Release PS2+ Official Release

Matthew

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Hello all, I finally feel that the Ps2+ is in a state that I can release to the public. The open-source project is located here: https://github.com/mcranford13/Ps2Plus.

This project is meant to replace the PS2 Dualshock controllers and hopefully open the way for more ps2 portables.

There has been some crazy stuff going on in my personal life that has contributed greatly to the slow release of this, so I sincerely thank you for understanding.

Please note that this project isn't technically complete due to the difficulty in writing an application for the Ps2 and getting that application to communicate with the controller. As such, the microcontoller can only be updated from a computer right now. I am still working on a way to update it via the PS2 itself, but digging through the documentation and other such issues will take time.

This is my first time releasing anything major and as such I appreciate all feedback and anything that can help improve it.

This thread is a great place to relay feedback, as is making an issue on Github or a pull request.
 

MRKane

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I forgot to ask: What's the transistor used on the KiCad PCB? When downloaded mine keeps suggesting a through-hole which it's obviously not :D
 

Matthew

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i'll just leave this here...
There is now a new updated pinout that has the correct names for pins (i.e. MISO has been renamed DAT, etc) But this is great! Thanks for sharing this :)

I forgot to ask: What's the transistor used on the KiCad PCB? When downloaded mine keeps suggesting a through-hole which it's obviously not :D
It's just a standard 2n700 mosfet. I believe the footprint should be fixed on there... but if not then the footprint I was using is: Package_TO_SOT_SMD:SOT-23.

The transistor and all passives actually are only needed if you want rumble. If not, then you can skip over them.
 
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Sorry bit of a newbie, do you have a guide on how to build it and how to connect it up?
 

Gman

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Sorry bit of a newbie, do you have a guide on how to build it and how to connect it up?
You build it by purchasing the PIC microcontroller, programming the hex code onto it with a PICKIT3, then wiring buttons up to it referencing the diagram a few posts above.
 
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You build it by purchasing the PIC microcontroller, programming the hex code onto it with a PICKIT3, then wiring buttons up to it referencing the diagram a few posts above.
thanks, will give it a go!
 
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Hey, i hope everyone is doing well in these trying times.
I've made a PCB using @Matthew Chace great PCB and schematic. I know that this project is still a work in progress and i know that the PCB i made isn't better in terms of the placements (mainly cause i started this late at night and only realised my mistake after i went to connect all the copper traces together). The main reason why i made my own PCB was because of the large size the other one had. It costed too much and my goal was to decrease its size so that the price would also decrease.
I also wanted to use this later on in a project that i have been thinking about and i don't like soldering small magnet wires (insert sad Gman noises) together so i stuck an FFC connector on there (it's a 0.5mm pitch one and has 30 pins) this will allow for a much cleaner installation and hopefully a more reliable connection.

First of all though, i haven't tried this PCB out as i just finished it (literally) and i still need some components which sadly keep being rejected by customs as a result of the virus so i don't know when I'll get to testing this.

I want to extend my deepest regards to all the people who worked on this project and to all who have inspired me, i do look forward to making my own professional grade portable (made one before but i didn't like it at all) which is only possible because of you guys.

The required components are PICKIT 3 and a PIC16F18876 UQFN

Why did i go with the QFN version?
It's cheaper and more reliable (no legs to break during transport)

The board can be found here:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/SJRuYODq

BTW the connection for the rumble motor was removed as it was taking up too much space and i've never used (or liked) the rumble feature before.

I also used the Bit Built logo on this PCB, i hope that's okay with everyone (if not then please inform me and I'll remove it).

Ohh and of course the nudes!!

If you look closely at the schematic you can see how i messed up the "assigned tags" be reversing them:rothink:
pcb 1.png pcb 3d.png schematic.png pcb 3d bottom.png
 
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Has any one got Ps2+ working and are there any problems with it, I have all the bits for it now and would be interested in anyone's experience with it?
 

Gman

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It does function however certain games requiring a dual shock 2 controller may or may not work in it's current state.
 

Gman

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Thanks, is that because of the pressure sensitive buttons?
No, that is already handled. Not sure what the issue is to be honest. The ps2 bus documentation isn't the clearest with these finer details of the protocol.

It's certainly fixable,just not being worked on at the moment.
 
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Hi i'm sure you have this covered? but noticed a comment in an old forum that some games need to run at 250 kHz

"And that brings us to the Analog button on the controller. It's really an overclock button, like the turbo button on your old 486 PC. The analog button when on makes the controller's clock run at 500 kHz, which is a chosen clockspeed that lets them send data faster and is used because more data needs to be sent -- in both directions -- with analog inputs, as analog inputs represent more data than a single button press. When the button is off, the controller's clock runs at 250 kHz, half the speed. Most games can simply ignore the extra bit of multiplexing being done and operate in both 500 kHz mode and 250 kHz mode, but certain games were programmed oddly and thus cannot, and need to be run explicitly at 250 kHz mode. For those games, running at 500 kHz mode means they miss their carefully timed window to read inputs in the multiplexer."
 
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Hi i'm sure you have this covered? but noticed a comment in an old forum that some games need to run at 250 kHz

"And that brings us to the Analog button on the controller. It's really an overclock button, like the turbo button on your old 486 PC. The analog button when on makes the controller's clock run at 500 kHz, which is a chosen clockspeed that lets them send data faster and is used because more data needs to be sent -- in both directions -- with analog inputs, as analog inputs represent more data than a single button press. When the button is off, the controller's clock runs at 250 kHz, half the speed. Most games can simply ignore the extra bit of multiplexing being done and operate in both 500 kHz mode and 250 kHz mode, but certain games were programmed oddly and thus cannot, and need to be run explicitly at 250 kHz mode. For those games, running at 500 kHz mode means they miss their carefully timed window to read inputs in the multiplexer."
Honestly, this always interested me as a child and so i would try out a couple of games from gta SanAndreas to open season and from memory they all operated A ok when i turned off the "Analog" button. It always baffled me why turning the analog switch off would not do anything especially when turning on your ps2 it automatically goes into "analog" mode...
and yes i was using genuine controllers but still same thing... genuine or cheap clone they all did the same thing and just ran either way. I think u hit the mark tho. cause what your saying is probably the only reason that button exists. Also i think that since the ps2 was compatible with ps1 games then maybe turning off the "analog" button was critical to playing the games using the ps2 controller; Not too sure about that tho. cause i haven't owned any ps1 games... what can i say i'm young blood :P
 

Gman

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Hi i'm sure you have this covered? but noticed a comment in an old forum that some games need to run at 250 kHz

"And that brings us to the Analog button on the controller. It's really an overclock button, like the turbo button on your old 486 PC. The analog button when on makes the controller's clock run at 500 kHz, which is a chosen clockspeed that lets them send data faster and is used because more data needs to be sent -- in both directions -- with analog inputs, as analog inputs represent more data than a single button press. When the button is off, the controller's clock runs at 250 kHz, half the speed. Most games can simply ignore the extra bit of multiplexing being done and operate in both 500 kHz mode and 250 kHz mode, but certain games were programmed oddly and thus cannot, and need to be run explicitly at 250 kHz mode. For those games, running at 500 kHz mode means they miss their carefully timed window to read inputs in the multiplexer."
The PS2+ mcu has clock speed of 32MHz.
 
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No problem! So there's no chance this has anything to do with why some games don't work?
 

Gman

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We know the reason why it's not working it's just that no one is actively working on ps2+ at the moment.
 
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