Question Help with Wii Portable

Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
Can anyone tell me why i would not be able to sync the Wii remote to the board after bluetooth has been installed? I have hit the sync button on the controller. And pushed the button on the bluetooth board that is connected from 12 to 13.
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
On the bluetooth, if it is missing the top pins for ground, you just don't worry about those right? just use the ground on the bottom pins?

Thanks
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
on the Audio/video it says... "You can either connect your primary voltage input to the 12vpins on the audio preamp, or use the alternate audio points located on the encoder or the bottom of the audio preamp(marked 1 and 2 on the very bottom of the first image below.)"

I circled the pins in Green, are those the correct ones? or would the 2 pins on top work also? Also is it easier to just get rid of all these parts in this back area, and bottom back area, and just go straight to the chips and run everything from them?

 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
So i started on a Wii board that i cut a little to close to. Can someone point me to what I do with the components on the top side? Looking at the 2nd pic with the red square. Also what do i do about the components under the nand? Couple caps that are a bit high and keeps it from laying down flat.




 

cheese

the tallest memer in town
Staff member
.
.
.
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,758
Likes
2,422
Location
Florida
What did you cut too close to? That cut looks fine to me...

Anyway, since you've already folded over the nand, if you can't put the nand back properly, you can just remove the cap right next to the nand. Then the components circled in the second pic need to be relocated, if you want to trim that part off...
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
Where do the parts in red get moved to? I don't see a guide on here about where to move it to. And the people that have done it. have not included any pictures.

Thanks
 

cheese

the tallest memer in town
Staff member
.
.
.
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,758
Likes
2,422
Location
Florida
The reason there is no guide is due to the sheer difficulty of the NAND bend. I would strongly suggest trying to get the board to work as is instead of trimming more off. What made you think you needed to do all this?
 

Nold

real emulation, no hardware
Staff member
.
.
2021 1st Place Winner
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
443
Likes
1,608
Location
EU
Portables
5 + 1*π
Where do the parts in red get moved to? I don't see a guide on here about where to move it to. And the people that have done it. have not included any pictures.
I haven't worked with a wii, yet. (will be my next project, after my n64p) but google found this thread for me: https://bitbuilt.net/forums/index.php?threads/trimming-further-beyond.258/
I think the IC with the 5 legs could be a power regulator. And you can leave the diode (the smaller black thing, with the white marking on the one side) where it is..

if there is no matching diagram on the web, I would messure the voltage on both sides of the IC with and without the IC, that will tell you 1. how much voltage is applied to that pad and 2. if you need to rewrire, or apply voltage to that area.
might be 3.3 or 1.9v or so..

But I'm with you. It's quite hard to collect all the knowledge.. I would really like a bitbuilt wiki, where we could simply collect all information available. :)
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
well really just because I wanted to, it's an extra board, that i got greedy on and messed up pulling up traces and stuff. doing a rewire on the nand really does not look that bad. not much worse then wiring up the wifi module actually. Just looking for pointers on how to do it. gives me something to do while i wait for few more parts to get here for my portable. I just wanted some info sharing on where the parts in the red square should go. and about the caps under the Nand.

Thanks
 

Nold

real emulation, no hardware
Staff member
.
.
2021 1st Place Winner
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
443
Likes
1,608
Location
EU
Portables
5 + 1*π
well really just because I wanted to, it's an extra board, that i got greedy on and messed up pulling up traces and stuff. doing a rewire on the nand really does not look that bad. not much worse then wiring up the wifi module actually. Just looking for pointers on how to do it. gives me something to do while i wait for few more parts to get here for my portable. I just wanted some info sharing on where the parts in the red square should go. and about the caps under the Nand.
O.o I've found a lot of information in there...

This should tell you how to rewire the nand.. the points should be findable with a multimeter or just by eye... as they seem just to be on this layer :D


Sadly this is the only picture I could find of the regulator (from this thread, didn't search further..)


As you can see, SS rewired it on the right side of the board, incl. two resistors. That means we need the value of both resistors, and alternative voltage spots. (should be traceable with a multimeter pretty easily..)

Would be nice if you do a writeup, when you made it.. would save me a few hours :D Your cut looks good so far, keep it on.
 

cheese

the tallest memer in town
Staff member
.
.
.
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,758
Likes
2,422
Location
Florida
You were close, it's a regulator, two small voltage set resistors, and a capacitor. Again, the reason this particular information is not available (and this is intentional) is because the wiring difficulty is beyond most people's capabilities. If you are capable of doing this relocation and the difficult wiring involved, you can probably figure out what to do without a guide. If we wrote a guide, we would spend most of our time trying to help people who tried it when they were incapable of doing it.

You may be entirely capable of doing the relocation, and since you said this is an extra, go right ahead. I will say the nand is much easier than wifi, just because of how picky wifi is about relocation.

If you wanna relocate the parts, just slice that part off the board and put it somewhere else, since it has the resistors and capacitor all right there.
 

Nold

real emulation, no hardware
Staff member
.
.
2021 1st Place Winner
Joined
Jul 16, 2017
Messages
443
Likes
1,608
Location
EU
Portables
5 + 1*π
Again, the reason this particular information is not available (and this is intentional) is because the wiring difficulty is beyond most people's capabilities. If you are capable of doing this relocation and the difficult wiring involved, you can probably figure out what to do without a guide. If we wrote a guide, we would spend most of our time trying to help people who tried it when they were incapable of doing it.
Good point ;-)
But I'm just tired to search through the web, to find all information I need. and reversing myself takes time to. I love to learn all this stuff, of course. But, well, I might just like to share knowledge :) anyways.. yea, you might be right >.<

A little emotinal OT:
I'm just noticing how nice it is, to be finally at the point, where I don't need to think about the "difficulty" anymore.. When I "was young"(i actually feel much older than i acutally am... <.<) I was always amazed by the skill, this & other hacking related scenes have. Just sad that in the end, it feels just normal :D
 

cheese

the tallest memer in town
Staff member
.
.
.
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
2,758
Likes
2,422
Location
Florida
Lucky for you we've already REd just about everything in the Wii, and the nand relocation is just a straight shot. The only cap I'd suggest removing is the one directly next to the nand itself. As for the 1.8v LDO, you can just cut out that portion of the board and wire it back up somewhere else (make sure to sand the edges!). Just make sure you keep the two resistors and the big black cap by the LDO.
 

YveltalGriffin

First Wii U Trimmer
.
Joined
Jun 7, 2016
Messages
292
Likes
1,050
Location
South Florida
Portables
5
If you're going for the NAND bend, I highly recommend using the Wii Compendium to make a color-coded pinout, rather than trying to use a multimeter to find all the points. You'll have to check continuity anyway after the relocation, but having a paper diagram to refer to during the process was helpful for me. Good luck!
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
I fully understand your point about not wanting to share the info, because of the issues it will cause. But like @Nold I don't want to spend hours back tracking pins, especially since it's been done. I guess if that is the only way, then so be it.
 

Aurelio

ᕕ( ᐛ )ᕗ
Staff member
.
.
.
.
.
Joined
Mar 3, 2016
Messages
2,219
Likes
2,937
Portables
2
I fully understand your point about not wanting to share the info, because of the issues it will cause. But like @Nold I don't want to spend hours back tracking pins, especially since it's been done. I guess if that is the only way, then so be it.
They are like 9 pins. How could it take you hours?
 
Joined
Aug 5, 2016
Messages
47
Likes
7
I count 10 pins on the nand, and then the 4 pins for the 3.3 reg on the other side, that need to be found. I have already said the nand does not look like a problem, but i can see where the pins on it run to. the Reg for the 3.3v line I don't see them.
 
Top