Question Ashida Wii Help

[Kobym17]

Hi everyone! I’m new to the console portabilizing world but have been working on my first portable for about a month: an Ashida.

I’ve managed to build a fully functional Ashida with one major issue: no button (or stick) inputs. I believe this has something to do with my gc2.0+ wiring, be that the actual gc2.0+ wiring itself, or the ground, 3.3v, or data line running to the Wii.

At this point, I’ve confirmed that I have continuity and voltage (~3.25v) from the Wii to the gc+ pcb for ground, 3.3v, and data. I’ve also confirmed that I have no shorts on my gc+ pads or shorts between any of the pads on the pcb (as ugly as some of the soldering may look).

This problem is interesting because I originally had button and stick input (as evident by my ability to have navigated to the settings menu) but when I opened the console up to work on some things, I lost button functionality.

One interesting thing I found out is that my GameCube controller data line has no continuity from the via to the RA1 pin. Maybe this has something to do with my issues.

Im wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what may be causing my button/gc+ issues. Pictures are attached (please forgive the lack of R+/R- speaker wires. I’ll be reattaching those shortly). I will gladly answer and questions that you all may have. Thank you in advance for your time.

 

[GingerOfOz]

My guess would be an issue with the data wire. It sounds like you've checked for continuity there, but sometimes the act of closing the case or shifting it causes the connection to loosen up. If your screen is working fine then it's likely not a voltage issue, so I'd recommend just redoing the GC data line

Sounds like you've been pretty thorough with your troubleshooting, good luck with getting it finished!

 

[Stitches]

Cleaning that residual flux off would be a good first step. It might have some conductive debris in it that shifted and is causing a transient short

 

[Kobym17]

My guess would be an issue with the data wire. It sounds like you've checked for continuity there, but sometimes the act of closing the case or shifting it causes the connection to loosen up. If your screen is working fine then it's likely not a voltage issue, so I'd recommend just redoing the GC data line

Sounds like you've been pretty thorough with your troubleshooting, good luck with getting it finished!

Ginger,

Thank you for the reply! Your vods have been instrumental in me getting to this step. Appreciate all you do for the community. Will double check the GC data line tomorrow and let you know how I make out.

 

[Kobym17]

Cleaning that residual flux off would be a good first step. It might have some conductive debris in it that shifted and is causing a transient short

Stitches,

Thank you for the reply. I will clean off my boards thoroughly tomorrow. Out of curiosity, do you know if the other GC data vias (2,3,&4) on the Wii work for the GC+2.0 GC data line? I’m a little concerned about the lack of continuity between data via 1 and the data 1 pin on the topside of the black RA1 component. Thanks in advance

 

[Stitches]

Stitches,

Thank you for the reply. I will clean off my boards thoroughly tomorrow. Out of curiosity, do you know if the other GC data vias (2,3,&4) on the Wii work for the GC+2.0 GC data line? I’m a little concerned about the lack of continuity between data via 1 and the data 1 pin on the topside of the black RA1 component. Thanks in advance

The GC+ just emulates a controller, so it will work on any port/data line. You need it to be connected to line 1 to play any games tho, since all games use line 1 as player 1 and that can't be overridden

 

[Kobym17]

The GC+ just emulates a controller, so it will work on any port/data line. You need it to be connected to line 1 to play any games tho, since all games use line 1 as player 1 and that can't be overridden

Understood. Thanks again, Stitches!

 

[Kobym17]

Hi again all,

Still struggling to get GC data from the Wii to the GC+. I think I may have messed my Wii motherboard up in the process (please see pics). I’ve ripped the data 1 trace up and am unable to get solder to stick well to the data 1 via (even after scraping the solder mask). I’ve cleaned my Wii motherboard and pcb/GC+ to the best of my ability

My questions:

1. is it concerning that I have no continuity from data 1 pin on RA1 component to data 1 via?

2. If my data 1 via is not salvageable from the back of the board, could it still work if I run my GC data line to the frontside of the via?

hoping I can salvage this motherboard. Thanks in advance!

 

[starter866]

Try this via

 

[Kobym17]

View attachment 31429

Try this via

Hi Starter,

thanks for the reply. I would try that via if I hadn’t ripped up the trace. After further review, I believe I killed the data 1 pin of the RA1, as evident by no continuity between the RA1 pin and via. This component is a 750 ohm resistor array. Gman mentioned in a thread from 2021 that a 750 ohm resistor can be added from GC Data to 3.3v to restore GC+ functionality. I’m going to attempt this approach unless anyone else has a different solution

 

[Kobym17]

Update:

I ended up scraping the data 1 trace a bit and was able to get continuity from RA1 to GCD on the GC+ pcb so I soldered my GC data wire directed to RA1 (picture attached). I get continuity/voltage to all GC+ pcb pins, but still no controller function (with the case open or closed). Any other suggestions? I’m at a loss here

 

[Kobym17]

Hi all,

Final post on this thread for a bit. I believe that I was soldering my u10 via to the wrong via. I was still able to get the wii to boot without u10 at the correct spot for some reason.

In the image of my board below, you can see I was soldering u10 to a GC data 2 via. I got this via from Dubesinhowers Ashida build video (screenshot below). However, the pms-2 documentation mentions a different via (again, screenshot below). I’m not sure if both of these vias work, but just wanted to point this out.

At any rate, I believe my GC data lines are beyond repair on this motherboard. Ordered a new one and will try again next weekend.

 

[GingerOfOz]

Sometimes a Wii is still able to boot up, even without the U10 relocation. When this happens, it boots up into an almost half-awake state, where it might be able to load RVLoader but can't do anything past that. Definitely make sure you're using the right via in the future.

 

[Kobym17]

Thanks Ginger,

I’m still troubled by the fact that even with the wrong u10 via, I had controller functionality briefly — albeit very unstable

 

[Kobym17]

Hi All,

Just wanted to let everyone know that attempt 2 was a success! Must have been my butchered data 1 pin on my first motherboard. Thanks again to all for your support! Special thanks to Ginger and Dubesinhower for the vods/how-to videos. I would have been lost without them.

internals, external, and obligatory Wind Waker pic below.

PSA:
To those reading this who have been on the fence about building a portable, just go for it. As someone who also came into this project with little to no electronics knowledge/soldering ability, I understand that it seems like a daunting task. Do your research, acquire the proper tools, and practice, practice, practice. If I could do it, so can you. It truly is a wonderful learning experience and the most satisfying and rewarding thing I’ve ever created.

until next time! Take care everyone