of 2 different things, so test the dark green area as pictured at the top of this thread and report back
 
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So it's only low resistance and not a dead short? (0ohms) what's the exact resistance your getting between that fuse and ground?

All multimeters have a certain threshold in continuity mode that will cause it to start beeping when theres low resistance but it doesn't always necessarily mean there's a short. For example my 79001 ps2 has low enough resistance on the 1.25v line that causes my multimeter to beep but there's not actually a short and it works fine.

The fuse that your testing is on the 3.5v rail so I'm assuming if your meters beeping then there is something wrong however I don't have a 90k ps2 to test to make sure.

What I would do is plug your PS2 in and test to see if your getting 3.5v standby voltage. Keep in mind that the 3.5v and 3.5v standby are kind of 2 different things, so test the dark green area as pictured at the top of this thread and report back
I have the correct standby voltages 1.8 and 3.5, at point PS14 the multimeter shows a resistance of 19ohm, but at point 7.5v LDO I have nothing, I don't really understand what he means, but I tried jamming the 7.5v for the 7.5v LDO and the standby LED turns on for a few milliseconds and then turns off, but I don't want to experiment too much with that for fear of burning something.
 

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It sounds like the 7.5v rail is either shorted to ground somehow, or you have a faulty LDO. I would test any capacitor connected to the 7.5v rail to see if you can find any shorts to ground and also recheck your fuses (specifically any fuse that might be connected to 7.5v) whereas you put power to it.

It's likely something might be connecting your 7.5v to ground if your light came on for a sec then died.
 
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It sounds like the 7.5v rail is either shorted to ground somehow, or you have a faulty LDO. I would test any capacitor connected to the 7.5v rail to see if you can find any shorts to ground and also recheck your fuses (specifically any fuse that might be connected to 7.5v) whereas you put power to it.

It's likely something might be connecting your 7.5v to ground if your light came on for a sec then died.
Hey,I solved the problem, it was an open 1k ohm resistor block, the standby light already turns on but I press the button, it turns green, the console gives video but only a black screen appears and no sound, I also tried to change another resistor block responsible for the video and image, but nothing changed.
 

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Glad to hear you got it figured out!

Is the DAC getting warm when the console is turned on?
 
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Glad to hear you got it figured out!

Is the DAC getting warm when the console is turned on?
Tanks!

yes, I measured the temperature and it seems to be normal, the GPU also heats up at normal temperature, and I also tested all the voltages and they are ok, I also tested all the fuses and they are ok too.
 

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Just to confirm, your console hasn't been otherwise modified has it? Are you testing using the video out port?
 

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Ah okay. At least the console boots but it might be a little harder to narrow down your issue now. Hopefully the DAC isn't fried.

Are you getting any activity at all on your TV when turning on the console, or nothing at all?
 
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Ah okay. At least the console boots but it might be a little harder to narrow down your issue now. Hopefully the DAC isn't fried.

Are you getting any activity at all on your TV when turning on the console, or nothing at all?
Yes, the console displays video but it remains on a black screen. I've heard that it could be the BIOS chip.
 
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