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I've wondered if this exact concept was possible ever since I first heard of Wii trimming. I am very pleasantly surprised that someone is actually doing it, an absolute chad. although, it cant be a successful build unless you beat holy wars on it. /s

So I have spent a few hours narrowing down everything I could. At first, I started by replacing the bottom battery passives with ones from other Wiis. Even after several different components, the result ended the same: Battery Voltage at 3.0V (TP118) and the same at TP116 after reconnecting the...

I have recently attempted another MX relocation and got the same issue here. When soldered to TP118, the time stayed, but didn't advance. So logically, I tried TP116 and that worked as intended. So I then tried relocating the passives from another board (even though there weren't any signs of...

Afaik the only important passive is the resistor R60, which is a 1kohm resistor in series with the battery (to TP116). There should be several on the motherboard scrap from trimming but it'll be hard to identify on a 6 layer i assume. You can also remove and short the diode pads as thats only...

Yeah that should be good. There's also a homebrew NTP app I used but that shouldnt be needed for a test lol. And yes those are the passives.

I also had similar issues with my micro. I believe the issue was caused by me damaging the passives near TP118. Some pictures of the MX trim and wiring would help. The nominal voltage on a standard lithium CR2032 is 3.0v. It can be a little lower, but lower than 2.8v and capacity drops off...

Backstory: I was recently inspired to make an Ultraslim after I found a 79001 for cheap. I also took advantage that I had an Analog2HDMI (ElectronAnalog) board laying around, so I decided to implement it to the design. This was further compelled by Tito's recent video on this board. So, as I...

probably not, you can buy it from gadget on etsy or make it yourself.

Why not do what's done on the GC nano and use a USB switch to allow you to access the internal SD card through the same cable? It uses the PI3USB221A IC as the USB MUX.

would it be possible for something like this to happen with the acrylic light diffuser and shortstack pcbs (not assembled)? id be interested in a "kit" where these were included. i may still sign up for this later though.

It's video quality is decent. its obviously not gonna be as good as an AVE-HDMI (which inputs raw gpu digital data instead of the output of the ave), but it's much more convenient than having to solder the AVE-HDMI flex board. It's also considerably cheaper. As for latency, i'm not a smash...

its also worth noting that a sensor bar can work with 5v (you just gotta remove 4 of the IR leds in series to reduce the voltage). as for the pre-amp, i'm not sure since i didnt use it on my micro (i used an analog2hdmi anyway). But yeah the boost converter is likely the better option anyway. GL!

If the issue is caused by the wifi not being relocated, then yeah you can use any Wii WIFI module. Although soldering the wifi lanes is extremely difficult without a microscope/magnifying glass.

these new STLs look Sickkk! I noticed that the HDMI mount doesn't have prebuilt supports, what prusa/slic3r support settings do you recommend? thx!

That indicates a short. Are you sure you're supposed to be shorting all of those pads? I did try once to relocate the smd components from a backwards compatible wii to a family edition and i also got a short and one of the components burnt up (i can't remember which component, i assumed it was a...

I relocated the nand on a 6 layer once, I mostly just used a multimeter to probe continuity with the vias and the nand pads. I never had to relocate any resistor, but there are 2 filtering capacitors that do connect between both sets of 3.3v and gnd pins of the nand.

I really assumed the PCB would look like that, an FR2 (or looks like it) PCB with a large COB in the middle lol. Anyway, it seems like all the button traces have exposed pads to conveniently solder jumpers to. As such as long as you provide the 3.3v to the board and solder the wires to your GC+...

Ah okay, in that case you should theoritically just run wires from the switches (metal dome or tactile or rubber contact?) and connect them to the GC+ or arduino or whatever. As long as the board is supplied power and has it's connection to the switches, then it should function as well.

Not sure what you mean, but you can actually use an Arduino to make a GC controller. https://github.com/NicoHood/Nintendo If you just want a sound effect, you can possibly wire the tactile switch to an Arduino's digital input and have the Arduino play a PCM sample with a piezo. I would also like...

Sorry, for some reason the diagram I saw didn't include HV, probably because it's old. Still, digging into the leadframe is unnecessary as the pins are intact (from what i can see.)