Ghosts SSWiiT Revitalized

ShockSlayer

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There's a lot of things under that Wii; a wifi module w/breakout board, 3x 2500mah battery cells, a GCVideo-DVI board, a bunch of wires, part of the prototype PowerMii(aka the one and only ExplodeMii). I'll probably be putting an MX chip, battery, and USB down there too.

But not a second Wii. I'm guessing the kapton tape discoloring the board is causing some tricky perspective. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
 

ShockSlayer

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The continued support emboldens my resolve.

Here's a peek at how I'm managing heat, and what makes it a bitch at the same time.

I've done a lot of different experiments with Wii heatsinking. It's pretty easy to keep a 4 layer from overheating, but more challenging to keep things cool in a confined space. I've tweaked my design to relocate USB, as well as open up some better airways, but it's hard to test in practice at the moment.

Some testing will be done later, and I may even get to add a d.u.c.c. system.

 

ShockSlayer

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no I do not
 

ShockSlayer

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Time to spoil everyone with a full breakdown of what I did today:

Idea:


Preparation:


Testing:


Application:


Polish:

I've developed my custom heatsink setup a decent bit more. Aurelio saw people soldering copper heat tubes or something, so he told me to try it out with heatsinks. The results are pretty baller.

These common stick-on copper heatsinks can be soldered to a copper plate using regular old solder. Not with an iron probably, at least without a ton of effort. I used a pretty big blowtorch, but I'm certain you could do it with a smaller one no problem. Just as long as it gets hot enough to melt the solder and get the rest of the metal pretty hot. Doesn't even need to get up to orange/red levels of heat; mine melted into place within seconds. Bring a pair of tweezers/pliers so you can adjust the heatsink in place, and make sure that it's clamped in a vice that's basically level; once it's all molten, it can easily slide around and be adjusted.

So, since everything gets up to temp and there's plenty of flux, the solder can actually flow up between the heatsinks and solder them together as well. If you look closely in the last picture, you can probably see it. This means a little bit of extra work after, because I had to dremel out some solder that was blocking airflow, but a fully connected assembly means better heat transfer and additional strength. Granted, if you're building a portable right, you probably won't need it, but if it's worth doing, it's worth doing right...with a blowtorch.

I gave it the drop test, from above my head onto my garage floor, and it didn't pop apart or anything. Even after dremeling out the excess solder in between the fins, it's still together just fine, and I don't expect that to change.

10/10 would recommend. This is my favorite part of the portable now.

I haven't actually used this on the Wii yet, but I've been tracking temperatures this entire time, using a variety of different variables; I've run the fan from both 3.3v and 5v, tested in open air, closed case, with just the plate/stick-on heatsinks, different thermal pastes, etc. Again what I can pull off with this limited of a case is going to be slim, but the more I optimize it, the better off I'll be I think.

More updates coming never.
 

bud

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I used to solder those copper mini heatsinks together back in the day. Great minds think alike ;)

I'm going to have to come see this thing soon
 

ShockSlayer

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I knew I couldn't be the first person to do this. Also definitely. You could even come over right now if you wanted to. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)
 

ShockSlayer

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Power button
 

Nold

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Damn this looks so sweet! And it's exactly what I'll need for another project :D.. what's that chip & how much current can it take?
 

Aurelio

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Damn this looks so sweet! And it's exactly what I'll need for another project :D.. what's that chip & how much current can it take?
The big one is a 74 series D-Flip Flop configured as a T flip flop. The small one is a MAX6816 for denouncing the input
 
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