Worklog Unnamed GBA DS-Lite Project

[Diminuendo]

Sorry they've been so difficult man, I though it would do the opposite and streamline your build.

Let us know if you get them working.

 

[Doom]

This project is back, I have four of them. 2 DS "Phats" and 2 DS "Lites"

As you can see the Blue one is done. For the pink one I'll probably print a new front like what Dimi found (most likely purple). The Black DS Lite I'll print the across piece. Working on the red one now.

 

[Doom]

So the red one first.

Hmm.

Hmm.

Hmm.

Hmm.

 

[Stitches]

So the red one first.

View attachment 2551
Hmm.

View attachment 2552
Hmm.

View attachment 2553
Hmm.

Hmm.

Btw, if you desolder slot 1 there's enough space to fit the other speaker there. Stereo bois!

Spoiler: Proof without pudding

Also, not all lites will boot with a 330ohm resistor. I've read that some need up to 2k. Mine needed a 1.8k before it finally let me get to the bios to change the brightness. Strangely, my Everdrive GBA seemed to bypass this and I could play without the resistor, but I was stuck on the default high brightness. The more you know.

 

[Diminuendo]

ew.

couldn't you just put it/them facing forward where the hinge was? You would have to use iPhone speakers, but at least they'll be facing you and not the guy in front of you

 

[Aurelio]

ew.

couldn't you just put it/them facing forward where the hinge was? You would have to use iPhone speakers, but at least they'll be facing you and not the guy in front of you

Have you ever opened a DS Lite? There's not much space in there

 

[DeoNaught]

So the red one first.

View attachment 2551
Hmm.

View attachment 2552
Hmm.

View attachment 2553
Hmm.

Hmm.

I am going to do another one, but i am going to solder a Flashcard into slot-1(DS) so then i can play Snes games.

here is the first one i did, (Sorry for the crap image, i will get a better one.)

 

[Diminuendo]

Have you ever opened a DS Lite? There's not much space in there

Yes; have you ever seen an iPhone speaker? They are bloody tiny.

 

[Aurelio]

Yes; have you ever seen an iPhone speaker? They are bloody tiny.

There's not much depth available on that side of the DS Lite, and most of the available space is taken either by the buttons or by the components on the motherboard.

 

[Diminuendo]

There's not much depth available on that side of the DS Lite, and most of the available space is taken either by the buttons or by the components on the motherboard.

...Which is why I suggested using the space above the screen where the hinge used to be.

If using the git hub model I provided has the maximum height available, more than enough to fit a small speaker in.

 

[Aurelio]

...Which is why I suggested using the space above the screen where the hinge used to be.

If using the git hub model I provided has the maximum height available, more than enough to fit a small speaker in.

You need speakers thick less than ~2mm

 

[Stitches]

ew.

couldn't you just put it/them facing forward where the hinge was? You would have to use iPhone speakers, but at least they'll be facing you and not the guy in front of you

I plan to do something like this with tiny speakers, yes, but I lack the parts at present. This is just me working things out and making sure everything works at base level before moving further.

There's not much depth available on that side of the DS Lite, and most of the available space is taken either by the buttons or by the components on the motherboard.

This very much. According to my measurements, there's less than 2mm between the underside of the faceplate and the main board, and there's a shitton of 1mm components everywhere on the board, leaving around 0.5mm space in the best spots.

...Which is why I suggested using the space above the screen where the hinge used to be.

If using the git hub model I provided has the maximum height available, more than enough to fit a small speaker in.

This assumes we all either have access to a 3d printer, or are able to have one printed.

 

[Diminuendo]

Why are we assuming "we all" when this is dooms worklog? doom has already said he is planning on using this design for at least one build. Oh, and he has a 3d printed part in his last post.

Also, using this wonderful thing called the internet, you can have things printed or CNCed for you and mailed to your door, even if you don't own the tools to do so yourself.

In future should we also assume that people don't have drills or soldering irons?

 

[ShockSlayer]

It's a lot easier to assume everyone is retarded because chances are they are.

 

[Stitches]

Why are we assuming "we all" when this is dooms worklog? doom has already said he is planning on using this design for at least one build. Oh, and he has a 3d printed part in his last post.

Also, using this wonderful thing called the internet, you can have things printed or CNCed for you and mailed to your door, even if you don't own the tools to do so yourself.

In future should we also assume that people don't have drills or soldering irons?

I know it's his log. My initial post was supposed to be a "here's something I found, it may be useful to others who'll come to this thread in the future". I know Doom's worked this stuff out already, but he hasn't shown a printed faceplate. Just a small bit that fits over the bezel. I assumed your post, being after mine was directed at me (because I'm dumb like that).

And where I live, it costs way too much to have something small like that printed.

 

[Morgan_The_Adventurer]

PSP speakers are just barely small enough if you sand some of the plastic.

I'm sorry I never took pictures of the inside.
Also if you use a DS flash cart like the R4 you can play some emulators on the bottom screen (not all emulators allow it though)

Yours are looking really good!

 

[Stitches]

@Doom If you want to make those as Gameboy like as possible and retain the original AB positioning, I worked out something you can do. I haven't opened up a Phat, but Lites have 4 copper pads for each of ABXY. The bottom left and top right are positive, and the top left and bottom right are ground.

Spoiler: Instructions with pictures

You can carefully take a scalpel or X-acto knife and cut the positive trace going into each of the two pads for the Y button as shown below, then use a bit of magnet or Kynar wire to connect the B button contacts/via to the exposed Y button traces. Effectively turning Y into your new B.

Then, you can cut off the small protruding tab from the B button itself with a sharp knife or scissors.

Using the same knife, cut/carve out the guide protrusion in the Y button hole as shown.

You end up with this

It's not perfectly straight, but it's pretty damn close. With a bit of whittling and maybe a dab of super glue, you could totally adjust the groove in the button to straighten it to your liking. Or even just edit the faceplate model if you're going that route.

 

[Doom]

Can anyone extract that model to .obj or .stl for printing? When I import into autoCAD via *.STEPS or whatever it doesn't seem to be full size, which is p important for this model. Thank.

 

[Diminuendo]

Have you tried scaling the model in metric instead of imperial?

I contacted the creator and he said he's up for helping us;

 

[Doom]

Aurelio had 360 Fusion and was able to save as an *.stl. My problem was importing in AutoCAD most likely, came in at about 65-75% despite a 1:1 (or 25.4:1 really) import. Glad the dude knows about us though, hopefully he'll sign up and show off some of his work. Anyway, a Print:

Turned out pretty well. Excellent model, everything looks as it should. Button holes are a little small though so gotta file em down a bit.

The lighter purple you can see in the middle around the screen area is super thin. Going to have to design and print a screen bezel. Might do the same around the buttons for style.

The fit is perf. Looks a bit puffy when pressing it all down but I think it'll be ok come the screws.

Metallic Pink back and buttons, purple front, probably purple screen bezel, we'll see.