Ashida Wii Portable

Stitches

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Hey everyone. Quick question about the Z tactile switches for the Ashida. In the BOM, when I open the link to the part in DigiKey, the switches are top-mounted, but when I look at the tactile switch for the Z button on a GC controller, it's side-mounted (meaning the legs run perpendicular to the button, rather than parallel). And when I look at the Ashida boards from 4layer, where the Z tactile switches get soldered, they appear to be designed for side-mounted switches rather than the top-mounted switches linked in the BOM.

Am I missing something? Can the switches linked in the BOM from DigiKey be used? I'd drop the DigiKey link from the BOM in this post, but I think that's not allowed since I don't have 10 posts yet. :)

Thanks for any help anyone can provide!
 

Wesk

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Hey everyone. Quick question about the Z tactile switches for the Ashida. In the BOM, when I open the link to the part in DigiKey, the switches are top-mounted, but when I look at the tactile switch for the Z button on a GC controller, it's side-mounted (meaning the legs run perpendicular to the button, rather than parallel). And when I look at the Ashida boards from 4layer, where the Z tactile switches get soldered, they appear to be designed for side-mounted switches rather than the top-mounted switches linked in the BOM.

Am I missing something? Can the switches linked in the BOM from DigiKey be used? I'd drop the DigiKey link from the BOM in this post, but I think that's not allowed since I don't have 10 posts yet. :)

Thanks for any help anyone can provide!
The 90 degree tacts aren't and haven't been in stock for a while. The standard tacts can be used in their place by bending the legs to fit.
 
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The 90 degree tacts aren't and haven't been in stock for a while. The standard tacts can be used in their place by bending the legs to fit.
Okay, cool. That works. Thanks for the clarification. BTW, your design and the boards from 4layer are FANTASTIC! All of the oher components that I've soldered in so far, whether from a GC controller or from DigiKey, have fit PERFECTLY!

Really appreciate all the work you must've done on this!
 
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Okay, I've read through the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide, and I think I'm ready to trim my Wii board but I'd like to do a sanity check before I start doing things that are gonna be hard to undo. Please let me know if I'm missing any steps or if I'm just wrong about anything.

I've installed rvloader and selected no wifi and enabled VGA. I've confirmed rvloader runs as expected.

Since I'm going to use the rvl-pms-lite, I do NOT need to relocate U10, correct? Also, I do NOT need to create custom regulators (as mentioned in the trimming guide). Is that correct?

Since I'm using the pms-pd, I do NOT need to do anything with the Wii USB ports or SD card slot, correct?

Since I'm not planning on using wireless controllers on my Ashida, I do NOT need to do anything with the Bluetooth adapter, correct?

Lastly, is there anything I need to do with the Wii motherboard in order to use VGA? I'm using the 5" IPS screen and driver board from 4 layer if that makes a difference.

Sorry for the long post. I just want to make sure I'm clear before I start cutting things. :)

Thanks for your help!
 

Stitches

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Okay, I've read through the Definitive Wii Trimming Guide, and I think I'm ready to trim my Wii board but I'd like to do a sanity check before I start doing things that are gonna be hard to undo. Please let me know if I'm missing any steps or if I'm just wrong about anything.

I've installed rvloader and selected no wifi and enabled VGA. I've confirmed rvloader runs as expected.

Since I'm going to use the rvl-pms-lite, I do NOT need to relocate U10, correct? Also, I do NOT need to create custom regulators (as mentioned in the trimming guide). Is that correct?

Since I'm using the pms-pd, I do NOT need to do anything with the Wii USB ports or SD card slot, correct?

Since I'm not planning on using wireless controllers on my Ashida, I do NOT need to do anything with the Bluetooth adapter, correct?

Lastly, is there anything I need to do with the Wii motherboard in order to use VGA? I'm using the 5" IPS screen and driver board from 4 layer if that makes a difference.

Sorry for the long post. I just want to make sure I'm clear before I start cutting things. :)

Thanks for your help!
You don't need to relocate U10, correct. The PMS-Lite has its own U10 pad that you can connect to the U10 via. And the PMS-Lite houses all needed custom regulators, except for 1.8v. The Wii's stock 1.8v linear regulator remains on the board when performing a OMGWTF trim, and is used by the PMS for logic reference.

Once RVLoader is installed and working via USB, you don't need to do anything else. If all goes well, you just have to connect the D+ and D- pads on the PD to the corresponding USB data vias on the Wii. Ideally this should be done with 34AWG or 38AWG enamelled magnet wire.

You can ignore the bluetooth module if you have no plans to use Wiimotes or any of the other wireless Wii controllers. The inbuilt GC+2 Gamecube controller can be configured via per-game RVLoader settings to emulate most Wiimote controls, which allows for most Wii games to be playable without need for the bluetooth module.

The only thing you need to do is solder two wires to two small legs on the Wii's AVE chip. H sync and V sync have no pads or vias, and are legacy outputs that were used during console development. We can use them thanks to Aurelio's VGA patch, but sadly they can only be accessed by soldering 2 small fiddly wires to the little AVE legs.
 

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Does anyone had a guide to ordering the a 3D print out from PCBWAY or JLCPCB? I want to make sure that I get all the selections right since it's not something I want to get done twice if I can avoid it. Hearing detailed ordering steps from someone who has done it successfully would be super helpful. Also, I've heard don't do resin, and then seen some examples of resin that look amazing. Have people who did the resin version come to regret it? Is it okay to do resin at this point? I have to say I like that smooth look.
 
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You don't need to relocate U10, correct. The PMS-Lite has its own U10 pad that you can connect to the U10 via. And the PMS-Lite houses all needed custom regulators, except for 1.8v. The Wii's stock 1.8v linear regulator remains on the board when performing a OMGWTF trim, and is used by the PMS for logic reference.

Once RVLoader is installed and working via USB, you don't need to do anything else. If all goes well, you just have to connect the D+ and D- pads on the PD to the corresponding USB data vias on the Wii. Ideally this should be done with 34AWG or 38AWG enamelled magnet wire.

You can ignore the bluetooth module if you have no plans to use Wiimotes or any of the other wireless Wii controllers. The inbuilt GC+2 Gamecube controller can be configured via per-game RVLoader settings to emulate most Wiimote controls, which allows for most Wii games to be playable without need for the bluetooth module.

The only thing you need to do is solder two wires to two small legs on the Wii's AVE chip. H sync and V sync have no pads or vias, and are legacy outputs that were used during console development. We can use them thanks to Aurelio's VGA patch, but sadly they can only be accessed by soldering 2 small fiddly wires to the little AVE legs.
This is super helpful, Stitches. Thank you!
 
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Does anyone had a guide to ordering the a 3D print out from PCBWAY or JLCPCB? I want to make sure that I get all the selections right since it's not something I want to get done twice if I can avoid it. Hearing detailed ordering steps from someone who has done it successfully would be super helpful. Also, I've heard don't do resin, and then seen some examples of resin that look amazing. Have people who did the resin version come to regret it? Is it okay to do resin at this point? I have to say I like that smooth look.
I'm still very new to this, as well, so I can't offer a lot of advice, but I had similar questions and got some good answers earlier in this thread. Here's the link - https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/ashida-wii-portable.4529/post-58557

I ended up using PCBway and going with SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) for the outside shell pieces with Nylon as the material. From what I can tell, they came out looking very nice, but they definitely could still use some sanding. And I haven't started installing any components into the shells, yet, so maybe there are some small misalignments that aren't immediately apparent. It's one of, if not the most, expensive options but I'm taking a 'spare no expense' approach with this.
 

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At no point was this designed to be split up, that doesn't mean it's not possible but I doubt it'll turn out well.

That being said other users have managed to fit it on an Ender 3 already:
Does anyone know what model is the Ender 3 like in the picture? I'm looking for one to make the case.

Also does it fit on the version 2 of Ender 3?
 
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Will a GBA Potentiometer work? Only asking because the link on the BOM isnt working for me.
 

Stitches

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Will a GBA Potentiometer work? Only asking because the link on the BOM isnt working for me.
I don't know what curve the GBA pots use, but any single channel linear B103 wheel pot will do. It's a generic part, so you don't have to get the linked one
 
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Is there any preferred wires for this build. And I was wondering if you put a micro sd card with rvloader on it with games in it because I looked into it and I was confused.
 

Stitches

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Is there any preferred wires for this build. And I was wondering if you put a micro sd card with rvloader on it with games in it because I looked into it and I was confused.
I told you about wire types here before https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/starting-my-first-portable-wii-louii.5284/post-58965

For the game files, yes, you put RVLoader and your games on the same USB drive. If you're using a microSD to USB adapter, this is basically the same thing. You don't need, and should not use, an SD card or microSD card in the Wii's SD card slot. The only storage medium that should be connected to the Wii to run RVLoader is your USB drive.
 
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I told you about wire types here before https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/starting-my-first-portable-wii-louii.5284/post-58965

For the game files, yes, you put RVLoader and your games on the same USB drive. If you're using a microSD to USB adapter, this is basically the same thing. You don't need, and should not use, an SD card or microSD card in the Wii's SD card slot. The only storage medium that should be connected to the Wii to run RVLoader is your USB drive.
So you want to add the games on before you trim it or do you want to get a small usb to add into the build?

So you want to add the games on before you trim it or do you want to get a small usb to add into the build?
Oh wait never mind sorry I see how it works thanks!

Ok one last round of questions. Does relocating the bluetooth chip allow for connection of Wiimotes? And does the guide for the MX chip/ bluetooth chip work if i use the one for the G-Boy
 

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Ok one last round of questions. Does relocating the bluetooth chip allow for connection of Wiimotes? And does the guide for the MX chip/ bluetooth chip work if i use the one for the G-Boy
Please don't double/tripple post. Instead edit them.
If you relocate the BT module, it'll allow you to connect Wiimotes. Can you tell me exactly what you mean with the second question?
 
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Please don't double/tripple post. Instead edit them.
If you relocate the BT module, it'll allow you to connect Wiimotes. Can you tell me exactly what you mean with the second question?
Sorry for the multi post. Also sorry if you didn’t want me to reply to this, but if i shouldn’t I know now. What I mean by the second question is there is a guide I found for both the MX chip relocation and the BT relocation, but it says it’s for the G-Boy. Would that fit, or is there a different spot I would have to add it to? Post: https://manual.bitbuilt.net/step/optional-mx-chip-relocation/19/
 

Stitches

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Sorry for the multi post. Also sorry if you didn’t want me to reply to this, but if i shouldn’t I know now. What I mean by the second question is there is a guide I found for both the MX chip relocation and the BT relocation, but it says it’s for the G-Boy. Would that fit, or is there a different spot I would have to add it to? Post: https://manual.bitbuilt.net/step/optional-mx-chip-relocation/19/
The pinouts in the G-Boy guide are valid for all builds. You can position/mount the MX chip and BT modules in different locations, but the wiring remains the same
 
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Question about painting the case. I've painted my case with an acrylic enamel spray paint and I think it came out well for a novice. But I'm wondering if I now need to add some sort of protective coating or not. A while back, someone recommended 2K Clear Coat. But after reading up on 2K Clear Coat, it looks like it is extremely hazardous to your health and requires very specific protective gear. Is there anything a little less toxic that works reasonably well? Or is it okay to just leave it without any protective coating over the acrylic enamel? Thanks!
 

Stitches

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Question about painting the case. I've painted my case with an acrylic enamel spray paint and I think it came out well for a novice. But I'm wondering if I now need to add some sort of protective coating or not. A while back, someone recommended 2K Clear Coat. But after reading up on 2K Clear Coat, it looks like it is extremely hazardous to your health and requires very specific protective gear. Is there anything a little less toxic that works reasonably well? Or is it okay to just leave it without any protective coating over the acrylic enamel? Thanks!
You can use any acrylic paint compatible clear coat. I've had decent results with Dulux, but that's mostly an Australian brand. Rustoleum and Krylon are more available overseas, and I remember Madmorda used to rave about Krylon being good.

I would definitely put a clear coat on the case to protect it. Otherwise the paint will be scratched and worn down directly by friction, skin oil, sun exposure, and any other bumps and scrapes
 
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