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absolutely beautiful job!

Hello again, my friends. Unfortunately, I have some bad news. The PMS 2 isn’t doing anything at all. I’ve wired the included LED to the PMS and the PMS to the cells referenced from the digram on 4layertech’s website, and no luck. I’ve tried wiring the charging port to power the batteries and...

I’ll try the LED. Thanks!

Yes, the power button is also connected to ground. I desoldered the F+ and F- before uploading that picture.

I wired the PMS 2 to the cell caddy and the power button to the BTN pad on the PMS and then wired the fan to F+ and F- and still nothing. Tried to wire the LCD to 5V and nothing again. There’s got to be something I’m doing wrong. Any help is appreciated.

I’ve desoldered everything from the PMS except for the cell in the caddy and added the fan to the 3.3V and nothing. I desoldered that and added the LCD to 5V and still nothing. Should I break out the PMS 2 and try that?

For a first build you should try the G Wii. A portable of a similar form factor as the PiiWii Pocket will be extremely difficult while the G Wii is very beginner friendly.

The final two pieces of the puzzle have just arrived: both the pair of 18650s and the RVL PMS 2 (the PMS is a last resort if there is something irrepairably damaged on the original BitBuilt store version). I will now begin going through @RoseDagger ’s suggested route which is desoldering...

Haha, thanks so much for your interest! I’m very excited to see the end result as well! (also, minor update: 34 gauge magnet wire has arrived, in case I need to repair any data lines)

I have multiple caddies, there is a single celled one which is what I’ll most likely use for testing because as you said, multiple batteries only extend run time. Will this caddy work?

Some things to assist me in hopefully fixing this portable have arrived, including an 18650 battery cell caddy, 22 gauge wire, a flux pen, 1lb of kester solder, and nickel strips (for soldering the batteries when it’s time to close it up). Some more things that still are on the way include: 34...

Just ask people on the forums when you have questions or issues..

On eBay, search 5 inch 680x480 screen with driver board. The regulators set proper voltage for powering the Wii. I suggest using the RVL PMS 2 which you can buy from 4layertech.com Widely available on eBay and many other sites, just get a set of Gamecube buttons (or whatever buttons you’d like)...

If you are to design your own case, be sure to do it last so you can take proper measurements of all the working parts and then fit them in instead of having to completely redesign it after realizing not everything fits right. If you aren’t designing your own case, ignore what I said lol.

I’d recommend starting with building a G-Wii Rev 2 unless you already have experience with CAD software and 3D printing or are willing to learn. There are many BOMs for part lists and a multitude of worklogs. I’d recommend checking out CalebPikmin’s G-Wii worklog and Sparklebear’s. Good luck!

As stated, the G-Boy guide is an excellent reasources along with the dozens upon dozens of worklogs, both in process and complete that can definitely help. Good luck!

I didn’t even know this could even happen, but since yesterday when I disconnected the batteries, they were both at 0.82V and today, about 15 hours later, I measured them again and now one of them is back at its initial 3.52V from when I first took them out of the box, and the other is crawling...

Totally meant to do that today. Not sure if it’ll make much of a difference now that the batteries are fried, but I can desolder it.

Much to my dismay, today, out of curiosity, I measured the voltages of the batteries again after 2 days of them being wired in and both dropped from 3.51V to a sorry 0.82. This pretty much confirms that a short killed both these and the old cells. Pretty tempting just to take out the Wii Mobo...

Gotcha. Will check this out tomorrow. Thanks for pointing it out!