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No, each Gamecube game must have its own folder within the games folder, and the iso file within that folder must always be named game.iso The file structures are outlined here https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/setting-up-wii-and-gamecube-games.3583/

No. Take the WBFS file out of the Animal Crossing folder so it's just sitting in the WBFS folder, and that's correct for Wii games

You can run the installer again by booting into safe mode. Hold L+R+Z on a Gamecube controller in slot 1 while the system is booting to get into safe mode

As long as you aren't claiming ownership of the original project, the project isn't paywalled, and the original creator hasn't said remixes are disallowed, you're free to post remixed and adjusted versions of projects for community use. If you credit the original project and include a link to it...

That should work okay as long as you're careful. Those diamond wheels are a bit thicker than the fibreglass wheels most people use, but they should do the job. I'd give them a test run on a far edge of the board first, so you can get a feel for how they cut

Other compact builds like the G-Boy used the copper plate because we had one 35x35mm heatsink on the GPU and an aluminium blower fan on the CPU, and they needed to be thermally linked for safe cooling. The Ashida uses 2 heatsinks: one each for the CPU and GPU, and a separate axial fan for...

There are several versions of the Wii Micro, which one are you asking about?

Sadly that happens sometimes

That would make sense. Glad you figured it out! Btw don't leave the system powered for more than a minute at a time if there's no heatsink on the CPU/GPU. The NTC doesn't always catch the overheat in open air

The latter. It could be done, but you'd be 100% on your own and it would take many failed attempts and donor consoles before any success would be had. Not to mention the the extra hardware you'd need to reball and reflow the BGA chips without destroying everything

That happens quite often, Wiis just dying for no discernible reason

I think they've gone out of production, like the Kingston microSD to USB adapters that we used to use

I would redo the u10 relocation, yeah. Just to be sure

Funnily enough, the ground connection is the most important wire to not be using the wrong type of. Swapping it over probably won't fix all the issues, but it will at least narrow it down. I also noticed that your u10 is blobbed as fuck. I'd clean that up a bit and ensure the 3.3v input leg is...

DustinFisher has already created a modified version of the G-Boy to make use of currently available tech. You can check the unofficial Rev4 out here: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/g-boy-pcb-files.5054/#post-55947 The original G-Boy kits used custom PCBs that are outmoded and no...

I would also ditch that jacketed solid core wire you're using for the voltage connections and replace it with 22AWG stranded wire. Using solid core for voltage supply is very much not recommended

This thread is almost a year old. Please don't necrobump dead threads

One thing I don't know is what the max draw is when all 4 controller ports are engaging full rumble. I haven't seen anyone report brownouts caused by that yet, but it's a possibility nonetheless

IIRC the draw for a trimmed 6 layer is around 10w. Taking into account general inefficiencies and spikes from intense activity, you definitely want at least a solid 15w available even for a simple build like a Wii micro