Ashida Wii Portable

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I understand that I have to do a lot of research and that i won't always have help, but how can I use the ashida file on the PCBWay website Im just really confused about that.
It really comes back to reading everything in the first post, you said yourself the files you downloaded were too big. So did you look for the ones labeled for pcbway as CrashBash previously said? There's a reason there's multiple sets of files to download.
 
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It really comes back to reading everything in the first post, you said yourself the files you downloaded were too big. So did you look for the ones labeled for pcbway as Wesk previously said? There's a reason there's multiple sets of files to download.
I didn't see those I will relook to see if I can find them thank you!

Should I be doing this on some sort of PC or is a tablet fine?

[MOD EDIT] Posts merged, use the edit feature - final warning.
 
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@DeathGamer21 I'm not sure where you're having the trouble so I'll break this down very simple for you,

You'll probably want a computer, as it typically is easier to navigate files on a computer rather than a tablet. Also some computers do not recognize the portable as a usb device. I can confirm that computers running Windows 10 or Ubuntu (Linux) will work. I haven't been able to get my MacBook to recognize the device once it's built but maybe someone has. There is no guarantee that a tablet will recognize the usb in the portable, so even if you are able to format the usb correctly so that the Wii recognizes it, you will have to take apart the portable any time you want to edit the contents in storage (games, VC, Channels, etc.), and the usb in the Ashida is not very easily accessible as it is somewhat covered by the main motherboard.

The files can be downloaded by clicking the link on the original post that says Ashida Optimized Files. A zipped "rar" file will then be downloaded. You will have to unzip that file. Most computers now have included software that will do so, but if yours does not you can download a free unzipping program, such as 7zip or WinRAR. From the newly unzipped file you will need to navigate the directories to find the files. The easiest path is probably Ashida Optimised > Main Body SLA (PCBWay Compatible) > Ashida Front (or Ashida Back). The front and back files are the ones you are going to need to upload to PCBWay.

When navigating to PCBWay, you will see some tabs near the top of the screen. One of them says "CNC | 3D Printing." If you hover on that tab, a drop down menu will appear where you can select "3D Printing." On that screen, you should see "+ Select CAD Files." Select and drag the Ashida Front and Ashida Back files to that spot in the window and they will begin to upload. It may take some time depending on your internet connection, but eventually they will upload and you will be able to choose the material and color from the options they have available. On the right hand side, once you have finished uploading and choosing materials, there will be a large green button that says "Submit Request." Press that when you want to submit your files for review. When they pass, they will begin printing and then be shipped to you.

I echo everyone else thus far by saying you have a long road ahead of you. I assure you that our intentions are purely benign when we say this. You will need to study very closely a lot of material before you are going to be able to attempt your first portable. I would suggest the following material, since things can be a little bit difficult to find at times to newcomers:


Good luck, we wish you the best. Remember that when it comes to your equipment buy nice or buy twice. I think I can speak for us all when I say we hope it turns out good for you.
 
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@DeathGamer21 I'm not sure where you're having the trouble so I'll break this down very simple for you,

You'll probably want a computer, as it typically is easier to navigate files on a computer rather than a tablet. Also some computers do not recognize the portable as a usb device. I can confirm that computers running Windows 10 or Ubuntu (Linux) will work. I haven't been able to get my MacBook to recognize the device once it's built but maybe someone has. There is no guarantee that a tablet will recognize the usb in the portable, so even if you are able to format the usb correctly so that the Wii recognizes it, you will have to take apart the portable any time you want to edit the contents in storage (games, VC, Channels, etc.), and the usb in the Ashida is not very easily accessible as it is somewhat covered by the main motherboard.

The files can be downloaded by clicking the link on the original post that says Ashida Optimized Files. A zipped "rar" file will then be downloaded. You will have to unzip that file. Most computers now have included software that will do so, but if yours does not you can download a free unzipping program, such as 7zip or WinRAR. From the newly unzipped file you will need to navigate the directories to find the files. The easiest path is probably Ashida Optimised > Main Body SLA (PCBWay Compatible) > Ashida Front (or Ashida Back). The front and back files are the ones you are going to need to upload to PCBWay.

When navigating to PCBWay, you will see some tabs near the top of the screen. One of them says "CNC | 3D Printing." If you hover on that tab, a drop down menu will appear where you can select "3D Printing." On that screen, you should see "+ Select CAD Files." Select and drag the Ashida Front and Ashida Back files to that spot in the window and they will begin to upload. It may take some time depending on your internet connection, but eventually they will upload and you will be able to choose the material and color from the options they have available. On the right hand side, once you have finished uploading and choosing materials, there will be a large green button that says "Submit Request." Press that when you want to submit your files for review. When they pass, they will begin printing and then be shipped to you.

I echo everyone else thus far by saying you have a long road ahead of you. I assure you that our intentions are purely benign when we say this. You will need to study very closely a lot of material before you are going to be able to attempt your first portable. I would suggest the following material, since things can be a little bit difficult to find at times to newcomers:


Good luck, we wish you the best. Remember that when it comes to your equipment buy nice or buy twice. I think I can speak for us all when I say we hope it turns out good for you.
Thank you for helping i didn't understand it before but I do now!
 
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Not sure what I may be doing wrong, but I'm unable to fully close the console when I have both the 3D printed trigger lock mounts and PCB mounts installed. I printed them off myself at home and the prints seem pretty clean, but there appears to be a fair bit of overlap between the two parts. It's possible to force the console shut, but the the triggers fail to made proper contact with the PCB in the mount since they are physically moved out of position by the lock mount. Was wondering if anyone else has encountered this and/or if the original files were available to modify?
 

Wesk

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Not sure what I may be doing wrong, but I'm unable to fully close the console when I have both the 3D printed trigger lock mounts and PCB mounts installed. I printed them off myself at home and the prints seem pretty clean, but there appears to be a fair bit of overlap between the two parts. It's possible to force the console shut, but the the triggers fail to made proper contact with the PCB in the mount since they are physically moved out of position by the lock mount. Was wondering if anyone else has encountered this and/or if the original files were available to modify?
The trigger locking mounts need to have a complete rework, just remove them for now.
 

JpRise

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WOW! This is like my dream console and you make it come true!

I just ordered everything needed to start the project.
I can't wait!!!
I'll take the time to read the forums.:D
 

Wesk

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Battery life expectancy test outcomes:

Hardware specifics:
- Buydisplay IPS screen.
- Aurelio's Direct Drive.
- 2x4800mah Panasonic/Tesla 21700's.
- No MX or BT installed.
- PMS2 with LDO removed from Wii.


Software setup:
- Pre-release RVLoader 1.6.
- Fan configured to 100% speed.
- Volume at 0%


Stress test configuration:
Game - Smash Bros Melee.
Mode - Endless melee.
Fighters - 4xlvl 9 CPU Ice climbers.
Stage - Pokemon Stadium
Items - Very high, Pokeballs only.


Battery life with 100% brightness (Outdoor use) = 2 hours 40 mins approx.

Battery life with approx 30% brightness (Indoor use) = 3 hours 10 mins approx.
 
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Is anyone using a tempered glass protector on their unit? If so what are you using? I just replaced the LCD in mine because it scratched very easily. I still have the factory protector on the new panel until I can figure out something that fits.
 
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I'm most of the way through all my material gathering and such. I've watched the assembly video about a dozen times. Does the BitBuilt Manual on wiring things cover what's needed for the ashida setup? The video's assembly is fairly general of course, but I'm not sure if the manual is sufficient. The LED for example. You put it in the hole and....
 

Wesk

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I'm most of the way through all my material gathering and such. I've watched the assembly video about a dozen times. Does the BitBuilt Manual on wiring things cover what's needed for the ashida setup? The video's assembly is fairly general of course, but I'm not sure if the manual is sufficient. The LED for example. You put it in the hole and....
The information is on the 4layertech.com site where you purchase the required hardware.
 
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With all the parts and pieces from the 4layer boards and the Ashida pcb set, am I correct in concluding the U10 relocation and custom regulators are no longer needed (as it says they are in the definitive trimming guide)? The U10 is emulated by the pms, so it's just a single wire from the pms, and the regulators are all broken down so the voltages are controlled and distributed properly.
 

GingerOfOz

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With all the parts and pieces from the 4layer boards and the Ashida pcb set, am I correct in concluding the U10 relocation and custom regulators are no longer needed (as it says they are in the definitive trimming guide)? The U10 is emulated by the pms, so it's just a single wire from the pms, and the regulators are all broken down so the voltages are controlled and distributed properly.
Yep, the PMS fills the requirements for both of those.
 

Anubis

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Will the bluetooth module really only require one wire on S2 of the ashida board to connect? Or have I overlooked an item?
 

Wesk

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Will the bluetooth module really only require one wire on S2 of the ashida board to connect? Or have I overlooked an item?
It needs to be wired to the Wii as shown in the the trimming guide. S2 on the Ashida interface PCB is for putting the BT module into sync mode so you can sync Wiimotes, etc.
 
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There was some discussion about printing on an Ender 3. I was able to get it to print, although it was at a weird angle and there's some (slightly) rough parts where the supports connected. Overall its perfectly acceptable and I think it came out great.

Print info in case someone is interested:
-Printed on an Ender V2 (it barely fits, but will indeed work)
- Standard PLA filament
- Slicer software was Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1
- Using default setting for my printer model (setup using Cura's wizard) with two exceptions:
- Print Temp 205C (slightly higher than default)
- Print Speed slightly slower than default, I believe its a little slower than 40mm/s
-Printed on best quality (0.12mm)

If someone would like the Gcode I am happy to share.
20220214_062912.jpg
20220223_081525.jpg
20220312_181751.jpg
Front Panel.PNG
20220312_182839.jpg
 
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There was some discussion about printing on an Ender 3. I was able to get it to print, although it was at a weird angle and there's some (slightly) rough parts where the supports connected. Overall its perfectly acceptable and I think it came out great.

Print info in case someone is interested:
-Printed on an Ender V2 (it barely fits, but will indeed work)
- Standard PLA filament
- Slicer software was Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1
- Using default setting for my printer model (setup using Cura's wizard) with two exceptions:
- Print Temp 205C (slightly higher than default)
- Print Speed slightly slower than default, I believe its a little slower than 40mm/s
-Printed on best quality (0.12mm)

If someone would like the Gcode I am happy to share.View attachment 21661View attachment 21662View attachment 21663View attachment 21664View attachment 21666
can i get the gcode?
 
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There was some discussion about printing on an Ender 3. I was able to get it to print, although it was at a weird angle and there's some (slightly) rough parts where the supports connected. Overall its perfectly acceptable and I think it came out great.

Print info in case someone is interested:
-Printed on an Ender V2 (it barely fits, but will indeed work)
- Standard PLA filament
- Slicer software was Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1
- Using default setting for my printer model (setup using Cura's wizard) with two exceptions:
- Print Temp 205C (slightly higher than default)
- Print Speed slightly slower than default, I believe its a little slower than 40mm/s
-Printed on best quality (0.12mm)

If someone would like the Gcode I am happy to share.View attachment 21661View attachment 21662View attachment 21663View attachment 21664View attachment 21666
Hi topper348, would you be able to share the
There was some discussion about printing on an Ender 3. I was able to get it to print, although it was at a weird angle and there's some (slightly) rough parts where the supports connected. Overall its perfectly acceptable and I think it came out great.

Print info in case someone is interested:
-Printed on an Ender V2 (it barely fits, but will indeed work)
- Standard PLA filament
- Slicer software was Ultimaker Cura 4.13.1
- Using default setting for my printer model (setup using Cura's wizard) with two exceptions:
- Print Temp 205C (slightly higher than default)
- Print Speed slightly slower than default, I believe its a little slower than 40mm/s
-Printed on best quality (0.12mm)

If someone would like the Gcode I am happy to share.View attachment 21661View attachment 21662View attachment 21663View attachment 21664View attachment 21666
hi would you be willing to share your g code with me please?
 
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