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I've seen reports that they're delaying the preorders in the US (which would've started in April 9th) because of tariffs... So it could be even more expensive than 450/500 over there. I think I'll wait a few months before buying one. I'll wait for stock to stabilize and see how the whole pricing...

you never mentioned what happened after configuring the correct capacity...

you can still use composite tho. Also if you go for the DD instead of the VGA screen then chances are whatever is going on with the color lines wouldn't really matter.

Ah, that makes sense... Not just the AVE, a positive charge coming from the av port would hit those electrolytic caps on the negative terminal... I suppose it'll work as a last resort but honestly I'd much rather either use the board for a portable build or invalidate the video lines completely...

Wouldn't you need all those filtering caps tho? I suppose for a temporary solution (like prepare the board for portabilizing) that would do but I'd imagine they're there for a reason...

Yes you can, you can get composite out from a trimmed board by grabbing composite right out of the AVE, so you can do it on yours too. I'd strongly suggest you practice first though.

Not really sure what you were trying to accomplish in the first place but you should probably practice soldering on scrap boards before pointing a soldering iron to electronics you care about... And BTW if you ever plan to use that board for a portable, those components are not going to matter...

How did you manage that? did you use a blowtorch or something? From what it looks like, that's supporting components for the analog video out... In my opinion that looks like a pain in the ass to fix, I'd honestly just clean the area and install a video output alternative like an AVE-HDMI or...

Ok... I strongly advice you to pause for a second, stop spending money and read first. This isn't a casual quick weekend project that you can completely wing it by watching a 30 minute youtube "tutorial" at 1.5x speed, unless you have a ton of experience and already you know what you're doing...

Yes, I printed mine on my Ender 3. YMMV in regards to orientation. The default orientation is the recommended one. I printed mine on that orientation to give the screw posts more rigidity and it worked, but obviously the top of the case suffered in terms of visual quality. It's a pick your...

that depends on your particular cells... not all 21700 are 5000mah. The capacity should be declared on the battery label.

maybe having the GCD line twisted paired with GND? I had to do that to fix an issue where the controller would reset itself after a few minutes playing. EDIT: you're 100% no doubt positive that the sticks themselves work, right? I've had brand new pots that didn't work in the past.

you should also set the total capacity to be the cells added together.

what capacity did you set on the pms configuration page? also are both batteries at the same voltage to begin with? (also FYI the LED won't work until you set the correct LED type on the configuration page)

pictures of the wiring and the settings page would help a lot. Not really sure what you mean by that.

Inconsistent boots are more often than not U10 related... Are you using the real U10 chip or the PMS emulation? I used the PMS emulation for some time and it was pretty normal for me to have to boot the console 2 or 3 times until it finally booted... Turns out the wire lenght seems to be quite...

It's actually more like 80, since you'll need to spend close to 20 for the other board if you opt to not use the dd. I think it's worth it.

I can definitely tell you that USB pair is not anywhere near tight enough. Did you twist it by hand? if so, that's not happening. You need to use a drill or a dremel or something like that. If should be, as Tuco said, tight. Other than that, I see a few random blobs of solder near the AVE, a...

means the "grooves" inside the screwposts where the screw can grab on when you screw it. Those are called "threads" and they're not part of the print itself, they're created the first time you screw on them, with the screw carving a path into the post. You have to be very careful during this...

I've got the same errors reseting via safe mode but my controller works perfectly fine regardless. Try resetting by holding A+X+Y during boot. You might have to try this a couple of times.