A Side Project

Doom

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I saw a YouTube video where a guy built a Pi SP and used the 3ds slider as a joystick. It moved a bit slow, but that's probably pregaming.

As for the hinges, I see your dilemma :T
Could you use a laptop-type hinge where it moves reluctantly but stays in any position you want? As opposed to the clicky ones in 3ds consoles.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172323673960
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331811141681

You probably only need one, but those screw holes look convenient.
Quoting this to remember about these hinges for later. Friction hinges are usually stupid expensive so this definitely looks like a nice meme.
 

Madmorda

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Quoting this to remember about these hinges for later. Friction hinges are usually stupid expensive so this definitely looks like a nice meme.
My only worry about those is that because laptops are so large, those hinges might be a little too strong for a small hinged project like this. A portable dvd player hinge might be a little weaker, or maybe for a smaller laptop. I'll keep an eye open for toys that have them. There have to be a bunch, and tiny friction hinges would be useful for a lot of things.

Haha I guess there's always legos.
 
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The 3ds slider can be used as a joystick for games, for sure, I just can't remember how easy it is to make it double as a mouse in rasbian.
If you use a teensy as your gamepad it is very easy to set up the 3ds slider as a mouse then setup retroarch to use mouse input for analog joysticks. Plus the teensy is tiny and has media button controls, joystick, and keyboard inputs. It is fairly easy to code it in arduino. I have some code already written if you would like. It also integrates a resistive touchscreen driver if you want to use the 3ds' touch pen.
 

Luke

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I have some code already written if you would like.
Yeah dude, send it my way! Thanks!! The teensy is what I was planning on using, I have it already.

Okay, maybe not so much of an update but you guys might find it interesting enough - the screen driver board modifications are complete.
As a reminder, the big problem with my board is that because of all the components, it is way too thick to fit in the top half of the case along with the actual screen, so I would have to make it thinner.

The first step was to hack off the voltage regulator side of the board. Along with it went all the capacitors and a few other thick components (consult pictures on the first page for reference).
20161206_204609.jpg

The two things left to relocate were one inductor and one crystal.
20161206_204636.jpg

Things got pretty crazy, but it works. The verdict here is that you can trim this board crazy small. I only chopped off the right side, but significant portions can be taken off the left and bottom as well (but I didn't bother because it wouldn't have made it any thinner. I relocated that crystal completely (it's outside the image), and the inductor I broke off, drilled a hole in the board, wedged it in, and reconnected. Looks stupid but if it works it works, I guess. The wire labeled "Btns" is for the buttons that I removed. Grounding it through the 3 resistors on the far left next to where the buttons used to be will still give me their functionality. Sorry if all this is confusing.
board.jpg


Will rewire a bit to make it nicer and then attempt to put it all in the top half of the 3ds case. Cross your fingers for me! It's still a really snug fit!
 

DeoNaught

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have you considered using a DSI xl case?
when I make a mini pi latop that's whats I'm gonna use.
 

Luke

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I had considered a 3ds xl case but I wanted it to be smaller. One other problem I had with it was the keyboard that I'm using. If I put it into a regular 3ds case my thumbs can easily reach all the keys without having to stretch. In the 3ds xl case,it's harder to type comfortably while holding it because I have to stretch to type the center keys.
 

Acronell

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The hinge of the DSlite on the left side, is hollow, and allows for the LCD ribbon and speaker wires to feed through from the base of the console. There is a slot specfically for the lcd ribbon to feed through in the base on the console where the hinge meets the base.
 
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This is technically not a bump because this forum section is kinda dead.

+1 to the guy who mentioned the teensy. Was starting to read this and saw your problem and was going to mention it. If you have trouble getting the slider functioning right, there are libraries / a bunch of sample code for interfacing with the wii nunchuck.
 

Luke

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Yeah I need to get back on this. The hinge is holding me up pretty bad right now. I don't know what to do about it.
 
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Sorry for bumping... I was perusing the threads and wanted to let you know that I recently found some great info on connecting those LCDs like the one you have directly to the Pi with a TFT Friend. I'm kinda obsessed with it cause it's pixel-perfect and doesn't require a driver board. Check out the GC+ giveaway thread for my post about it if you're interested.
 

Luke

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The bottom half of the case is done, I'm at work and don't have a pic of it fully painted, but here it is with the top half of the keyboard case jb welded in and after the first round of sanding. Now it's primed, painted, and glossed, and I'll post that picture later.
update.jpg

The hinge is holding me up pretty bad right now. I don't know what to do about it.
I may be able to use the original hinge, but I'm still unsure at this point. I don't know what else I would do honestly, without compromising the look of an actual 3DS.
 

Madmorda

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As far as hinges go, what if it wasn't a friction hinge, but stayed open at a certain position and was able to move freely otherwise? My wiip shell has just a plastic bar that moves easily, but when it reaches the position that a ds would normally click to on the first click, it won't go any farther. You could do this on yours with just a small piece of plastic or two. You wouldn't be able to play it while laying on your back with it above your head, but it would allow you to choose where you want it to "click". I think with the stock 3ds hinge, the weight of your new screen + driver board might cause it to flip around. Although if the stock one works I say go for that one since it's more authentic.

That's assuming you don't like the laptop / pdvd player hinge idea.
 

Luke

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Thanks for all the advice. Don't worry, I'm gaining motivation to get this done, and I'll find a solution for the hinges one way or the other.

I spent a lot of time going back and doing more sanding/painting yesterday, and there are still a few flaws but I think at this point I'm ready to move on. I also popped out that flimsy piece of plastic covering the select/home/start buttons and have printed my own buttons, which look fine.

Expect some pictures this evening.
 
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Thanks for all the advice. Don't worry, I'm gaining motivation to get this done, and I'll find a solution for the hinges one way or the other.

I spent a lot of time going back and doing more sanding/painting yesterday, and there are still a few flaws but I think at this point I'm ready to move on. I also popped out that flimsy piece of plastic covering the select/home/start buttons and have printed my own buttons, which look fine.

Expect some pictures this evening.
PIXXXXX
 

Luke

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Keep me honest lol. It's the only way this will ever get done.
IMG_0271.JPG


EDIT: Sorry about dirty/smudged paint, cleaned it and applied fresh coat:
IMG_0272.JPG IMG_0273.JPG
IMG_0276.JPG IMG_0275.JPG IMG_0274.JPG
 
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