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They don't neccessarily need to be wired "individually", you can daisy chain the wires from cell to cell if it's convenient. You just have to make sure all the positive wires go to B+ and all the negative wires go to B-. As shown here

Yeah just turn it on and probe it with a multimeter. If the voltages look goodly, you can connect it to the Wii. Btw your battery diagram concerns me. The PMS is a 1S system, meaning all the battery positive wires should be together, and all the negative wires should be together. If you put any...

I just use a solder braid with heaps of flux

Technically all these chips will do their advertised jobs, but I can't say whether the existing firmware will play nice with the different charge controller out of the box. Even with a PCB redesign, you may still need to make alterations to the firmware to enable BMS function PIC is a type of...

No, that's a 4S protection PCB for 16.8v. You need a 2S PCB for 8.4v. And you can run as many cells as you want in even pairs

You're unlikely to find the chips needed to build a PMS1. And yeah even if you did, it won't work with the PD2. You can wire USB the normal way and use a different USB-C PD module exclusively for charging if you can make a PMS1

Sadly due to the global silicone shortage you're either going to have to wait for the PMS boards to restock, or you can use the PD2 to handle just USB data transfer and use PTH08080 regulators with a 2S cell arrangement for power delivery. You could also ask @CrazyGadget if he has any of his...

Sometimes even when 480p is forced, the game will start in 480i. So when it loads the menu that asks if you want to display in 480i or 480p, if your screen doesn't support 480i it'll go black or display no signal. The default selected option in that menu is 480p, so mashing A will select 480p as...

You can try re-installing RVLoader

You can't use the button on the PD to power on/off the system without a PMS. You'll need to use a latching switch on the B+ wire for that. You can power the U-Amp and any other peripherals from the Wii no issues. It doesn't really matter where along the voltage line you draw from, so just use...

The Homebrew Channel being upside down is normal, it's programmed to do that when you alter certain IOS modules. RVLoader alters those modules in order to allow for portablization of the system. By "fixing" that you have most likely overwritten one or more of those custom IOS modules that...

Sadly. Btw next time you're wiring it up: I recommend using middleman wires on the B+ and B- lines, which are short wires presoldered to the PMS, and then you solder those wires to the wires coming from the batteries. Makes it easier to ensure nothing accidentally gets shorted, provided you...

It'll survive

You can sand up to here on the top side Sand past the highest point of that thick line and you'll hit the NAND traces, which will neck the trim and require very annoying magnet wire relocation. Bottom side is already basically touching the tantalum cap, so I wouldn't sand the bottom side any more

0v means probably dead then. If you saw magic smoke, something definitely died.

From my understanding it's basically a drop in replacement for the Ashida. All you need to do is run a wire from the Ashida board's V- pad (third from the top on the right) to the PMS ADC pin marked in figure 4 of the RVL-AMP documents section. You'll also need to update your PMS to the latest...

Try tapping A for 10 seconds after loading a Wii game. Might be defaulting to 480i on launch

If it's the same size as a stock GC Dpad, yes

What video output are you using?

This, just also be aware that some of the Switch controllers use a larger Dpad that will not fit in the Ashida case